Swirl flaps How To and MAF clean How To anywhere? 159 1.9 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Swirl flaps How To and MAF clean How To anywhere? 159 1.9

Still working to solve problem and working through the list of jobs that should solve my 1.9Ti which is barely drivable at the moment.

I'm looking for a guide or how to on checking and replacing the swirl valves. I have the black plastic type of inlet manifold and I'm not sure where the swirl valves are. Underneath is all I have read but I'm still struggling to see them. Any pictures or a guide most appreciated.

Also a guide or how to on cleaning the MAF so I can rule that problem out also. I want to do a thorough clean, so if they is a better way than just using carb cleaner spray please help.

Last job will be a DPF clean or drill out. Will do my homework more on this when its last thing to do. Gona do all the sensors first. Already done EGR few weeks ago, but gona check it again. How do I know or how do I check if I have any component that's faulty even after cleaning were the only option is a new part (this question in relation to the normal parts, MAF, EGR, MAP, BOOST SENSOR etc)? Will a diagnostic show these normally as iv had one done and no fault of error codes showing.

2009 Alfa 159 Ti 1.9 JTDM (red)

● M32 gearbox rebuild (within 1000miles of purchase, replaced bearings and clutch)
● Eibach pro spring replacement (all round) due to 2 failures (front and rear drivers side)
● BREMBO discs and pads all around replaced (courtesy of alfasportiva)

Wish I bought a 2.4.
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(Post Link) post #2 of 410 Old 11-01-16 Thread Starter
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Just removed MAP, unfortunately the inserted part of it that is inside the manifold was jammed tight and it snapped on removal. Luckily the sensor is intact and I could pry the remains out with a flat head driver. Should b able to DIY it back into place. Sensor was filthy.

I removed and opened the boost sensor at front of engine bay. I need confirmation that just opening where the little filter is, is all that's needs checked. Didn't seem to be very dirty.

Also removed EGR. Looks as expected after I cleaned it few weeks ago. Lightly sooted. Solenoid I'm not sure how to test. Was not stuck but not sure if it could b faulty. Any advice how to test it correctly appreciated.

Removed throttle body, first time iv done that. Will give it a good clean. I opened the electrical mechanism of it and I'm unsure if the black fluid or grease is a lubricant for the mechanism or if it is a contaminant from spaying egr cleaner around the throttle body a few months ago. I'll try and attack a picture.

In the process I also took off the bracket that holds the throttle body and EGR as I could see a soot build up inside. The inners of that are completely clogged with soot. But my fear looking at how bad that is, is how much muck is inside the manifold itself. Is this something that will need removed and cleaned or is there anything else that can be done to remove the soot build up inside?
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You've summed up exactly the things I was planning too do next weekend. So I'm following, extra info is always welcome.
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the later pastic type manifolds fail and the swirl flaps which are made of metal fall into the engine I wouldn't waste my time trying to clean the manifold out just replace it
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First 2 images EGR removed today, been cleaned few weeks ago, using partial blanking plates. Does this look normal with amount of soot residue already?

3rd image is the throttle body needing just alight clean. But 4th image is inside the electronics n mech n just wondered whether the black oily substance should b there?

5th image is my broken MAP sensor but have an easy fix planned.

6th image is then the EGR and throttle body bracket which will get be most attention on cleaning. Manifold does not look to healthy, how can I clean that? Remove or not?
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Originally Posted by alfaracer97 View Post
the later pastic type manifolds fail and the swirl flaps which are made of metal fall into the engine I wouldn't waste my time trying to clean the manifold out just replace it
Where are the swirl valves on the plastic manifold. Are they inside and the only way to get at them to remove the manifold? Manifold look possible to remove by myself but alittle more complicated than what i have done so far. Anyone done this?

New one 384 from Alfa workshop :flushed:.
Looks like a few extras to it that expected. MAP sensor which retail 120 on there own for the genuine Bosch one. Are the swirls valves and everything complete in a setup like this? Cleaning or repairing what I have seems more my budget, even if it's a short term fix.

All advice and comments really appreciated as usual.
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Last edited by Resolution; 11-01-16 at 18:18.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Resolution View Post
Where are the swirl valves on the plastic manifold. Are they inside and the only way to get at them to remove the manifold? Manifold look possible to remove by myself but alittle more complicated than what i have done so far. Anyone done this?

New one 384 from Alfa workshop :flushed:.
Looks like a few extras to it that expected. MAP sensor which retail 120 on there own for the genuine Bosch one. Are the swirls valves and everything complete in a setup like this? Cleaning or repairing what I have seems more my budget, even if it's a short term fix.

All advice and comments really appreciated as usual.
You can remove the swirl flaps from the manifold and re-fit it (with a new gasket, cambelt kit etc).
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Originally Posted by Pud237 View Post

You can remove the swirl flaps from the manifold and re-fit it (with a new gasket, cambelt kit etc).
Still not sure where these swirl flaps are? Can anyone explain this from the image iv attached of the new manifold.

Cambelt kit? Parts of the cam belt are involved in removing the manifold?
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They're in the metal part. Once you've got the manifold off the engine, taking the swirl flaps out is easy. Getting the manifold off the engine is one of my least favourite jobs. You need to remove the fuel pump to get the manifold off. The easiest way is to just remove the cambelt and remove the fuel pump pulley but it is also possible to bolt the fuel pump pulley to the fuel pump support bracket and then remove the fuel pump but its awkward.
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They're in the metal part. Once you've got the manifold off the engine, taking the swirl flaps out is easy. Getting the manifold off the engine is one of my least favourite jobs. You need to remove the fuel pump to get the manifold off. The easiest way is to just remove the cambelt and remove the fuel pump pulley but it is also possible to bolt the fuel pump pulley to the fuel pump support bracket and then remove the fuel pump but its awkward.
Read that a few times, does sound awkward
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How affective is carb cleaner if I wasn't to remove the manifold and what is the best stuff to use? Or is there anything else on the market that would be better for the job?
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Even my paraffin wash tank takes hours to have any effect on the carbon buildup unfortunately, I don't think carb cleaner sparyed inside the manifold will do the trick (plus it'll detonate)
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Throttle body, EGR & mounting bracket all cleaned and temporary assembled. Extremely messy job. 1 tin of carb cleaner used but egr was already clean so would recommend 2 tins at least. A stainless steel sink best to clean these components in, but put a splash guard up. A small wire brush, a tooth brush, an old butter knife (ideal to get into deep areas to pick out carbon build up), some cleaning rags and rubber gloves. Carb spray, scrub, pick, rinse and repeat as many times as necessary. Obviously avoid water on any electrical parts. Dry inside and out, best left on heater to make sure all water droplets removed before fitting back to vehicle. Hope this helps anyone in the mood for a spring clean.
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Even my paraffin wash tank takes hours to have any effect on the carbon buildup unfortunately, I don't think carb cleaner sparyed inside the manifold will do the trick (plus it'll detonate)
Just watched someone with a removed alloy intake manifold, cover it inside and out with over cleaner (mr muscle) left a few hours, power washed out and repeated and it did the trick nicely. Just do not know if using a over cleaner is possible on the plastic type manifold. Obviously only possible on a removed manifold.

Your paraffin method, does this complete remove the carbon build up?
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No, parrafin didn't work. I tried it once for a few hours with the tank on and agitater switched on too, didn't get it much cleaner. The oil/soot mix is usually pretty hard and resists fluids well.

Karcher does the trick though.
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Looks like I'm gonna have to go down the manifold being removed to do the job right. Can u list, if possible, exactly what parts are required to be replaced so I can put my shopping list together please. Gaskets etc like you touched on before.

Is there anything special required to be done to remove fuel system parts. Depressurise for example and how is this done?
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Just read oven cleaner should not affect plastic

Actually mixed reports on that information. Great

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Nice read, thank you. Looks like metal manifold there. Is it similar removal on the plastic version. Didn't realise you a autolusso person
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be careful removing the swirl flaps all together as they are there for a reason ! In a typical implementation the flaps will be closed at idle speed, creating additional turbulence in the intake. As engine speed increases, the flaps are gradually opened until, at around 2,000 rpm, they are parallel to the airflow and present virtually no resistance. Their purpose is to ensure that the air entering the cylinder is sufficiently turbulent for good fuel-air mixing even at low engine speeds. This aids in reducing certain toxic emissions and also improve low-end power and torque.
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Nice read, thank you. Looks like metal manifold there. Is it similar removal on the plastic version. Didn't realise you a autolusso person
Its basically the same job to remove the metal or plastic manifold. If you have a metal manifold, easiest solution do away with the swirl flaps is to swap it out for a metal CF3 manifold. If you have the plastic manifold, the swirl flaps can easily be removed.

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Originally Posted by alfaracer97 View Post
be careful removing the swirl flaps all together as they are there for a reason ! In a typical implementation the flaps will be closed at idle speed, creating additional turbulence in the intake. As engine speed increases, the flaps are gradually opened until, at around 2,000 rpm, they are parallel to the airflow and present virtually no resistance. Their purpose is to ensure that the air entering the cylinder is sufficiently turbulent for good fuel-air mixing even at low engine speeds. This aids in reducing certain toxic emissions and also improve low-end power and torque.
Thats all correct, until one of them drops off... I wouldn't rely on those two piddly little spot welds on the spindles forever.
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I have the plastic manifold so can not see them. Only once I remove the manifold I will see. Do they come out with the manifold or are they still left and need to be removed separately?

Are they exactly the same as on the alloy manifold as I'd like to order them off eBay before I start removing stuff? Iv been looking at the X8R swirl valve rod repair kit which has 4 of the brass/metal bearing bushes.
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I have the plastic manifold so can not see them. Only once I remove the manifold I will see. Do they come out with the manifold or are they still left and need to be removed separately?

Are they exactly the same as on the alloy manifold as I'd like to order them off eBay before I start removing stuff? Iv been looking at the X8R swirl valve rod repair kit which has 4 of the brass/metal bearing bushes.
The flaps are in the metal part of your manifold, which will come off either with the plastic part or separately, makes little difference. You don't need to order anything to de-flap the manifold, just an inlet manifold gasket for re-assembly. Although if it were me I would also order a cambelt kit & waterpump and do both jobs at the same time
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Spoke to X8R who make the metal bearings for the the swirl flaps and they are unaware if they will fit the plastic manifold version. ? Only way is to remove intake manifold and measure up to see if they fit.

Spoke to Autolusso for advice even though they too far away from me to go to. Guy I spoke to said he only recommends blanking off the EGR completely and removing swirl flaps completely and remapping it to fix issue and to eradicate future problem coming back. Sounds good but 300+ for remap. Can remap be done yourself or is a specialist the only option?

I know nothing about remapping so I'm unaware of the options, if there are different type of remaps etc. Any knowledge would've great please.
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Deflapping, so completely removing the flaps and bearing rod etc you mean. Iv seen blanking bushes online, are these not required? Will removing them bring up the EML or is having a remap required? If remap required for swirl flap removal what would the affects be other than having an engine management light on the dash, as I may not be able to to the remap straight away?
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