What would you prefere mate ? Using gasket seal or risking oil leaks ?
Did the job last night mate. Took 30 mins to fit the crossmember, and another 25 mins to fit the drive shafts - which is my worst job ! Yours will be a lot easier, as you wont have to allign the holes of the brake disks and drive shaft spacers like I did on the inboard brake system.
File names have been changed to time created, so 18-32 means 6:32pm.
I didnt even need a plumbers wrench. Went in by hand
Here are the pictures and I will guide you through :
18-32: crossmember in the form to be installed. Yours will have the brakes on the hubs as well
18-36: pushed under the car. Use jacks under the ball joints of the hubs and lift the hubs as high as possible on BOTH sides. Make sure you have them secure so they want fall off.
This will help you get the angle right for the front section, so you wont have a hard time bolting it up.
18-45: Make sure that the front center mount of the engine is loose. This will drop the engine at its lowest position. Jack up the front section of the crossmember, but not high enough to touch the chassis. Leave it about 0.5cm away. This will help you put the bolts in.
18-46: That was quick !
Bolt the 4 bolts of the front section of the crossmember. Use a normal wrench to begin with. This will help you push up the bolt while you are bolting it, long enough for the thread to begin grabbing on. Clean bolts and threads will make your life a lot easier here.
Dont tighten the bolts fully up ! Remember you still have a 0.5cm gap between the crossmember and chassis. Dont take that up with the bolts.
Check the lower front mount of the engine. That one bolts in place with 2 13's in the center of the crossmember. Allign the engine mount with the holes, and if possible, put those in now, but again NOT fully bolted. Allow as big a gap as possible.
Now, jack the front section of the crossmember up till it touches the chassis and tighten the side bolts, the center lower mount bolts and the top engine mount bolt.
In case you are wondering, the reason why you are undoing the engine top mount and leaving the lower front one loose till last, is so that the crossmember will push the engine up in place, minimizing any stress to the front lower mount of the crossmember. If the lower one is stressed because its been bolted on with engine higher than it should be, it will snap very quickly.
18-51: Keeping the jacks on the hubs, or whatever other supports you choose to use, and with the front section of the crossmember now in place, you will see that the rear arms allign by themselves. I just used a small screwdriver to finely allign the holes, so that the bolt would go in. Once its in, you can give the bolt a few taps so it comes out the other side.
18-57: both sides done