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Running in a Veloce

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veloce
2K views 23 replies 10 participants last post by  Cuore_Sportivo_155 
#1 ·
Despite my car being on PCP, I like to break it in properly. For years now I have followed the "let it warm up, don't rev the nuts of it, vary the revs, nothing too harsh but not too slow" routine for the first thousand or so miles. Indeed the handbook says much the same. But the veloce has a TCT so in normal driving it tends to be staying in low revs range most of the time anyway. I read that in some markets the DNA D position is actually disabled for so many miles to prevent excess revs. Clearly not the UK! I drove mostly in N for the first two hundred miles in mixed town and cross country driving, no motorways. Second 200 miles I ventured onto some A road dual carriageways as well as more mixed driving through rural Wales. So I think now is the time to give it a bit more occasionally but I guess I'll have to go to manual to let it rev. Anyone got any better ideas for the TCT equipped 1750 engine?

Lastly I asked the dealer whether they knew anything about the often rumoured "break-in oil fill" - they didn't and just advised first service in a year. At the very least I will do a six monthly oil change anyway. I did think the break in oil was a myth but have it on good authority that Honda use it - so does anyone know for certain? I intend sticking to the recommended Selenia Oil for the 1750tbi which I note is a fully synthetic - and synthetics are not supposed to be the best oil for break in - so do wonder if it does have a mineral based oil in initially.

Oh don't we worry about our babies!
 
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#2 ·
I always use Selenia oils for my baby, but I know a lot of the indies use Havoline oils. They obviously have more experience of a lot more cars than I will ever have but i do all my own servicing and just use the recommended oil. No problems so far with my 6 year old car but at 57k I think I'm a relatively low mileage driver despite last years holiday in Italy.
 
#4 ·
The pure definition of running in an engine means parts are forging together and wear is happening - this surely means you'll have metal particles in your oil or filter. I'd definitely change the oil and filter despite what Alfa say - every new car (and bike for that matter) I've owned has had the oil changed after 500 miles - the majority of them as part of the dealer requirements - if they didn't demand it, I did.

Opie Oils are very good at answering oil related questions if you check their website.
 
#5 ·
Manufacturing techniques and tolerances nowadays, negate the need for "running in an engine"

Oil galleries and such are cleaned to the enth degree with a tiny allowance for particals in the internal oilways and galleries permissible once the engine in finished machined and delivered for assembly. There are no loose edges and bits of swarf to break off and float around in your oil, and even if there was, that is what your oil filter is for.

That said, changing the oil early cannot do any harm at all can it?..
 
#6 ·
Well even with the finest tolerance there will be some wearing in going on but this subject polarises opinions! My current plan is going to be to do a filter change only at 6 months, topping up with standard Selenia 5W40 then get into a 6 monthly oil and filter change starting at 12 months old.

When I bought my first new Alfa (Alfasud 1.5Ti, 1981) out of curiosity after a few months I checked the gearbox level and the oil was pure silver, like paint! Replaced under warranty then two years later I bought a Sprint Veloce and I thought, just out of curiosity, I'll check the gear oil - and same again. A bit extreme I know. There is a lot of useful info on the AMS Oil site too.
 
#8 ·
There really isn't Pete. Machining is toleranced so that there isn't that initial wearing period like the old days. That's why engines aren't dead at 100k like they used to be.

I work in a facility that's was in Telford as it happens, machining heads and blocks for all kinds of cars and super cars by the way. We are currently in the process of moving to a brand new site in Bridgnorth where everything is cast.
 
#11 ·
You got it Pete. We've been developing prototype engines with jaguar Land Rover for 5 or 6 years now. They are just thrown on test beds and hammered for thousands of miles and then stripped and they will reduce the crap that comes from a wearing engine down to what is practically a black smudge on sample plate. We're not even set up for full production and have to invest heavily in washing facilities and meet pretty rigorous standards. Times are a changing. I'm with you tho, I'd still change the oil regiously, even though I know it's not needed.
 
#12 ·
Oh this takes me back, Vandervell bearings......anyway, the advice was 80s era but I called Alfas technical section when I bought my Sud Ti in 1981 and said if I wanted to treat my engine well regardless of costs what would they recommend - Oil and filter every 3 months. As was explained it wasn't so much the Oil itself that broke down but the VI package which they reckoned was dead after 90 days of cold starts. Which is what I did, a job lot of genuine filters from Alfa Day and a good mid range Oil bought by the pallet. Engine was lovely. Unfortunately the Morris Marina Van that I hit after cresting a hump back bridge a little too fast made it all irrelevent.

Now , shall I add Molyslip whiel I am at it? And STP? Ok only jpoking.....
 
#16 ·
Fitted some Fast Road cams to a sud once from the Italian equivalent of Kent Cams - Luigi's Lobes I think. One snapped in half - remember calling the AA - "What seems to be the trouble, sir?" "my camshaft's broken in half". "And why do you think that, sir?" "Because it's sticking out of the front of the ***** engine!". I was working for BT and had access to our Quality Assurance Division Material Testing labs who kindly did me a dye penetration test on the broken one and discovered it had been hardened like glass and was cracking all over. Its sitting on my shelf now along with the bent valve it caused.
 
#22 ·
Evening,

Can I ask what sort of MPG you're getting on your 'running in' period please?

I've heard that the 240 is slightly better on fuel compared to the previous model (which seemed to always get mentioned in negatives on car reviews for having a 'thirsty engine').

My lease is due for renewal in January and I've really enjoyed my 1.4, trying to convince myself in to getting the 240.
 
#23 ·
Well I "think" its about 30mpg, def not as good as the 170MA I had before in the Mito and before that in a G Lusso 2010. I wasn't intending to have a Veloce but T J Vickers kept twisting my arm until after a few seconds I gave in. I love the car, it seems a lot more relaxing to drive normally, the 170MA felt like you had to work at it most of the time though by no means a bad engine. This feels like a lazy big torquey engine, almost diesel like - until you floor it then it becomes something else. As I hit the 1000 mile mark the other day I tried for the first and so far only time a launch controlled, er, launch. Bloody hell its quick. I don't do many miles so reasoned the extra fuel and tax would be worth paying for fun.
 
#24 ·
I would advice to use aspecial running in oil if you're going to change very early. Friction modifiers used in most oils aren't helpful for the running-in process.

Alternatively, you could use a motorbike oil with Jaso MA classification. Wet clutches aren't a fan of friction modifiers either, so they make oils without, or adapted modifiers for motorcycles. Bikes with seperate gearboxes can just use car engine oils.
 
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