Sprint 6C build up - Page 58 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Glad to hear it went well!

What type of electric car is it, do you have any pictures?
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(Post Link) post #1427 of 1863 Old 11-05-10 Thread Starter
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Glad to hear it went well!

What type of electric car is it, do you have any pictures?
Hi 4lfa_male
We actually made two cars to the "Greenpower" specification - 240 W 24V standard motor, two std 12V batteries (replaced after two hours in the four hour race). Two BMX bikes were cut in two and bolted to an aluminium ladder as the lower chassis member with a sheet of aluminium pop rivetted along its underside. Bent sheet aluminium for the sides and nose cone. If you click on the 6C link on P51 post 1259 then that will give links to the "Bedford Highvoltage electric car" and "Bedford High Voltage Mk2 Electric Car"
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Well our electric car race at Bedford Autodrome "Schools Grand Prix" has been and gone - our Mk 2 car ran and it proved fast but fragile - spending too much time in the pits, so ended up 6th (but we did just beat our friendly rival girls school) Anyway it is now back to the 6C to get it ready for Stanford in less than 4 weeks time............
sounds like a typical alfa

auto italia really in 4 weeks doesn't time fly once the season starts
 
 
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Hi 4lfa_male
We actually made two cars to the "Greenpower" specification - 240 W 24V standard motor, two std 12V batteries (replaced after two hours in the four hour race). Two BMX bikes were cut in two and bolted to an aluminium ladder as the lower chassis member with a sheet of aluminium pop rivetted along its underside. Bent sheet aluminium for the sides and nose cone. If you click on the 6C link on P51 post 1259 then that will give links to the "Bedford Highvoltage electric car" and "Bedford High Voltage Mk2 Electric Car"
That is fantastic, I am really impressed. Good to see some girls into Science.



The cars look great, looks like some real effort has gone into them. A bit of an inspiration really.

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The 6C is still fighting me all the way... I put a push switch onto the starter wires and it fired up a treat. Then I disconnected it (two spade connectors), mounted the switch in the cigarette lighter hole, reconnected the wires - and it doesn't work !!!!
So now I've got to find that problem.
Still I've now got all the rear lights working individually - just need to get the stop lights and indicators to work with the switches and relays - Ho Hum!
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Push on mate, you are almost there
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Sixnut .
Are you using the 164 fuse box ?
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(Post Link) post #1433 of 1863 Old 16-05-10 Thread Starter
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Sixnut .
Are you using the 164 fuse box ?
Hi OFAlf
- no, I'm using the Sprint fusebox and relays as most of the electrics are still Sprint>It is only the engine loom and instrument panel from the 164.
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Ok .But you must still need the six 164 instrument panel connectors as mentioned or have I completely lost the plot.again.?
If you need anything at all .by way of spare loom .connectors .24v instrument panel
etc to practice on ,please ask.
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(Post Link) post #1435 of 1863 Old 18-05-10 Thread Starter
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Hi Alf - yes I am using the six connectors but there are seemingly two earths, and 3 12 Volt supplies! as well as all the other connections - some light lamps when 12V, others when 0V. I've had what I want working off the car but when connected to the Sprint wires it plays silly games........
Still - on a very positive note I have now got the main beams working, Wipers working, stop lamps, side lights washers and horn all working. The engine now starts on the big red button as well (that previous problem was cured after taking the boot apart, by waggling the gearstick......)
However no sign of indicators or heater fan yet
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You'll get there mate, I'm sure of it

... I still dont understand how on earth you started the engine without the immobilizer box and the ignition key that came with the ECU

I was working on a 156 2.5ltr V6 with an autoelectrician friend of mine the other day, and the problem of that specific car was the immobilizer.
We ended up welding a blank chip in the immobilizer box and an equivalent chip in the ECU

I suppose the 164 has no immobilizer as its a previous model

The other difference I saw both on the 156 we were working on as well as from the V6 engine I have at home, is that they " fly by wire " and your engine Philip has a normal throttle with a cable
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Philip , I actually need your advice on something.

Can you please see picture number six on post one of this thread :

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-...ml#post3409041

Now that we have chopped the rear of the car ( pictures of what we cut follow a few posts later ) , we found that by adding the weight of the engine at the rear, we stress out the upper point of the rear frame - where the rear hatch bolts on.

I know its rusted and all now, but we will be fixing that anyway.

My question is - will it take the weight, or will it strech out the rear of the car ?

The rear of the car is now on stands, and without any weight in it, just by leaning on the tailgate of the car it squeeks and moves at that point
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Hi Chris
I am getting closer and have booked it in for an MoT next Tuesday
I too am surprised that I got it started, particularly after the two Autoelectricians had effectively washed their hands of the job! Anyway it runs, steers and stops and most of the electrics are working. I would hate to work on a more modern engine set up as I'm sure the electronics could not be fixed or adapted.
Are you now settled in your new home?
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Are you now settled in your new home?
More or less ....

I'd feel much better when I get my red Sprint at home for the filling and sanding issues , not to mention doing the garden

How bout you come and plant some tomatoes !
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Hi again Chris
With all the metal chopped out, the rear will be flexible but when you put the engine subframe in (or tube sections) it will stiffen up. I have put a lot of reinforcement into the sill sections as the engine torque on the wheels will try to push the floor forwards and pull the roof backwards. I also plated over the air vent holes in the "C" pillars to strengthen them. My subframe is welded to the B pillar and along the bottom edge of the window opening as well - and there is the big beam across the B pillars. I can jack anywhere under the subframe and the tailgate and doors still open with no sign of twisting on the shell.
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Quick question....On my 6C....
The left hand stalk controls the lights. It rotates 90 degrees to turn the side lights on, then another 90 degrees to turn the headlamps on -(all four - main beam??). When pulled towards you it flashes the two inner lamps when side lamps on. However the end button switches the four beams on or off - should it switch between main beam and dip - ie four lamps, main beam and dip, the two end lamps??
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I have got older chrome stalks and they work on a pull , pull to go from main to dip.
From memory my S3 sud had plastic stalks and the button at the end did go from dip to main beam.

Hope my memory is right.

Good luck rsfruitbat
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yep the button on the end does the main beam.
Funny story i took my sprint for a wof (mot uk) and the tester failed me becouse the wipers didnt work the way he wanted. He kept laughing as he told me that the fan keeps coming on. The sprint stalks are the straingest that i have ever come across.
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Philip,

the first 90 degree turn , switches on the small lights

the second 90 degree turn , turns on the outter lights - driving

if you pull it forward it " tips " the inner high beam lights

If you push the button on top of it, all 4 lights in the front are on
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Indicators and hazards now working (faulty flasher unit!) but I still cannot get the outer two headlamps on for the dip beam or the rear foglamps -
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Check you are getting a switch from the stalks. The manual should tell you which colour wire you need to check. I have got a problem with the blower motor where the stalk switch has gone weak and wont carry the current load. Once you have identified the correct wire you could put a seperate 12V feed to it and if those lights come on then its the stalk at fault.

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Thanks RS - I think it is the switch and have just swopped the stalk assembly with one from my "To be 16V" Sprint in the "Big Shed" - however that stalk set up made the indicators and rear lamps go funny I will just have to jury rig a separate switch for the time being
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I think they might have changed the position of some of the wires into the connect or block. Might be as easy as sitting down with both of them and swapping wires about? Might have to resort to the wiring diagram. Interim a seperate switch is a simple solution. Thats what I did with my blower in the end.

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just a thought, isn't the top mounting screw also the earth point for the switch seems to ring a bell
that would cause all sorts of wierd problems
 
(Post Link) post #1450 of 1863 Old 25-05-10 Thread Starter
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Dip beam now wired with a spare switch (well it is next to the panel dimmer switch and I still don't know what it did originally!), rear "thermo-acoustic" screen fitted, speaker panel fitted, two seats fitted, front centre console placed in - still needs screws. 3 more brackets fitted to hold the central pipes underneath (two to radiator, two to heater,vacuum pipe to servo, fuel pipe and return, battery cable to starter and live to rear loom).
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