hi ye i had the top down to the flots and there was around 10mm of fuel in one and around 5mm in the other float bowl. the fuel did only come out when pressing the pedal but car was not running. i took all the little bits out aswell and blew them with air line
were is the fuel filter . sorry im like a blond
the level of fuel in the float chambers should be higher than 5mm so a blockage is an obvious place to start, but you say the plugs are wet?
have you checked the cam timing?
set to tdc (small white bung near dizzy/rear engine mount, take that out) then take the cam-shaft covers off and check the timing marks. there is a notch in the forward cam housing which should line up with a notch in the cam-shaft.
if the tensioners have stuck wide open it may be possible to jump a tooth or 2 on the belts. also make sure the belts are still on!
when you turn it over does it still sound like it's making compression? if the belts have broken it will spin over at a fast consistant pace, like when the spark plugs are out.
what i would do is this, (if the belt situation is ok)
take the pipe from the fuel pump that goes to the fuel tank.
fit a new length of pipe from the pump inlet to a fresh gallon can of NEW fuel. modern unleaded ages very quickly, i've heard that after 6 months it becomes poor so after the length of time it has stood in your car it will be crap.
i actually tried to set fire to some old petrol to see what happens, defo becomes weak.
setting up a new fuel supply will do 2 things. first off you will know the fuel is fresh and good enough. secondly you will rule out a blockage in the supply inside the tank. there is a small filter on the pick-up pipe inside the tank at the sender unit. this has most likely now become blocked with years of old rusty crud.
if you haven't moved the dizzy then the igntion timing should be ok, it ran before so should be ok. check things like the inside of the cap though, and the rotor arm too as has been said. the 4 electrodes should be clean and have no corrosion build up. if the rotor arm is the type that has the rev limiter on it make sure it hasn't sprung into the limiting stage. the spring may have become weak and allowed the cut-out to stick in position. a bit of tape between the contact points will do for now if it is sticking.
my old coil packed up on me suddenly so don't rule it out, but if you're getting a spark (proper spark, in rhythm) then the coil is probably ok.
these engines are great for their simplicity.
you just need the valves to open at the right time, to get a decent clean supply of fuel, for the spark to happen at the right time then they will run. the fine tuning sorts how well they run.
much better than the modern car that has to monitor every stupid little detail before it will run, at all