Re: Steering rack For 164
If the bushes have gone the seals will be leaking P S fluid.
In these days of 164's occasionally going "free to good home" best bet would be someone breaking a 164 privately.Failing that a breaker or a reconditioned rack.Be sure to get one for your model as there are variations and certainly not off an auto(unless yours is)
A friend changed his rack using the info below, which might be a help.
Put car on jack stands under front body jack points, remove both wheels, rear inner fender liners. With steering wheel straight remove steering intermediate shaft cover behind accelerator pedal arm under dash, disconnect lower universal joint from steering rack as it goes into floor.
Drain fluid from fluid reservoir behind false firewall by either sucking out with oil syringe or disconnect hose(s) from oil cooler tube under car to get more oil out.
IF NEW RACK DOES NOT HAVE NEW TIE ROD BALL JOINT ENDS ON IT count threads on inner tie rod shafts from jam nut to end of threads and record left and right. If you are going to have to use old tie rod ends before you disconnect rod ends from steering knuckles at wheel hubs loosen jam nuts slightly and see if inner tie rod end turn freely in outer tie rod ends. If not with nuts loose rap outer tie rod threaded end housing area with a hammer and spray threads with WD 40.
Be sure rubber boots OK on outer tie rod ends, inner ones too on new rack.
If your new and old racks have the large oval boot on right side be sure centre spring in good shape on new rack.
EVEN IF NEW RACK HAS NEW OUTER TIE ROD ENDS COUNT THREADS ON OLD RACK AND COMPARE TO NEW ONE FOR INITIAL SETTINGS.
Disconnect tie rod end ball joints from steering arms at brake/wheel hubs with ball joint tool/fork. If you do not have ball joint or suspension fork of correct width after you record how many threads are showing left and right you can loosen outer band on inner rack boots spray shaft under end of boots so boot won't twist and screw inner tie rod ends out of outer tie rod ends by letting wheel hub move.
Disconnect pressure and return hoses from steering rack and drain more fluid.
Remove steering box bulkhead (metal heat shield plate) from front of rack. Remove four bolts holding rack to sub frame (front two that heat shield was bolted to needs a deep socket due to studs for heat shield.
Remove rack from left side of car.
Centre up new rack so you can centralise steering wheel on it later when you connect intermediate shaft lower universal joint.
Adjust outer tie rod ends to thread count from old rack as needed.
Install new rack still centred in neutral position
Note: Automatic rack turns to right are not as many as turns to left so with old rack as guide compare rod end to rod end.
If you car is automatic be sure you have automatic replacement rack not 5-speed one or it will turn to far to right and hit transmission.
Once everything back together check front end with steering wheel centred and tyres on ground to see you have 0 tow in/toe out.