it does smell awful and makes a mess if you're not careful but it does seal things very well, if you have any tiny pin holes in the weld it really does fill it in well.
use this sort of stuff, very cheap and goes a fairly long way coverage wise
does the black one in your hand not want joining with the black one already connected behind your hand?
the one it's connected into is a different colour, has a white trace in it.
the one with the white trace, is it not an indicator one for the side repeater? just it has a thick protective seaf like when they go through a panel.
the 4 pin block, have you got anything connected to the heater motor itself?
not too sure on the 33 connections as i've mostly only done suds.
kev, the in line connector you can see down stream of the one I'm holding is the way it was when I got the car, I have a light bulb moment on the black one, I think it was in the wheel arch, presumably for pad wear indicator, I think the orange one is for the a/c which this car doesn't have which just leaves the white one to figure out.
anyway, just about ready to re-fit the engine and box,
red lead, u-pol schutz, hammerite and waxoyl is all the cavities etc, getting there, slowly
Bit of a set back, wear surface of both of the 16v fly wheels I have is pretty rough, hadn't really paid much attention as I've got a Bonny 8v one, just realised the 8v is very different, off to the engineers in the morning to see if he can save either...
Found quite a serious structural problem with the front suspension....
from picking the car up I was always aware that it was sitting down on the passenger side and expected to find a broken spring, no, if only.
I've found the lower spring pan bearing collapsed, strut top mount bent out of shape and the strut tower deformed.
the pic is the 2 strut top mounts, the top one from the NS and the bottom one from the OS.
now I've got another one and have persauded the strut tower to back within a few mm of where it should be (compared to the otherside) but would like to know what has caused this and what I can do to stop it happening again.
anyone got a 4 hole strut brace hanging in their garage?
The centre part is pushed into outer part by the outer part from spring expansion, the highest point is the centre part. The inner of the turret looks to be flat and you can see the impression in the turret from the centre part. The outer part is not flat, whereas the turret looks to be flat?
I think the best way is to put some plastacine on the black outer part and push it up in the turret, its too cold to try it here, anyone fancy doing it?
Ah now I understand your question, I thought you asked if the weight was on the one center bolt or on the four bolts.
I was clear as mud on my first post
Previous owner may have hit a kerb, that could explain the topmount, when i replaced mine I used a piece of wood and a hammer and knocked the metal back to its original shape, using just the topmount and the piece with 4 bolts as a guide as my topmount was a little like yours.
Thinking about it, if you push down on the outer black part with the assembly loose, the center part will up and out, so all the weight must be on the center 4 bolt part, at least in my mind that makes sence.