Cruise control

I just recently got my 3.0 166 and ever since I bought it the cruise control has not worked. The little light comes on the dashbord when I rotate the switch to the on position but it won't actually engage when I press + or RCL.

Anyone got any thoughts as to what the problem might be?

Not usre the CRUISE light should come on until it actually engages.

Check all the relays and connections from stalk onwards. Since your fly by wire throttle is working then it must between ECU and buttons. Suspect you would get other problems if it was ECU.
Does light go out when you press brake?
Is it an auto box? I believe manual will only work in 5th and 6th?

The light stays on all the time that the switch is rotated to the on position.

It's a manual box and I have tried in all gears to no avail.

I've got it on my car, manual box... It works in all gears, and the light is ON when engaged, AFTER rotating the switch or pressing RCL ... And OFF when you press brake or change the gear...

A trouble in connections ?

Cruise Control on my 166 3.0 doesn't work either. No lights show at all. I mentioned it to someone at National Alfa day who said the first place to check was the switch on the clutch pedal which can get stuck. I checked mine out and it did seem sticky but it comes apart fairly easily to clean it up. Trouble is it didn't make any difference !! Would a dealer (or independant) have a diagnostic program to isolate the problem ?

Does anyone know if its possible to retro fit the factory cruise control an a manual 5 speed 2.5v6? I know the complete head stalk unit is different and need the switches on the pedals, but what else is there fitted, eg control unit etc? Any help is much appreciated.

My cruise didn't work when I got the car but my awful local Alfa dealer was able to fix it very quickly. Sadly I don't know what he did! (He went bust shortly afterwards and now my car is out of warranty, I use my local garage)

cruise light comes on when you rotate the switch on mine, doesn't go out when it disengages, until you turn the switch back.

More dodgy Italian wiring I guess, if everyone's works differently

My light only comes on when I set the speed with the sring loaded turn-ring, (or recall) not when you use the on/off switch. It goes off when you dab brake or turn off.

Originally Posted by CrispDust

My light only comes on when I set the speed with the sring loaded turn-ring, (or recall) not when you use the on/off switch. It goes off when you dab brake or turn off.

I second that CrispDust. This is how mine works also.

Although, I have had 2 occasions where my cruise control didn't work.
And I solved it on the 2 occasions by pulling up, stopping the car, turning off the ignition, and restarting the car. It worrked again after that !

It's a strange one. And I guess it's faulty wiring as already mentioned. If a solution is reached, please post it here !

Tris

I am mostly rubbish at fixing things myself. I have got my car booked in for a check-up on the 18th October at an Alfa Specialists though so I will get them to fix it and let you all know.

Only problem I find with my cruise, well 2 actually:
1. Occasional momentary slight "jerk" when cruising 80+ like a misfire. Could be engine I suppose.
2. Cruise seems to be able to get engine to accelerate much better than I can. eg hit recall from say 45mph to set speed 85mph the car belts off like !!!!e off a stick. How come my pedal won't do that!

My dad had this problem with his 166, 2.5 V6 manual transmission.

The cruise control kicks out as soon as you touch the brake or clutch.
So I figured that one of the sensors in these pedals was causing the problem, so I put my foot under the clutch pedal (when the CC was switched on) and i pulled the pedal upwards. Voila, it worked. Occasionally the problem would re-occur, but this fixed it every time.

The car has sinced had its engine replaced, (because the oil pump DID NOT FAIL, the oil just magically stopped flowing into the engine), and the problem is completely gone now.

So you can try:
1. Putting your foot under the pedal and pulling it upwards
or
2. Replacing your engine

Originally Posted by prospect

So you can try:
1. Putting your foot under the pedal and pulling it upwards
or
2. Replacing your engine

I like it. I'd go with option two guys !

But seriously, option one certainly sounds good. I'll give that a try next time my CC decides not to work.

Tris

Hi!

Anyone got some schematics on the Cruise Control on the 166. I have a 166 2.5V6 manual 5-speed. All wiring seems to be there, I have installed the CC stalk. Do I need to do some re-programming of the ECU or other modifications?! I would really need some information on what components are needed. I have full access to a car with the cruise option installed (for breaking). All help appreciated!

It should just be plug and play if you have the cables.
El Barto has fitted his and his was.

Yes, you need CC stalk and switches above the pedals - clutch and breake (if they are not already there - mine were).

Hello,
You should only need the stalks. ECU will discover Cruise Control when new stalks will get connected. I tried to check it on my 2.5 without removing the steering wheel. I have only dismantled the steering column cover, found the conector and gave it a try. I don't remember if I dissconected the battery before instalation, but it would be a good idea to do so. After dissconecting the negative terminal, connect new stalks, turn cruise control in On position, recoonect the battery, turn the ignition on and check if the Cruise warning light went on for a while. If not, trun the ignition off, and try once more. If this will fail, check operation of new stalk unit with a mulimeter (no electronics inside, simple set of switches).
If everything will be ok, from this time, Cruise warning light will turn on every time the ignition will be switched on, no mater if stalks with cruise control will be connected or not.

Hello Tomek & Co

Thanks for good advice. I have so far done some testing, but as they say: No Cigar :-(
The "Cruise" indication does actually show when activating ignition.
I have recently bought the full CD-ROM with the workshop manual for the 166 from the web (good stuff). As reading electrical/electronic schematics is part of my daily job these have been very helpful.
First pitfall was the discovery that the switch on the brake pedal only had two pins (even if three wires have been connected to the plug. temporary solution is to jumper pin 1 and 3 (pin 3 is for CC, pin 1 for breaklights ++) in order to see if this helped. No go. I have just been able to locate my ICS code card so disconnecting minus on battery is next. If this does not help I will need to start tracing signals to the ECU. (After once again verifying that I do not have a problem with the acutal stalk).
Thank you for all good advice so far!

Just sorted mine, it was the clutch pedal switch not registering that pedal was fully up. Seems a good place to start for anyone else suffering from it not working, as it is a cheap fix if it is! Just stick a 1/4 inch shim on the pedal bracket, so at the pedal up position the switch engages!

No need for shim, you just adjust the position of switch. Did that today at work, because sometimes CC did not engage, but if I tap clutch pedal it did.

Switch was too far away, pushed it one click in and now it is OK.

Hi,
I have checked the part's catalogue and there is only one available break light switch for 2.0 TS, 2.5 V6, 3.0 V6, 2.4 JTD (all pre CF3) - part no. 7627639. There are no different switches for versions with cruise control or without, so thing should work on originaly mounted parts. However, as You said, breaklight switch according to the workshop manual might differ. Schema says that for 2.0TS the switch has got 2 pins only, while for 2.5, 3.0 should have 3 pins. I thinks that those schemas represents only logical connections, not real ones. If I finally find some time I will try to mount those cruise control stalks and test them, maybe I will be lucky

Originally Posted by El Barto

No need for shim, you just adjust the position of switch. Did that today at work, because sometimes CC did not engage, but if I tap clutch pedal it did.

Switch was too far away, pushed it one click in and now it is OK.

My switch was at full travel, so couldn't extend it to meet the clutch pedal flange. I presume over time/mileage the spring which returns the clutch lever to fully up gets weaker? Is this going to be a sod to replace?

I think it`s going to be a big job - no room at all, but I didn`t investigate further.