help needed - removing exhaust myself

I've been trying to get the original rear silencer of my car all afternoon, but it's absolutely stuck to the centre pipe. I've got the big clamp out the way, but where the pipe on the rear section slides over the pipe on the centre section it's totally seized solid. Any ideas? It's going to soak overnight in WD40, so will try again in the morning, but if I still can't do it then, I'll have to give in and take it to the local Kwik-Fit, which I'd rather avoid if possible.

I know others have replaced the rear box themselves, how have they done it?

Hammer where the join is and hopefully this will release the rust and crud that is stopping it from moving.
It won't be easy but if you can get it to move a bit then it will go eventually.
If you are not going to use the back box again, with it detached from its rubbers hit it with a heavy hammer in the direction you want it to come off.GOOD LUCK

This is quite common. I was lucky when fitting my csc last week that the old one came off no probs. The wd40 you applied might work its way in to everything overnight so you might be able to slide it off hopefully. What i would suggest doing is ensuring you have disconnected the two rubber supports for the rear section and then grab the chrome pipes and try to rotate the exhaust a little side to side in order to work it loose. There is enough room under there to rotate a little.

Failing that, its hammertime. And failing that, applying heat causing pipe to expand who definitely do it but you need some specialist kit. It may be you need a kwik-fit monkey to get it up on stilts and knock the crap out of it.

thanks guys. Have tried hammers and twisting already, but will have another go in the morning after the WD40s had a good crack at it overnight. Then a bit of heat and if that doesn't work I'll have to bite the bullet and hand it over to Kwik-fit

Angle grinder and cut few slots on the pipe where it joins the mid box and then use a screw drier to loosen up the pipe. Wd 40 and all these things don't work

Angle grinder is a good suggestion although I have found the blow torch to be a reliable method along with some brute force.

Another technique would be to cut off the back pipe beyond the joint then cut (carefully) along the length of the remaining section using an angle grinder or a spiral cut using a hacksaw and prize off.

after another crack at it this morning, I gave up and went in search of a garage. No luck on that front (it's a sunday) so will have to try again next weekend. Might try the angle grinder, but I need the car driveable tomorrow, so not sure if that's a good idea for this afternoon, just in case it doesn't work.