Swirl flaps How To and MAF clean How To anywhere? 159 1.9 - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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After all iv done so far and everything I have found out, I need to ask a blonde question. Where is the MAF sensor so I can clean it? Im guessing it is somewhere between the air filter, which to my knowledge as iv not serviced it yet, is drivers side behind front fog light, which connects all the way upto the throttle body. Can anyone be kind enough to point me in the correct direction? Thanks
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As far as I know the aftermarket blanking bushes are all for the all-metal manifold which has an external linkage to operate the flaps. The later plastic-metal manifold has the actuation stuff hidden under a plastic cover. I think it's normal to weld them, but it should be possible to tap them and use a bolt with Loctite to blank the spindle holes.

Much as I would prefer to keep swirl flaps, the plastic-metal manifold is a hand-grenade of a design. The problem is the top bearings for the flap spindles, which simply wear out and allow the flaps to jam against the side of the port. Which fatigues the welds, then the flaps drop off. Just yesterday I took my inlet off, hoping to pre-empt failure. The car (147 Sport Q2) is 78k.

It's an awkward job, with a lot of dismantling, although the plastic plenum chamber makes it easier than the old metal one-piece. It can be removed once the manifold nuts are undone (plus Allan bolts), so you can see and get at the metal manifold part, and remove studs to allow it to come out.


No such luck, two are missing. One, I am sure, is jammed in the head, but I don't know where the other has gone. So I now have to take off the cylinder head

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ijuex7eua7...01-11.jpg?dl=0
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Knowing what I know I definitely what the swirl flaps gone. I just need to know, if I removed them, and keep the partical egr blanking plates for the moment:-

? Will I need a remap or not?
? Will I get an eml displayed?
? If a remap required and I do not do it straight away, will there be and performance issues?
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If you remove the swirls but leave EGR vavle operational then you will not need a remap and you shouldn't get an engine light displayed (leave the swirl flap operating motor plugged in) but you might notice a drop in low end torque especially at part throttle when the EGR valve is open. You can get the EGR blocked off fully and mapped out at Autolusso for 150 which perks the engine up a bit and makes it feel a bit more responsive again.
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There was a metal plate for the plastic manifold with the flaps removed and the holes welded up for 50 last week, I dont think it sold.



Here. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1218542453...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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There was a metal plate for the plastic manifold with the flaps removed and the holes welded up for 50 last week, I dont think it sold.



Here. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1218542453...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Great find, don't know how on earth you came across that one, well done. Is the manifold exactly the same on the 159 as the 147?
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Started the fun manifold removal today. Come to a hult as I started unprepared not having everything I need.

On a great thread by "pubsinger", there is a lot of useful information to help although his manifold is the alloy type.

His part list is

1 x Manifold = 55210201
1 x Gasket = 46816020
1 x Actuator = 55205127
1 x Manifold/Actuator link rod = 71740361
1 x Fuel Pump pulley bolt = 73500821
1 x Pump shaft Woodruff key 4mm(W) x 16mm(L) x 6.5mm (H)

I believe all I need is the gasket and fuel pump pulley bolt, although he quotes one bolt, but correct me if I'm wrong, the photograph he has uploaded has two installed. Do I need two bolts? Fiat dealer said I do not need a woodruff key, he said the fuel pump I have is a different design. And I'm cleaning my manifold which is why I need nothing else.

Again, do I need two fuel pump pulley bolts?
Also what size is the large nut attaching the pulley to fuel pump?
How to you rotate pulley to line up pulley bolt holes to secure it in place? (Is it just with a ratchet on the big nut, will it rotate with ease?
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Hi, do you mean the fuel pump mounting stud.?
I removed it by locking a few nuts on it and then refitted it, you dont need to replace it.
The fuel pump nut is a 24mm and loosen it before you take the old timing belt off and when you refit it use a drop of loctite and dont overtighten it as you can crack the pulley I think its 50Nm.
The fuel pump will turn by hand and as it is just a pressure pump isnt timed.
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Hi, do you mean the fuel pump mounting stud.?
I removed it by locking a few nuts on it and then refitted it, you dont need to replace it.
The fuel pump nut is a 24mm and loosen it before you take the old timing belt off and when you refit it use a drop of loctite and dont overtighten it as you can crack the pulley I think its 50Nm.
The fuel pump will turn by hand and as it is just a pressure pump isnt timed.
I think there might be a misunderstanding. I'm trying to take the pump off without touching the timing belt, hence making sure the pulley stays where it is. From 'pubsingers' thread started a few years back, it's how he did it, and his picture that iv attached above he has locked the pulley with a bolt which is a genuine Alfa part. But in his picture I'm sure he has two fitted. Can anyone confirm if you need two bolts?

I'm not replacing anything, just moving the pump out of the way to get the intake manifold off.

With everything as it should be with the timing belt, and all in place and connected up, how can I rotate/move the belt so that I can line up the fuel pump pulley so I can get the locking bolt in place?
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Two bolts would lock it up better than one. I can't see any genuine Alfa bolts used for locking the pump pulley to the supporting bracket on either the fuel pump page or the timing belt assembly page on ePer. I think just any old bolt the right length/thread will do. For what its worth though unless your belt is pretty new I'd just change it all now while you've got it apart, you're halfway there already.
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Ah yes, sorry, I used the bolts from the belt cover to hold the pulley in place when I did mine, and yes you use 2 bolts, turn the engine via the crank pulley, not the cam untill the 2 holes in the pulley line up with the threaded holes in the pump bracket, but be aware at this position no other marks line up and nore does the timing tools fit so you need to make your own marks with tipek etc so you know nothing has jumped during the work.

But I agree with Pud about the belt, unless its just been done for less than 100 its worth putting a new belt etc on it.

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Ah sorry, I used the bolts from the belt cover to hold the pulley in place when I did mine.
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Ah sorry, I used the bolts from the belt cover to hold the pulley in place when I did mine.
Thanks again great advice. Here I was think I had to order sumthing when I don't. Lol. The cam belt is very new so it will be staying. But I'm glad I know how easy things around there are to get at. Wasted a day though, could of had everything off today if I knew that, doh. At least I'm learning. Thanks again chaps.
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Just to add at this stage of what iv done so far, it wasn't mentioned in the thread I read about removing the manifold, but I also had to remove the oil filter housing and bracket to get at all the nuts I could. Again mine is the plastic inlet manifold so I do not know if this is the same as the alloy type.
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The vacuum oil separator thing (looks like an oil filter, but isn't) on the back of the engine has to come off, yes, and it is the most awkward part of the job since the 3 bolts are so inaccessible. However the top n/s and lower 'bolt holes' on the separator mounting are in fact slots, so you only need to fully remove the o/s bolt which is easier to get at. Still awkward.

I used 2 of the ~30mm Allan head bolts that hold the plastic plenum part of the manifold onto the alloy part to lock the high pressure fuel pump pulley to its bracket, they are the perfect size.

You can see more info and where I am with this in the 'swirl flap paranoia' thread. The good news is that the plastic CF4 manifold is somewhat easier to take off than the one-piece alloy, by separating the plastic and metal parts. The bad news is that I thought I was doing preventative maintenance on a car that was new to me, but I have lost 2 swirl flaps and lifting the cylinder head now looks inevitable. One flap is definitely trapped in an inlet port, the other I don't know but hope is also in there. The only basis for optimism is that the motor was running fine so I've no reason to expect a mashed piston, damaged valves and combustion chamber.
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-...-paranoia.html (Swirl flap paranoia)

PS I was expecting a woodruff key when removing the HP fuel pump and had a cloth and magnet in place to prevent losing it when I removed the pump. Alfa had evidently changed the design by 2008, there is now a roll pin which stays in place in the pump taper, instead of a loose key getting dropped and lost.

Pic shows my metal part of the manifold and actuator. Flaps for #2 and #3 are missing, those are just the spindles. The rack and pinion mechanism that works the flaps is beneath the flat plastic cover along the base of the manifold.
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Last edited by halftone; 17-01-16 at 02:36. Reason: Extra info
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The vacuum oil separator thing (looks like an oil filter, but isn't) on the back of the engine has to come off, yes, and it is the most awkward part of the job since the 3 bolts are so inaccessible. However the top n/s and lower 'bolt holes' on the separator mounting are in fact slots, so you only need to fully remove the o/s bolt which is easier to get at. Still awkward.

I used 2 of the ~30mm Allan head bolts that hold the plastic plenum part of the manifold onto the alloy part to lock the high pressure fuel pump pulley to its bracket, they are the perfect size.

You can see more info and where I am with this in the 'swirl flap paranoia' thread. The good news is that the plastic CF4 manifold is somewhat easier to take off than the one-piece alloy, by separating the plastic and metal parts. The bad news is that I thought I was doing preventative maintenance on a car that was new to me, but I have lost 2 swirl flaps and lifting the cylinder head now looks inevitable. One flap is definitely trapped in an inlet port, the other I don't know but hope is also in there. The only basis for optimism is that the motor was running fine so I've no reason to expect a mashed piston, damaged valves and combustion chamber.
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-...-paranoia.html (Swirl flap paranoia)

PS I was expecting a woodruff key when removing the HP fuel pump and had a cloth and magnet in place to prevent losing it when I removed the pump. Alfa had evidently changed the design by 2008, there is now a roll pin which stays in place in the pump taper, instead of a loose key getting dropped and lost.

Pic shows my metal part of the manifold and actuator. Flaps for #2 and #3 are missing, those are just the spindles. The rack and pinion mechanism that works the flaps is beneath the flat plastic cover along the base of the manifold.
Crap, it's not the oil filter, doh! Yet another thing learnt. Although I'm glad u said removing it is one of the most awkward job as I had it off yesterday and I'm fairly happy it caused little stress.

Once I get this all off, cleaned, modded and put back together. I'm gona have to look for the oil filter lol. I'm more used to seeing metal case design oil filters. Easier to see.

Iv been told there is no woodruff key in mine, let's hope that's true.

Good luck with yours too.
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Yes, de-flapping = remove the flaps, spindles, plastic bearings, and rack and pinion mechanism for operating the flaps.

The blanking bushes are for the earlier all-metal Pierburg manifold, as de-flapping those leaves large (12 or 15mm, depending on type) holes in the top of the inlets that have to be plugged. De-flapping the Magneti Marelli plastic/metal manifold leaves 4x 8mm holes on the underside of the manifold, beneath the flat plastic cover over the rack and pinion mechanism. There are no kits for those, but there is no need for one, they look very easy to tap and fill with a bolt sealed with threadlock.

Provided you reinstate and reconnect the actuator motor, the ECU will be happy that it is controlling the flaps even though all it's doing is rotating the actuator spindle. No mapping is necessary.

However it makes sense to blank the EGR off at the same time, to eliminate soot being fed into the manifold. That does require re-mapping to avoid error codes even if the EGR itself remains electrically connected as the MAP sensor detects the missing exhaust gas as an EGR fault. From talking to Autolusso, blanking the EGR and mapping it out costs 150. For 300 you get a full remap incl. EGR blanking that will take a 150bhp CF4 to ~180bhp. There are many other companies including some who will come to you, who will map out the EGR or install more extensive maps, more cheaply, but caveat emptor - many will simply be flogging generic maps they've sourced from GOK where. Some will be excellent and expert, others will be take the money and run cowboys. I'd go on recommendation, if AL is too far away ask in these forums.

As far as DIY is concerned the internet is awash with maps of unknown provenance and mostly pirated software for DIY'ers off virus-laden websites, and you only need a 10 cable from eBay to use this stuff to write to the ECU. But having looked at all that, 1% of people know what they're doing, and 99% cause themselves problems ranging from wasting hours trying to get hooky software to do stuff they don't understand, through to bricking their ECU or trashing their engine. Like all hacking, it's a lot easier to be clever enough to wreck things than improve them. I am taking Clint Eastwood's advice here: "a man has to know his limitations". It's going to be a while before I need to think about maps or can afford one, given the expanding list of mechanical misfortune I'm dealing with, but I intend to get the car into a state where it has a long reliable life ahead. DIY mechanicals I can manage. DIY mapping, too many unknowns for me.

Alternatively, fitting a 4-hole restrictor plate to the EGR will cut down the soot to an extent and avoids the need for remapping. A 4 hole plate is now a Fiat recommendation. In the short term I see no problem with that.

However the consensus seems to be that the reduction of low-rev efficiency (due to swirl flap removal), is noticeable if EGR is retained or restricted, but not if EGR is blanked and mapped out. EGR is intended to reduce NO emissions by lowering combustion temperatures thanks to feeding low-oxygen exhaust gas into the inlet, ie deliberately impairing the fuel efficiency of the motor. Blanking the EGR makes the engine more fuel efficient at the cost of some increase in nitrogen oxides, but none of these options appear to affect current MOT emissions testing outcomes.
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Crap, it's not the oil filter, doh! Yet another thing learnt. Although I'm glad u said removing it is one of the most awkward job as I had it off yesterday and I'm fairly happy it caused little stress.

Once I get this all off, cleaned, modded and put back together. I'm gona have to look for the oil filter lol. I'm more used to seeing metal case design oil filters. Easier to see.
Hah, it fooled me too - to the extent I worried how on earth the oil filter could ever be changed in that position and with all the electrical connections at the base. The real oil filter is at the front, behind the radiator and next to the turbo and just to the n/s, but largely hidden beneath a protective bolt-on metal cover. It is a conventional disposable screw-on cartridge, though only about 70mm tall. Easy to see and get to once the undertray is off. Though getting the undertray off was a s*d, of course, due to seized bolts and screws with rusting heads. It ought to be a criminal offence not to use copper grease on fasteners like that.

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On a 159 the oil filter is an element inside a housing and is under the altenator on the rear of the engine.
Unless you have a ramp or pit you get to it from under the drivers side wheel arch with the wheel off
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Great information again, love you guys. I had bought a filter n oil ready for an oil change once I'd done the swirl flaps and put everything together. And when I saw the small plastic oil thingy, I thought that was the filter housing, especially when I took one of its hoses off and it had oil inside. Lol. It did seem alittle high to be the filter to be honest. Glad I know now and I'm sure I will see the real thing one I get the car on ramps.
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Would a garage tap the 8mm hole for me if it's the only thing I ask them to do as it's the only tool I wouldn't have?
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It would be very simple to do yourself if it is just a case of tapping the holes from the under side of the manifold, you'll just need a cheap tap and die set with an m10 tap and also an 8.5mm drill bit to drill the holes to the correct size for tapping.

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It would be very simple to do yourself if it is just a case of tapping the holes from the under side of the manifold, you'll just need a cheap tap and die set with an m10 tap and also an 8.5mm drill bit to drill the holes to the correct size for tapping.
Just ordered a tap chuck 6 piece set of eBay for 6. Can't got wrong with that. Just hope the postage doesn't delay things much. Cheapest sets in Halford n other walk in retailers start around 35 upwards.
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On a 159 the oil filter is an element inside a housing and is under the altenator on the rear of the engine.
Unless you have a ramp or pit you get to it from under the drivers side wheel arch with the wheel off
Good Lord, Alfa really do go out of their way to make things awkward. Whoever thought the alternator should go there was a sadistic maniac. It's about as helpful as putting the clutch slave inside the bellhousing. I felt utter relief when I discovered the oil filter at the front and quite accessible on the 147. Clearly Signor SM felt he should remedy that inadvertent bit of common sense, in the 159.
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Originally Posted by JON156VELOCE View Post
Hi, do you mean the fuel pump mounting stud.?
I removed it by locking a few nuts on it and then refitted it, you dont need to replace it.
The fuel pump nut is a 24mm and loosen it before you take the old timing belt off and when you refit it use a drop of loctite and dont overtighten it as you can crack the pulley I think its 50Nm.
The fuel pump will turn by hand and as it is just a pressure pump isnt timed.
24mm? Are you sure? I just bought a 24mm socket as my set only goes up to 19mm and the largest iv bought separately in the past is a 21mm for when I was replacing the suspension coils. Just tried the 24mm and it seems alittle loose. It could probably do the job but a smaller socket would definitely fit. 22mm or 23mm, more likely the latter.
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