more oil stuff :)

[BigAl33]

Prolong Super Lubricants Automotive Engine Treatment
comments

[brit01]

mmm. lot of hype comes to mind.

nascar race driver testimonials

[BigAl33]

hey brit, thought you would be first to reply
It's interesting that it does not add anything to the oil, like other oil aditives, which can lead to having too much of this and that and unbalancing the original oils formula, leading to cancel each other out to the point where there will be no anti-wear properties left.

[brit01]

hey brit, thought you would be first to reply
It's interesting that it does not add anything to the oil,

mm if it's not adding anything then what is in it?

Bit skeptical to be honest. I don't mind putting pure additives in my oil, stuff I know what's going in like specific zinc quantities but some magical formula?

Hey maybe it's just a placebo..

[BigAl33]

have you not read through it all?
"Prolong Engine Treatment molecules interact with all of the metal surfaces, chemically bonding to create a protective layer that reduces damaging friction and heat."
"Prolong Engine Treatment adheres to metal surfaces in the engine"
"Formulated with AFMT™ (Anti-Friction Metal Treatment) advanced technology"

[brit01]

Do you want to test it?
Usually you notice the difference in oils if they are significant.
When I changed from mineral 20w/50 to synthetic 20w/60 the engine ran cooler, quieter and had more power(had to reduce the idling rpm by about 150 rpm!! yes when hot)

[BigAl33]

after I have had my bearings fitted and bed them in with VR1 Racing 20w50, I was going to swap to millers 15w 60 cfs and see what that is like and then possibly give it a try. It's a bit worrying trying out something different.
The prolong stuff was suggsted by a guy in the bearing department of a head reworking place on my hunt for big end bearings.

[brit01]

Bearings don't really need bedding in. Just piston rings/ cams and tappets.

Are you just changing bearings?
Any particular reason to go for the Millers 15w 60? Is the oil pressure on the low side when running hot?

I only chose a 60 viscosity oil because we have very hot summers and my crank clearances are on the limit so a 50 just doesn't cut it when hot and under load.
Made a big difference. Can't hear the tappets anymore!

[brit01]

7 hours and no posts!!

Is everyone alive out there?

[Supercharged16v]

I've been posting in the Cyprus Club section !

This oil stuff sounds like a lot of rubbish to me mate, sorry to say so.
They will say anything to sell, and how are you going to prove if what they say is true ?

The only oil that I ever came across that stuck to metal - tested in a specially designed machine - was the Syneco K14 oil.
Fully synthetic, more expensive than a liver transplant.
Race drivers though stopped using it, as they said that it was wayyy to thin and it would drop their oil pressure to worrying levels.

[Crank]

If you talk to anyone who works in the lubricating oil business and mention additives, they will go purple and start to rant. In other words they are strongly against additives and consider their oil to be the perfect blend as it is. Frankly I agree, there is a lot of money to be made out of us petrol heads and I think their is a lot of junk out their which is being pushed which we don't need. Wether its oil additives, suspension mods, low profile tyres (F1 cars don't have them) or furry dice.

[brit01]

or furry dice.

What?? You mean to tell me my furry dice don't give me an extra 2.5 BHP??
ah well I'm just going to ask for a refund now!

Seriously I'm with Crank and supercharged.
Save your money for a better oil.
I'm using 300v 20w/60 Motul, but soon to change to Castrol TWS Edge 10w/60.

[Crank]

Actually I do have some pink furry dice that my son bought me. But to be quite honest I can't say I have noticed as much as an extra 2.5BHP. Maybe thats because I keep them in the boot of the 155 and they are not therefore fitted correctly.

[BigAl33]

lol u guys
That stuff isnt an additive, as in it isnt adding anything thats already there I agree with leaving the mix alone. Its not magnetic stuff either, it bonds with metal to reduce friction. Check out the prolong section Car maintenance bibles: Oil Additives Am i reading what you are reading?
Oil pressure is fine, the guy who i was going to buy the bearings from, who has race prepped a few engines said VR1 racing is not good when really hot in a race engine.

[brit01]

who has race prepped a few engines said VR1 racing is not good when really hot in a race engine.

What does he say about Castrol 10w/60 or Motul 300v 20w/60?
Good race oils for sure.

[BigAl33]

No idea he asked me what oil i am using and mentioned the above.
I will be collecting something from him soon, i can ask

[brit01]

Opie Oils give free advice by email. I heard they know their stuff.
I've heard good testimonials about the Castrol 10w/60 from users here.
In about a month I will be putting this in my boxer replacing the Motul even though it's served me very good so far.
The 20w is sometimes a bit thick on start up I find. 10w will flow easier when cold. 15w would have been a good compromise but here in Uruguay no Millers.

By the way what's the zinc content of the Millers?
For the flat tappets.

[BigAl33]

I'm not sure, i have a few litres of VR1 left to use before i change, surely big end bearings need a run in period, as in keep it under 3k rpm ect for a given distance.

[brit01]

I remember Guy Croft said main or big end bearings need no break in period.
He has 30 years experience of building race engines but everyone seems to have different opinions.

You can't go wrong by keeping it under 3k for a given distance if in doubt.

[BigAl33]

ok, thanks

[johnboy]

Originally Posted by BigAl33

lol u guys
That stuff isnt an additive, as in it isnt adding anything thats already there I agree with leaving the mix alone. Its not magnetic stuff either, it bonds with metal to reduce friction. Check out the prolong section Car maintenance bibles: Oil Additives Am i reading what you are reading?
Oil pressure is fine, the guy who i was going to buy the bearings from, who has race prepped a few engines said VR1 racing is not good when really hot in a race engine.

But why are you worrying, when you don't have a race engine? It's a road car? As for oils , doesnt have to be the most expensive or the cheapest, just change it regularly

[BigAl33]

hey john http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-...ce-engine.html (what defines a race engine) can of worms there
Do i, or dont i lol

[johnboy]

Spend your money else ware!
As we're on oils, I've just switched oil in my jetski to castrol 2t . As two of my mates have been running it in there's and yes there is difference in performance! These are premix high performace 2 strokes! When they went to rebuild there engines, there was no where in the bores!These engines get a hell of alot of abuseSo I'm very impressed with this stuff! And this oil only for motor bikes, but we use in skis with great results!

It's a funny world! If your happy with your oil clap your hands

[LoneWolf33]

I've heard a theory years ago about this engine treatment: because of the bond with metal
surfaces the friction surfaces will be smoother. The smooth surfaces are not able to adhere enough oil,
which results thinner oil film layer. This thinner oil film layer may break under heavy (or sometimes
even normal) load, after that only the engine treatment is between the friction surfaces, until the load
is reduced.

[BigAl33]

interesting lonewolf