Check your top engine mount

I recently changed the perished engine top mount, the one that stablises the engine and prevents it from rocking. My mount was decided worse for wear and had significant free play.

After changing it the engine is definately smoother, less vibration, quieter and gearchange is easier so well worth the £32 quid and 30 minutes required to undo the 2 x bolts (15mm) and swap it over.

I might try it. I'm sure I've got a little bit of a rock there............wheree did you get it from???

Cheers
Peter

If the stabiliser's shot then it puts a lot of strain on the first joint in the exhaust sytem.

Well worth changing, did mine in Jan, they take a lot of strain.
Just watch the washers which tend to stick on the old one, you want to put them on the new one

Originally Posted by Green_Rizla

I might try it. I'm sure I've got a little bit of a rock there............wheree did you get it from???

Cheers
Peter

The local dealer.

Mr C, how old/many miles had your old one done to show the deterioration you found?

And how can you tell it's deteriorated? Take it out and have a look?

Cheers,

Nigel

Mine is shot, I get vibrations due to this when the engine is cold. It is being replaced as soon as the part is in stock.

Can someone give me a part number for this please?

Originally Posted by Ferryman_1957

And how can you tell it's deteriorated? Take it out and have a look?

Cheers,

Nigel

It's very easy to tell if its worn. Grab the top of your engine (when cold or you might burn your pinkies) and try to rock it back and forth, if it moves easily it's shot and if you have a closer inspection you will probably see splits in the rubber.
Excessive driveline shunt, especially on gear changes is another sign and the reason I checked mine.

Get them from EB spares about £27 plus postage should have them the following day, takes about 10 minutes to fit. Replaced mine about 2 months ago, completly knackerd.

This effects all 3.0 engine on all models... please check this everyone as it puts excessive strain on your exhuast.

Originally Posted by Ferryman_1957

And how can you tell it's deteriorated? Take it out and have a look?

Cheers,

Nigel

A V6 engine is inherently unbalanced so it is a case of 'when' rather than 'if'..

I will check mine in the morning, see if it needs doing..

If you can move the mount by hand. It is shot. I will post pics tomorrow night of my fubard one.

Is it just a case of unbolt the old one and fit the new one?

I get odd vibrations on occasion when gently accelerating, say moving into faster traffic on the motorway etc. On inspection I am sure there is a split in the rubber, and wonder if this could be the cause.

Yup, 2 15mm bolts, it takes 2 mins to do.. I didnt get round to taking a pic of the part. If you can move the mount (as in it is a bit wobbly) then you need a new one.

I did mine 2 months ago too. It makes a lot of different since the rubber were cracked.

My Lanny knocked hers out twice, when I owned her.: Powerful and torquey that old turboed Intey' type motor that was.: Tried to get new bushes, didn't do them, so ended up having to get a new stabiliser bar which was from some other model, could of been a Fiat, or Alfa,?? but it was too short.

So, cut the eye ends with the bushes off, and using a good heat sink wrap, trusty ole' Mig, welded it back together at the correct length. Finished article worked fine. Need those poly bushes up there on those stab bars, but I guess they aren't available?:

For the record everyone the bottom mounts are very tough and it is very unlikely that you would every experience something similar to happen there.

Originally Posted by Mr_Caine

I recently changed the perished engine top mount, the one that stablises the engine and prevents it from rocking. My mount was decided worse for wear and had significant free play.

After changing it the engine is definately smoother, less vibration, quieter and gearchange is easier so well worth the £32 quid and 30 minutes required to undo the 2 x bolts (15mm) and swap it over.

Cool, checked mine and it's still OK.. Rubber is still OK.. but the ones in the suspension on the roll bar.. were cracked in half... so changed those... and the knocking noise in the front vanished..

The 166's though had to be changed.. that was dry and cracked..

Thanks for the tip guys. Checked mine last night, and it's rock solid. Two bolts maybe look newer than the third, so I wonder if it's already been replaced at some point?

This is an interesting thread regarding engine stabilisers, as I am curious to know just how many FWD transverse engined vehicles in production use them. All??

It brings back memories of the BMC orignal Mini range,'59/'60 Sir Alecs' babies, as kits were available to effect a repair to the bushes in the form of tapered pairs, centre steel sleeves, outer tapered rubbers, which were a five minute job to replace, and cheap to buy. Does my old memory serve me correct, or is it really going West? Was the Mini of '59 the first production FWD of British origin?

Originally Posted by bazza

Thanks for the tip guys. Checked mine last night, and it's rock solid. Two bolts maybe look newer than the third, so I wonder if it's already been replaced at some point?

Interesting, where is this 3rd bolt? I only undid 2 bolts to change mine, so I'm a bit confused. I'll update the thread to include the part number shortly.

Originally Posted by zulu ferret

This is an interesting thread regarding engine stabilisers, as I am curious to know just how many FWD transverse engined vehicles in production use them. All??

Well if it was a straight 6 then there'd be no need for a stabiliser bar as the straight 6 is a balanced engine. A V6 isn't, so needs some sort of damper.. I don't know about a straight 4, but my 5-pot JTD had a similar damped engine mount, as the 5-pot isn't a balanced set-up either..