Swirl flaps How To and MAF clean How To anywhere? 159 1.9 - Page 16 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Sounds lovely mate. Your 'after' video has let me see the difference in layout between the 147 and 159, Interesting to see that. I've still no under tray on mine for investigation purposes. Over cautious. No harm the under tray on any car not being there, just with extra caution on the hump epidemic many of our towns residential areas have. My biggest fear with humps is someone ramming my rear as I slow down to go over them. The 19" rims and lowered 159 Ti makes some of them impossible. What rims on your 147? I've never seen the limit edition Ducati corse iv just come across on a Google search, the rims are big on those.

Extra bonus your thermostat is sound.
The rims are 17" 5-spokes with 215/45's, and the Q2 Sport is a bit (15mm, I think) lower than the stock 147. That, combined with the long front overhang, makes humps a real pain - and I just happen to live in the humpiest borough in the whole of UK. Every single side road has been done. I need a sump guard, not an undertray.

I think the motor could still be a bit quieter at idle, although it's better than the video when fully warmed up. Hence the question about injector adaptations. But the heavy rattle has gone, thankfully.
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The rims are 17" 5-spokes with 215/45's, and the Q2 Sport is a bit (15mm, I think) lower than the stock 147. That, combined with the long front overhang, makes humps a real pain - and I just happen to live in the humpiest borough in the whole of UK. Every single side road has been done. I need a sump guard, not an undertray.

I think the motor could still be a bit quieter at idle, although it's better than the video when fully warmed up. Hence the question about injector adaptations. But the heavy rattle has gone, thankfully.
225/45 tyres fit and would give you a touch more clearance.
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More choice in 225 too I suppose these 17's might be a bit tight in the arches China Balloon Tire 900-16 900-17 1400-20 For Truck - Buy Balloon Tire,Sand Tyres,900-16 Product on Alibaba.com
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Damn! I do so like driving this car, it's just great now. Even the alarm has sorted itself out after a period of battery disconnection. The initial few creaks from the front O/S suspension (on axle stands for 2m) have gone. Everything works! On an Alfa! All has been worth it :-) :-) :-)

[EDIT: false optimism on the alarm. It's now reverted to imaginary 5-flash tilt triggering.]

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HAPPY ALFA CUSTOMER. Great to hear your driving it around.

Iv found an oil leak on mine, very small but it there. It from the oil vacuum pump on the right hand side of the cam cover. If anyone remembers back, i had removed it and dismantled it for cleaning, with fear it had soaked up some water while clean all engine parts. It has an internal gasket as well as the main gasket that attaches it to the cam cover. The internal gasket i think is the issue which is a rubber ring or possible over tightened screws with possible damaged threads. Iv checked ePer for part numbers but can not see anything.

Does anyone have this information on part numbers for both gaskets for the oil vacuum pump as i will just replace both of them?

Also, if there are damaged threads anywhere around the pump, would it just be a case of tapping them a larger size and using larger bolts?

Or as a quick fix, would using gasket seal be the easiest option and how reliable would that option be as iv not much experience with gasket seal silicon.

Worth having the undertray off all this time otherwise i wouldnt have noticed this.

2009 Alfa 159 Ti 1.9 JTDM (red)

● M32 gearbox rebuild (within 1000miles of purchase, replaced bearings and clutch)
● Eibach pro spring replacement (all round) due to 2 failures (front and rear drivers side)
● BREMBO discs and pads all around replaced (courtesy of alfasportiva)

Wish I bought a 2.4.
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Fiat Dealer checked parts and could not find a part number for the internal gasket (dont know if i even need it or not). So im guessing the pump would only come as a complete unit with the internal gasket fitted.

Can any alfa masters confirm that please.
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Or....do the bolts need gasket seal on them? As im looking how the oil in dripping out and this could be a factor. Whats the best seal product for sealing a bolt if the bolt hole runs into the oil channel?

I used Granville clear Instant Gasket for the water pump. Is this suitable

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I thought it was the HP fuel pump you took apart for no good reason. Bosch sell rebuild kits of gaskets, bits and o-rings for those. But I think you're saying it was the brake/system vacuum pump, driven by the end of the exhaust cam?

I'd expect any oil leaking from there to be coming from the gasket between the pump and cam box. There's no oil fed to it or pumped by it, just the mist from the cambox itself lubricates the innards enough. Is oil dripping from the joint, or emerging elsewhere?

If it's coming from the joint (the gasket between the pump and cambox), did you replace it? There was a new one in the gasket kit from Autolusso. Are the bolts tightened evenly?

EDIT: actually eBay is a better source for O-rings in very small quantities. I recently got some truly weird sized imperial ones there and managed to fix my 1973 American trolley jack that just started leaking

It won't cause any harm to clean it all up then use a thin film of Granville goop on that gasket and remake the joint. However I wouldn't use it/silicone within the vacuum pump itself without extreme care about where debris might end up. Brakes are useful.

If it's damaged threads giving way, I think you'll need to use Helicoil or similar to insert a new thread. Oversize bolts won't go through the pump body.

I'd imagine the vacuum pump is supposed to be sealed-for-life, but any internal O-rings are likely to be standard sizes, and (if you can measure them accurately) replaceable from the likes of altecweb.com - Products for Home, DIY, Work & Office In that location, ordinary nitrile is likely to be the material rather than viton (which is hot petrol proof). But I suspect a used replacement pump will not be expensive, and possibly a better idea.

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Yeah, its the brake/system vacuum pump, not the HP fuel pump. The whole job could probably have been done without even removing it, but as I did not remove the battery or battery tray, i would not of had access to the thermostat, and the maze of pipes down that side. I dismantled it due to the fear water was inside so it was a precaution to dismantle it.

Oil looked to be building up and dripping from the lowest bolt attaching it to the cam cover. I will look in more depth later. I had difficulty positioning the toothed type inners to the exhaust cam and it was very tight when installing. i remember on bolt that seemed to be loose when tighting, but i cant remember if it was this pump or the water pump as i had issue over there too.

I remember when reassembling the pump the O-ring did not seem to be very raised in its resess but all i did was clean it so did not think too hard about it. It is a square edge O-ring.

The larger pump to cam cover gasket i did replace with what i had from Ned.

I will research Helicoil and find out what that is later.
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I'd quiet enjoy doing the whole helicoil thing, tricky access again, battery would definately need out. But I hope not as I'm hoping this is a quick fix.
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Hah, it took me a few attempts to get the vacuum pump drive aligned with the cam, too.

Sounds to me like the oil is being forced past the gasket between the pump and cambox by normal crankcase pressure. Internal seals will be there to keep oil out of the pump itself.

If one of the threads isn't too secure, you might find a slightly (5-10mm) longer bolt will reach undamaged bits of thread. As long as it doesn't interfere with anything within the cambox, eg the gearing between inlet and exhaust cams, that'll be fine and avoid needing to Helicoil.

Battery out is a very quick and easy job, on my 147 anyhow. The negative terminal is a brilliant cam clip, no tools required, just pull the lever. The positive a single nut and bolt on the clamp round the battery post + self-tapper security screw into the battery. Aside from that small screw you don't need to touch any of the nuts, fuses and stuff in the covered distribution gubbins on top of the post. The strap is a 13mm nut. The battery then just lifts out.

I have no idea how you managed to do the thermostat and vacuum pump with the battery in. I struggled with the thermostat mounting even without
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Quote:
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Hah, it took me a few attempts to get the vacuum pump drive aligned with the cam, too.

Sounds to me like the oil is being forced past the gasket between the pump and cambox by normal crankcase pressure. Internal seals will be there to keep oil out of the pump itself.

If one of the threads isn't too secure, you might find a slightly (5-10mm) longer bolt will reach undamaged bits of thread. As long as it doesn't interfere with anything within the cambox, eg the gearing between inlet and exhaust cams, that'll be fine and avoid needing to Helicoil.

Battery out is a very quick and easy job, on my 147 anyhow. The negative terminal is a brilliant cam clip, no tools required, just pull the lever. The positive a single nut and bolt on the clamp round the battery post + self-tapper security screw into the battery. Aside from that small screw you don't need to touch any of the nuts, fuses and stuff in the covered distribution gubbins on top of the post. The strap is a 13mm nut. The battery then just lifts out.

I have no idea how you managed to do the thermostat and vacuum pump with the battery in. I struggled with the thermostat mounting even without http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
With a few inspections and wipes clean I think the oil is coming from the large internal O-ring. The cause, the bolts that hold the vacuum pump to the cam cover are Allen keys bolts. The bolts that seal the vacuum pump with the O-ring together are hex type I believe. I damaged the lowest one using a cheap hex tool which was not a good fit. So I think it's not as tight as it should be. I will need to replace this but not sure how to match it with a replacement.

Also, and anyone advise on 3rd party cheaper MAP sensors? Need to get one but I think the genuine ones are too expensive.
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Not having ever looked inside I don't know how this particular vacuum pump works or is put together. What do you need to match? A damaged bolt? Can you post a couple of photos, one of the bolt in situ, one of the bolt by itself.
<bodge#1><bold> You can sometimes get more torque onto damaged Allen head fasteners using a Torx bit hammered into the bolt. </bold></bodge>
<bodge#2>You may be able to get a bit more life out of the square-section O-ring by bedding it into a thin bead of silicone gasket, so it is raised a bit. Let the silicone go off for a half hour before clamping it up. NB DO NOT USE THIS IN CARBURETTORS - SILICONE REACTS BADLY AND MESSILY TO PETROL as I learned the hard way.</bodge>

I take it you damaged the plastic cage or something, on your MAP, due to it being glued in place with carbon and crap. I think this is pretty usual, but the cage bit is just cosmetic protection for the element that will only matter if you drop it. If you managed to clean it, it's gas tight in the manifold, and works, I wouldn't worry about it.
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I may be wrong what I last said about the small leak from the pump sealing bolt (this is the closest one in the 1st picture, hex type bolt). The drip is from the lowest bolt which is a mounting to the cam cover. But as this is the lowest point the leak could be from higher up easily. I think it's just going to be a case of remove, rework and investigate and reinstall. But the pump sealing bolt with the hex nearest will need replaced.

The cage on the MAP is damaged correct. But too much of it is damaged to create a seal. I tried with 2x rubber washers but that has not worked. I think a metal washer where the screw goes in will be better as this is where the pressure is when tightened.
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There's a used Bosch MAP for 8.39 incl post from a breaker at http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2003-2010-...-/131716122580 - if no good, 14 days to return.

Any cap head bolt of the same length and thread should be fine to replace your damaged one. If you don't have one, PM me the size, eg M6 x 12mm and an address and I'll post you one. I don't know if I have a round cap head, but will have something that will work.
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I bought that sensor off ebay. Thank you very much for finding Tony, great find. I'm just waiting for it in the post now. Save me the hassle faffing around with my broken one.
I've still not got around to the leak. Thanks for the offer on bolt hunting. Top job. I will let you know if I get stuck.
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I hope it works OK.

All I've done is clean the car (first time ever, since I bought it) and enjoy what happens in third gear when I stick my foot down, specially on bends (also the first time ever).
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Looks fantastic Tony. Nice to see an Alfa of the same age that doesn't have the same interior layout as every other model. I like the engine cover on your motor too and the rubber strip running right across the front, at a quick glance looks like a strut brace.

I've a sharp humpback bridge around the corner from me that loves third gear.
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MAP sensor came Friday. I've just put it in, codes and number on it different but gave it a shot. Started it up and got EML straight away. So not a compatible sensor it seems. Worth a shot though.
I still wanna go back to someone giving me knowledge of the third party MAP sensors. Are they any good? What issues can arise with them?
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what code was your original and whats the new one ?
if its a bosch for a bosch and the code is different its likely that its a different pressure range , might be the reason for the code.
the sensors have a temperature sensor also if that's failed it could also give a code.
the difference between say bosch and pieburg is usually price and also the calibration tables in the ecu might not match the other part exactly, must be close enough to list as suitable part.
had a cheaper no name and it failed within a year I think , was getting boost oscillations

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Oh bugger. I'd assumed part numbers must have matched. Maybe Autolusso or other specialist can supply the right used part from a dismantled car.
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Possible false alarm. I stopped and started ignition a dozen times when I installed it. Usually EML resets after 4 or 5 starts normally if the issue isn't persistent. But started it a few times today and it has cleared thankfully. I will plug up Multiecuscan when I get a chance and see what's logged, but at the moment all seems ok.
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Just a final episode. I've done a few hundred miles in the de-flapped EGR-blanked 147 and not had any issues except the MCSF light due to the blanked EGR. The car seemed so good that I wondered about bothering to get it mapped out at all. 150 seemed a lot of money just to switch a poxy light off.

Wrong! Yesterday Autolusso did the EGR delete remap and I could tell the difference as I pulled away. It has really cleaned up throttle response and added smoothness and torque below ~2k, and the car is now a more relaxing drive in traffic. Which I had lots of on the way home round the N.Circular. It's probably no good for the DMF but it will happily trickle along in 1st or 2nd with no clutch use at 845rpm idle, smooth as butter, and pick up on the throttle with no lag or stumble. There is no hint it runs hotter without EGR. It seems to use less fuel at 60-70 cruising on the motorway.

There seem to be varied opinions on the wisdom of getting rid of flaps and EGR mapped out. I never drove this car when it had functioning swirl flaps and EGR without bent valves/damaged head and a sticky turbo (it was then not happy in traffic), so I can't say whether it's better or worse than OE. All I can say is DO IT NOW, you lose nothing you'll miss except the problems those wretched devices cause.
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I have used search but I do not eventually find it.
Let me ask the question here.
Has anyone who care his swirl flaps also succeeded to strip swirl flaps motor off ( As attached ) ???...
As soon as it switched off ECU shows up with P2014 failure code
As I learned from mapper it is impossible to map ECU this way. Or the mapper is not good.
Should I use any resistor similar to EGR device simulation ???...
Please let me know solution if any...
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It would be good to lose that piece of junk, but I have no idea whether or how it is possible. From looking inside I don't think a single resistance value would work. From memory there is what looked like a potentiometer in the actuator, so probably a variable resistance tells the ECU how open the flaps are. If you take off the black plastic cover under the clips you may get a better idea. I don't even know if it's a dumb device or CAN node.
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