Yeah, I have the whole mechanism from the 166, will that do the job?
This is how I got the gearbox out today:
Removed the passenger side hub from the balljoint and disconnected the steering arm. Jacked the body up in the air and supported it on axle stands. Removed the speedo cable. Removed the rubber hood over the selector thingy end (technical term), so I could get to that bellhousing bolt behind it. Removed the selector thingy so I could get to the bolt behind that too.
Loosened the rear bolts of the front subframe to allow movement. Jacked under the front of the subframe to support it. Removed the 4 front subframe bolts and lowered the whole assembly, tilting the whole engine forward, supporting the subframe on the jack when it would drop no more.
Put a wee square tin on the subframe under the PS pump to catch the fluid. Unbolted the one 19mm A/F bolt holding the power steering hose to the right head, disconnected the hose from the pump (24mm A/F) and then moved the hose out of the way.
Removed the rear (right) exhaust manifold from the head, pushed it above the oil filter and removed the heat shield from around the starter motor, then removed the wiring loom and removed the starter motor.
Disconnected the shift mechanism at the two vertical bolts. Disconnected the mounting with the 17mm A/F bolthead and 10mm A/F nut. Odd!
Removed the Allen cap bolt (8mm hex) under the starter motor then loosened the 6 bellhousing bolts on the other side of the bellhousing flange. I didn't remove these at this point in case I put load on the input shaft.
Jacked the subframe back up but not all the way, just so i could get the jack under the sump, and supported the subframe on axle stands. Supported the engine under the sump with the jack and wooden blocks and supported the gearbox by a chain from above. Undid the 2 gearbox mounting bolts. Loosened the bellhousing bolts to almost the end of their threads and lubricated these bolts.
Slid the gearbox out in a parallel fashion using the mounting bolts as slides until the end of the travel. I adjusted the heights of the engine on the jack and the gearbox on the chain until it would slide OK.
Removed the bellhousing bolts completely now I knew it was at exactly the right height and angle and slid the box out, lowered it down on the chain and slid it out under the wheel arch.
Removed the passenger side driveshaft from the diff.
Took from noon until 6pm but hey. It's out and nothing is damaged, for once, apart from most of my fingers, knuckles and knees... LOL!
I have GREAT respect for the man who changed the clutch two years ago.
I dunno if that's the right way and I hope I got it all in there from memory, but it worked for me. As a "bonus" when I could see everything properly at the back of the engine I discovered the steering rack boots are knackered. I can see metal and grease! Bugger
I now have a huge hole in my engine bay