Sprint 6C build up - Page 62 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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I love that sound !!!!!!!!!!!
The revs building up are endless

I want a ride as well !!!!
Well done Philip ! Now you can add this project to the list of " What I can tell my grandchildren about"
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Hope a pic pf the Sprint 6C gets on the Centenary Mosaic.
Even without the traditional Alfa Badge on the boot it deserves to be part of the 100 years of Alfa history .
For info on how to submit a picture of your Alfa go to www.Alfacentenery ,co.uk
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That sounds awesome!
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Outstanding! And I thought I needed ear defenders in the Green Machine

That V6 just sounds amazing - now I want to re-engineer a Nova to take an inline Busso V6 with a Lotus/Maserati transaxle... The horizon beckons... see you next week

PS - I still think your front spring rate is bit high

Lauren
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Well just been out in the 6C for a very nice meal at Vesuvios with my first passenger...
- And my wife totally agrees with you Lauren...
- ear defenders and interesting steering!
But thanks again everybody for all the complimentary comments.
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Well just been out in the 6C for a very nice meal at Vesuvios with my first passenger...
- And my wife totally agrees with you Lauren...
- ear defenders and interesting steering!
But thanks again everybody for all the complimentary comments.
see you there next sunday
 
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Originally Posted by Alfasixnut View Post
Well just been out in the 6C for a very nice meal at Vesuvios with my first passenger...
- And my wife totally agrees with you Lauren...
- ear defenders and interesting steering!
But thanks again everybody for all the complimentary comments.
Ear defenders..??? Nah, that is pure MUSIC. Again, congratulations on getting it on the road.
Cheers Rich
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Ya not gonna risk this breakfast club http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/west-...b-meet-14.html in the mornin' then Phil???
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If Lauren speak translated means the backend looks lower than the front .then I concur.
Without having a second look side view ,the clearance at the rear looks less than the original 6c,which may be Sixnuts intention.
Perhaps the weight distribution of engine at the rear has produced thiis effect and to achieve the proper wedge look the 6c requires adjustment of the rear ride height .
Cant have Sixnut resting on his Laurels Lauren can we?
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It's a gardening day today - but the latest comments are welcome.
There are still a lot of unknowns with the car but at present the front ride hight is just a bit too high - I did cut a coil off and had the end reset to compensate for the lack of front engine weight so it was an approximation. However this has resulted in the Spring rate being increased by about 20% so I expected the front end to feel "choppy". In fact it feels quite well planted and rides bumps well.
However the back end - which also had a coil removed to compensate for the lower weight of the 6C compared to the 164, feels "squirmy" and so I am experimenting with adjustments to the front and rear toe in settings to try and see if that can alter the handling.
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I expect the rear camber doesn't help that "loose" feeling, but I appreciate with the wider track of the 164 the strut tops can't go any further outboard. The camber translates into "camber thrust", which is fine when its equal on each side, but go over a bump or irregularity and it isn't. The absolute nono for a rear or mid-engined car is to dial in toe out at the back. Toe-in will promote some stability, but may increase wash-out understeer. Zero or a dash of toe in at the back and likewise at the front is supposed to be the safest set up, with a dash of toe-out if the understeer is getting out of hand.

Its always possible that in spite of the increased spring rate at the front, the net result is still an acceptable natural resonant frequency (i.e. its not shaking your fillings out), but the back might be too soft compared to the front. After all, unlike a 164, a greater proportion of the vehicle mass is being carried closer to the struts. Perhaps increasing the spring rates at this end of the car might help?

This is all fine tuning and should not in any way detract from the enormous achievement of getting the 6C on the road. More (longer) in-car footage please!

Lauren

Alfanauts are GO!!!
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Thanks Lauren
- I've tried with more Toe in at the front- well it's got toe in now, as it was slightly toe out before.... and the N/S rear is toeing in too much I think. Needless to say each adjustment is a matter of measuring, jack up , wheel off, adjust, wheel on, jack down then go out to try and then remeasure

Oh ....if anybody is wanting an unusual bit, I've put a genuine Sud toolbox (Came with the jack and spare wheel) on e bay ref 170502908105.
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Very pleased to see for the moment. my red 3 litre 164 is "parked "alongside the Sprint 6C on the Centenary 80s Mosaic gallery and in pole position ? Time will tell.
I described the 164 as having a powerful and reliable V6 engine .
With a boot spoiler ,its wedge styling is matchless and ageless .
The combination makes the 164 a classic, and a true Alfa thoroughbred.

Sixnuts pic would definitely look more historical with an Alfa boot badge.
I suppose one could term this comment a nit pic.
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I want another video " on the go " please

FLOOR IT !!!!!!!!!
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Just an update following the Italian Car and Bike Show, the 6C starter motor appears to be faulty so I've ordered a replacement from the local motor factors and taken out the old one.
The picture shows how accessible it actually is. Two nuts to release the boot carpet, four nuts to release the rear bulkhead, one nut to release the heat shield. Then six nuts to remove the manifold and two bolts on the downpipe, remove exhaust manifold and then three bolts and two nuts takes off the starter - plus one nut for the main power lead and one spade connector to the throw in relay (which is where the fault lies).
I hate to think how difficult that would have been, when that side ot the engine was up against the bulkhead in the 164!
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No excuse for seized manifold fixtures then

And at least the starter can be accessed without dropping the subframe, which is what seems to be required on all moderns, even for changing the headlight bulbs
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The starter motor has been replaced, the wiring checked - and the 6C lives again so I took it out to the local garage to fill the tank - well it took all of 17 litres!.....and my tweeks to the rear toe-in are improving the back end behaviour. However another problem seems to be a lack of battery charging so more electrics sorting
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As a temporary measure you could carry a couple of spare fully charged batteries in the front to help hold it down and keep you going if the connected one goes flat
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You know Phil, if you havent connected the battery warning lamp on your dashboard, the battery wont charge !

have you ?
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You know Phil, if you havent connected the battery warning lamp on your dashboard, the battery wont charge !

have you ?
As I still haven't got the panel working that could well be the problem then - Thanks Chris
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There you go then

As a temporary solution you can just add a lamp to the circuit in order to give a load to the alternator to start charging.
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There you go then

As a temporary solution you can just add a lamp to the circuit in order to give a load to the alternator to start charging.
Hehe - I never thought of that, but you're right. The alternator warning lamp completes the secondary field windings in the rotor. Without a rotating electromagnet cutting the field created by the stator windings there is no EMF and therefore no volts/amps at the output!

A temporary lamp in the circuit sounds like a good move - you should be able to see the battery is charging by measuring the voltage across the terminals with the engine running. Depending on how much charge is in the battery, around 13-13.5V is good. Anything over 14V and your regulator may be a bit suspect.

Lauren
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You see, I'm not just a pretty face !

Strictly speaking though, most european cars run 13.8 volts. Jap crap run on 14.4 volts.
Most components in the ECU of the european cars can handle up to 15 volts, so even if you get 14 with engine running and full battery, you are still on the safe site
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Thanks Chris and Lauren, I will be working on the electrics next week.
The 6C has been out and about locally but another problem has appeared - all the coolant was lost when following a tractor for a while. I think the problem is having to run the pipes all down under the car to the front so any steam bubbles in the engine block have to push the water in the pipes out through the expansion bottle (which is high at the front). I will try running with no thermostat first to get the water circulation as much as possible - to prevent any localised overheating in the first place - because the radiator is running cool - if that doesn't work I will try a second expansion tank in the engine compartment.
The slow small changes to the rear toe-in are paying off as the car is feeling less skittish (or am I getting used to a mid engined car? )
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Probably a bit of both!

The loss of coolant seems odd, you are certainly not the first mid-engine user to route the coolant pipes under the car (or at least at a level lower than both the engine block and the radiator). One thing I have discovered is that purging airlocks from the system is critically important. Because my radiator is below the level of the engine, but my coolant pipes run along the sides at shoulder height, I tend to get air locks in the front compartment area. Because I use 32mm copper heating pipe I soldered a pair of domestic radiator bleed screws into the highest part of the pipe run. Now when I fill the system I just leave the bleed screws open until coolant comes out of both of them, then screw them shut.

I seem to recall that the old Triumph Spitfire 1275 engine had a similar air lock problem, which BL solved by installing a bleed screw in the top of the thermostat housing, which was the highest point in the system.

I know you have put your expansion tank as high as possible under the bonnet, but this might still be below the level of coolant in the top of the engine, so airlocks are possible. It may look unsightly, but having the expansion tank in the engine bay is the mid-engined way

I'm sure you know the other reason why coolant can be pumped out of the expansion tank, and we all hope it isn't that. Good luck!

Lauren
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