Swirl flaps How To and MAF clean How To anywhere? 159 1.9 - Page 17 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuonGiorno View Post
I have used search but I do not eventually find it.

Let me ask the question here.

Has anyone who care his swirl flaps also succeeded to strip swirl flaps motor off ( As attached ) ???...

As soon as it switched off ECU shows up with P2014 failure code

As I learned from mapper it is impossible to map ECU this way. Or the mapper is not good.

Should I use any resistor similar to EGR device simulation ???...

Please let me know solution if any...


Did your car go into limp mode when that code came up?
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Originally Posted by halftone View Post
It would be good to lose that piece of junk, but I have no idea whether or how it is possible. From looking inside I don't think a single resistance value would work. From memory there is what looked like a potentiometer in the actuator, so probably a variable resistance tells the ECU how open the flaps are. If you take off the black plastic cover under the clips you may get a better idea. I don't even know if it's a dumb device or CAN node.
True... This swirl flaps motor socket has 4 pins. One resistor is definitely not OK...
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2 could be power to the motor, plus 2 to read potentiometer resistance as feedback of the flap position. That's what I'd expect if the actuator is dumb. ECU would just supply motor v until a required r is achieved. If it's that simple I think it should be possible to map out. Worth asking a specialist Alfa mapping expert anyway.

But if it's Can, God knows...
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What an absolutely brilliant thread this is! Kept me glued to my seat until nearly 3:30am.

So glad to hear both cars returned to the road and are doing well. I'm at the halfway point and about to start rebuilding. This thread has given me a huge boost of enthusiasm - thank you
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Cheers Mine is still absolutely fine, I've needed to do nothing to it since**. Hasn't even needed oil or coolant top up. There is life after swirl flap failure.

** Not entirely true. I have a couple of noisy injectors. #3 was the worst, perhaps not uncoincidentally the cylinder that ate a swirl flap and bent its valves. I replaced that with a reconditioned injector a couple of weeks ago, which restored sanity to the correction values but #4 is noisy when cold at low revs. I'm probably going to get that reconditioned next.
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Glad to hear that all ended so well for you. It's a mammoth task for a diy'er working outside.

I was relieved to find that all 4 of my flaps were still in place but noticed that one of the flaps was only held by one spot weld.

A bullet dodged!

Just finished cleaning out the inlet manifold and all being well, I start putting it all back together tomorrow

Cheers,

Roy.
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Gosh, I wish that happened more often. You were one pinhead weld away from disaster.

Three reassembly tips:
  • put the metal part of the manifold in place then insert the studs before adding the plastic part. Much easier and no fouling
  • don't do what I did and mix up the (pale gray) EGR valve plug with the (orangey-brown) swirl flap motor plug! Unfortunately the plug/socket design allows it. Doing so meant I had to take the HP fuel pump and manifold off again to sort that out. I still have my bootmarks on my arse.
  • when replacing the oil separator unit on the back of the head I really struggled with the position and lack of visibility. Only 1 of 3 bolt positions can be seen without mirrors and Capuchin fingers. It suddenly became a doddle when I hit on taping each mounting bolt into a long socket with electrical tape (just enough to hold it in the socket as a 'handle' for the bolt, but pull free once the bolt had started in the thread).

Last edited by halftone; 30-07-16 at 12:29.
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Originally Posted by halftone View Post
Gosh, I wish that happened more often. You were one pinhead weld away from disaster.

Three reassembly tips:
  • put the metal part of the manifold in place then insert the studs before adding the plastic part. Much easier and no fouling
  • don't do what I did and mix up the (pale gray) EGR valve plug with the (orangey-brown) swirl flap motor plug! Unfortunately the plug/socket design allows it. Doing so meant I had to take the HP fuel pump and manifold off again to sort that out. I still have my bootmarks on my arse.
  • when replacing the oil separator unit on the back of the head I really struggled with the position and lack of visibility. Only 1 of 3 bolt positions can be seen without mirrors and Capuchin fingers. It suddenly became a doddle when I hit on taping each mounting bolt into a long socket with electrical tape (just enough to hold it in the socket as a 'handle' for the bolt, but pull free once the bolt had started in the thread).
Hmm.. I didn't have much of a problem getting the entire manifold off the studs. Just put it back on no problem either. I must be lucky!

I was about to make the same plug mistake as you did... one reason I'm sat on the computer now trying to confirm which it is. Thank you!!

The oil separator unit is a complete arse. Already resigned myself to suffering and bleeding to get it back on - but I will!

Right, a quick brew and I'm back to it
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I was about to make the same plug mistake as you did... one reason I'm sat on the computer now trying to confirm which it is. Thank you!!
The loom makes it seem obvious that the gray plug is nearer to the swirl valve actuator. Wrong!

Just remember Gray=EGR(ay).

Quote:
The oil separator unit is a complete arse. Already resigned myself to suffering and bleeding to get it back on - but I will!
I really found it easy once I'd taped a socket onto each bolt. The two (invisible) holes toward the n/s end are open slots, the one at the o/s end is easy to see. I think I put a bolt in there loosely as a pivot, then got the other two in place with my taped-on socket 'handle' and feeling when the frame slots lined up with the little tapped turrets in the head casting. TBH I had more trouble taking it off, as I had no idea how the hell it was attached.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halftone View Post
The loom makes it seem obvious that the gray plug is nearer to the swirl valve actuator. Wrong!

Just remember Gray=EGR(ay).



I really found it easy once I'd taped a socket onto each bolt. The two (invisible) holes toward the n/s end are open slots, the one at the o/s end is easy to see. I think I put a bolt in there loosely as a pivot, then got the other two in place with my taped-on socket 'handle' and feeling when the frame slots lined up with the little tapped turrets in the head casting. TBH I had more trouble taking it off, as I had no idea how the hell it was attached.
With you there, it's going back together a lot faster than it came apart now that I know what goes where.

The separator was indeed a ***** but once I'd shed some blood and appeased the auto-gods, it finally went on ok.

The fuel pump nut nearest the inlet manifold was a challenge! That took a bit of wriggling with a magnet and a screwdriver before I got it on. I'm sure there must be a trick to this somehow.

Did I read something somewhere about a bolt on the water pump needing silicone to prevent it leaking?

Anyway, dinner eaten and I'm back at it. Throttle body needs tightening next
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