Third brake light mod

[paul.o]

While the car is off the road I am planning to convert the third brake light from bulbs to led's as the bulbs are very prone to failure and or bad connections due to the poor design. I will try to take pictures for anybody who is interested.

[klapanciusz]

I think they ARE leds

[paul.o]

Not in my car (2000), they are small 2.5w push fit bulbs.

[klapanciusz]

oh, sorry, it's not the first time I learn something new.. I really should read the whole manual someday

[niallmoran]

speaking if LEDs, has anybody fitted LED side lights and if so which ones fit and don't trigger the wee warning light?

[paul.o]

These are my pre mod calculations

3mm 5vdc (3.2vf)white water clear led's giving 7000mcd and 6500k Luminous Intensity.
(there are ten led's required per unit)

Two options based on supply voltage of 14vdc = a resister per led of 540ohm or based on
12vdc 440 ohms or nearest value to both.

and just so the car could tell me its dis-pleasure of being sorned as of today the battery went flat

[v6junky]

I'm interested in this as my 3rd brake light (164) is part of the rear Zender wing so is prone to all sorts of dirt and humidity and fail quite a lot so I'm fed up having to change these annoying little bulbs every year.

[AndersJ]

I would also be interested in pics.

My third light isn't working at all for the moment and I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram (nor removing the shelf behind the backseat).

[mick164]

..what would be really cool is to add an accelerometer of some sort so that the brake light pulses at about 4Hz under heavy braking in an emergency stop

[paul.o]

The third brake light in bits, you can see were the bulbs have melted the plastic.

[AndersJ]

Originally Posted by paul.o

...the bulbs have melted the plastic.

You brake too much!

[AndyC-166]

I've already done this to my Super.

Depending on which LEDs you source, you might have to drill out the holes in the lens ever so slightly.

The only thing to remember is that once you've changed them, the light will go from a deep red when using the 2.5w bulbs to a reddish orange with the LEDs.

Still worth doing, though, as you can basically fit them and forget them for the rest of the life of the car.

I've done the same with my indicators and sidelights, and shouldn't have to ever check them or change them again.

Hope that helps.

AndyC.

[niallmoran]

what side lights LED's did you get andy?

[paul.o]

Slight change of spec now,

now super bright clear water (white) 3mm leds giving 12000 mcd with 470ohm resistors.

Ordered off maplins today so should have them by mid week.

Total cost £8.50 including postage

[v6junky]

If it works out, think about putting a kit together. I for one would be interested if I saw something like that pop up on ebay.

[paul.o]

Originally Posted by AndyC-166

I've already done this to my Super.

I've done the same with my indicators and sidelights, and shouldn't have to ever check them or change them again.

Hope that helps.

AndyC.

Lets hope he tells us, anyway parts due Tuesday so pics soon.

[AndyC-166]

Sorry for not replying guys......

What is it exactly that you want to know?

AndyC.

[paul.o]

type, price , where from and any problems

[Johnniek]

I bought some LED front side light bulbs with four forward facing LEDs. Found that with HIDs fitted the sidelights looked more yellow than white.. And they were a bit dim, the headlight design relies on light being reflecting across the reflector.. the LED's were bright but only directly forward.. have got some 'bright white' halogen sides to see if they work any better

[paul.o]

Got the delivery today from maplins but they only sent one led! Talked to there customer services and are sending the balance out tomorrow.

[paul.o]

I ended up with
5mm 5vdc (3.2vf)white water clear led's giving 12000mcd and 6500k Luminous Intensity.
(there are ten led's required per unit)

Supply voltage of 13.80vdc = a resister per led of 540ohm

Job difficulty 2 out 10

Fiddle factor 7 out 10

Tools required - temperature controllerd soldering iron and solder.
small side cutting pliers
Drill with a 5mm drill bit (to open up the holes in the plastic)

The metal rails in the fitting make it a straight foreword job.

The only strange thing was that I wanted to check which metal rail was the positive one before starting and therefore attached the unit back on the car switched the ignition and started the car on and checked with a multimeter and noticed there was 2.5volt always present which went to 13.8 when the brake pedal was pressed.

When I attached the finshed led coverted brake light and fitted everything back, all the led's glow ever so slightly due to this small 2.5 voltage but only when the ignition is on, so this should'nt drain the battery.

[v6junky]

Great stuff, will pop into my local electrical supplier and give myself something to do on yet another wet weekend (whoever said Spain was always sunny hasn't been living round my neck of the woods for the last two months!!!!).

Is the resistor simply soldered inline onto the positive leg of the led and then to the positive terminal/base on the circuit board?

[paul.o]

Yes, cut the positive leg of led about down to 4mm then bend one leg of the resistor at 90 degress and cut to 4mm then solder to it. Lay the resistor on the track (may help with any heat) Note: the brake light is slightly thinnner at both ends so you need to adjust the legs to 3/4mm so they all sit center to the light fitting. Take the red lens off as well so you can see if they are all sitting correctly.

It will be interesting to see if your leds glow slighly too: