Swirl flaps How To and MAF clean How To anywhere? 159 1.9 - Page 14 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Inspirational. Well done.
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(Post Link) post #327 of 410 Old 23-02-16 Thread Starter
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Which do we all prefer, with or without the engine cover?

I had one component I did not know or could see where it fixed. It's a small metal bracket attached to the engine wiring loom. Wiring comes over the throttle body and down between it and the oil filler housing were the wiring has an electrical connector for the throttle body and for the thermostat. It's no big deal but would like a pointer if anyone can. The little bracket is dead centre on the image attached.

Done approx 50miles since completion and all is well. No leaks, dry as a bone at all components. The water pump bolts are sound as Halftone pointed out could be an issue. My water pump has been reused as its practically new along with the gasket which has been sealed with Granville Instant Gasket, which maybe the reason the lower water pump bolt doesn't have an issue, who knows. Low down performance maybe alittle improved.

Still smiling.
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I prefer no engine cover. I always run mine without the covers.. The bonnet is the only engine cover I need (although after last night's close look at it, through the windscreen at about 70mph, I could quite happily forgo the bonnet too)
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Originally Posted by Pud237 View Post
I prefer no engine cover. I always run mine without the covers.. The bonnet is the only engine cover I need (although after last night's close look at it, through the windscreen at about 70mph, I could quite happily forgo the bonnet too)
Through windscreen at 70mph???? I'm confused with that comment, what happened?
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On the 147 there's a weird, contorted bracket for various pipes and wires that bolts to the thermostat body, using a single short bolt at an odd, 45deg upwards angle - it confused the hell out of me when trying to figure out how to dismount the stat. Maybe your 159 is similar - that looks like the mounting hole on the bracket itself in the middle of the pic, so not yet mounted to the thermostat. From memory I think the bolt is M8 x ~15mm.

Previously I said I didn't think there was a bleed screw for the cooling system. That's wrong. On the 147 I found there is a coolant bleed plug, central top surface of the rigid metal water pipe that runs across the front of the engine. That should be opened to allow trapped air to escape once the system is filled with coolant. Whether the 159 has similar I don't know, that pipe is a different design, from photos. If you do have a plug, open it with the engine cold, until coolant begins to emerge, then tighten.

Sounds like Pud had a spontaneous bonnet opening incident whilst driving That's a known fault on some Alfas, where the catch fails to lock properly. I know it's a hazard on the 147, so probably 156 also, maybe others too, with the recommendation that the catch is kept clean and well lubricated, and any time the bonnet is closed, special attention be paid to ensuring the catch is properly engaged. IE try lifting the bonnet to ensure it's latched properly.

I had the same thing happen at 70mph on the A2 c.1972, in my first car, a Hillman Superminx convertible. Couldn't see a damn thing, but aimed for a layby, went onto grass and was very lucky that I got it stopped about a foot short of a giant metal roadsign I couldn't even see. Most unpleasant. New bonnet, hinges and pants required.
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PS I'll put the cover back just because I've nowhere else to put it. I wish it was 'tool-less' to dismount, though, instead of having to fetch a socket and extension just to undo those 3 bolts.

[EDIT: Huh, your cover looks like it just pushes on and pulls off, no boltholes. What luxury! Also the rigid water pipe doesn't look like it has a bleed screw, nor should it need one. The 147's turns down at both ends, so perfect for creating an airlock.

Last edited by halftone; 24-02-16 at 01:50.
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(Post Link) post #332 of 410 Old 24-02-16 Thread Starter
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I'm sure that bracket I questioned on mine attaches too the throttle body or the egr bracket and iv left the nut that holds it still attached as I was monotonous about keeping all the nuts and bolts attached to where they should go when dismantling as not to loose any. I'm sure I will stick a dental mirror down there one day and find it, haha.

I witnessed a old style mini copper have bonnet latch failure on a duel carriage way 15-20years ago. Swinging back at 50mph plus gale force winds caused it to be a right off with bonnet, windscreen and roof damage you could not imagine. Make me panic everytime I seen a motorist pass with then bonnet no shut correctly.

There is a bleed nut on the rigid coolant pipe on the 159. I forgot to mention when you pointed that out a few posts back.

Yep, screw less engine cover, very posh. Tbh I prefer everything bolted down. I may keep my cover on, same issue storing it anywhere. Although I'm sure for MOT's and any serious service work I have to leave the car in for (lol, really) I will remove the engine cover before hand, so they don't end up misplacing it, which has happened once before and mainly to show it off

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Yeah that was it, spontaneous bonnet opening is a good term for it! Scary stuff, luckily the curvaceous 156 bonnet leaves a big enough gap at the bottom that you can see through to steer! On inspection the secondary (safety) catch spring was missing and it was over in the wrong direction. I couldn't see anything wrong with the main catch, but there obvious was as it let go.. I managed to get the bonnet back down onto the safety catch with an elbow drop that Randy Savage would have been proud of, and then swapped it all over at work the next day. Got a nice gabbiano blue bonnet on now, new catch mechanism and two new lifters. Plastic scuttle panels are all mashed up and the roof looks like someone has jumped up and down on it, but the screen is fine other than the odd scratch. Its just a runaround though, its not any of my nice 156s

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Resolution, ah yes, that sounds familiar - the bracket bolts to the underneath of the throttle body I think. I'm getting confused with so many bits and pieces. Still the thermostat does have a bolthole into a 45 deg chamfer - not on the top, but the bottom. No idea what that is for now.

Meanwhile, exasperation here. I plugged in the swirl flap actuator to the loom (one of only 2 wire-clip plugs I believe, the rest have those yellow locks), and put the inlet back in today. All fine except the loom isn't sitting right. It's about 50mm too short, can't reach the glowplugs or MAP, and can't clamp to the top of the plastic plenum. What the hell have I done?

No idea, peering down the back of the engine, nothing is caught or snagged, the only thing stopping the loom from pulling up into position is the connection to the swirl flap actuator.

I can't possibly have stuck the wrong plug in there, can I? Don't see how, I checked carefully before attaching and couldn't see any other candidates. It's the lowest connector that branches off the main loom across the back of the engine. And it fitted the socket correctly. There aren't any other possibles.

I've checked and re-checked and re-re-re-checked and it all looks right, but the damn wire is too short to allow the loom to come up enough. WT actual F. It's like the wire has shrunk 2".

The connector in question is utterly inaccessible on the underneath of the actuator, with the starter motor preventing access from below There is no question of unplugging it. So it looks like I may have to take the inlet manifold off again.
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Crapity crap. It my be the route the cable is taking. Have you the oil catch tank thingy and bracket on. As I know mine detoured around it and there is a wiring loom fixing bracket to attach to the top of the oil catch tank thingy. If you can upload any kind of photo I could compare as best as possible. The wiring, hoses and fuel pipes are a pain in the arse, I can see why they opted to stick an engine cover on top to hide how much spaghetti is their.
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No, the oil recovery thingy was going to be the next job. Fortunately I checked the loom first. I'd be really ****ed if I'd put that back only to find it had to come off again.

There are no snags, and the wiring is routed straight and where it should be. It can't go anywhere else. Incomprehensible unless I've somehow plugged the wrong wire into the swirl flap actuator. Trouble with that theory is I can't find any other wire off the engine loom that it could be. Nor can I see what that plug might go into if not the actuator. Mad.

I took lots of photos as I dismantled, of course, but down the back of the engine was impossible. None show anything useful except where the loom should be.
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(Post Link) post #337 of 410 Old 24-02-16 Thread Starter
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It'll be a case of where the fook did I leave my keys, to then suddenly find them and realise what a clown you've been. On mine, connectors around there that I removed are, hp fuel pump, MAP and swirls, egr, that's it. I did not remove alternator connector which I think was the only other near by connector down the back. And I also presumed each connector was a unique fit so no mix up was possible. So I'm stumped. I will video mine as soon as I can, following the loom best i can and let you study it that way. It's the only thing I could suggest at this point to help. Expect that posted within the next 1hr 30mins.
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Oh, it will be something stupid I've done. I too didn't disconnect anything not necessary to remove the inlet manifold - didn't touch the starter, or alternator in the end.

Thanks but don't worry about a video. I'll start again with a fresh head tomorrow. At least I checked immediately, so no big deal. Red wine will fix it for now.

But if any of the experts are able to say "you berk, you plugged the actuator to the chicken soup heater wiring" that'd be helpful. I think the connector I used is pale gray. Definitely has a wire clip rather than the yellow lock tab. And it fitted the actuator and clicked home.
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Best I can do. click here. Excuse the end of the video, was completely blind to where I pointing it. Probably won't help. Oil regulator bracket in the way.
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Thanks for trying, but I am none the wiser. It's like a jungle down there.
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Right, manifold is off again, because I simply could not see anything wrong with way the loom was positioned, nor any other connector. I still can't.

The connector I had plugged into the swirl flap actuator is marked A047, gray, with a yellow lock tab (not wire clip as I said above). 6 pins, fits correctly.

If I follow the loom across the back of the engine, it's clipped at the top of the dipstick tube, goes down behind the HP fuel pump bracket, and A047 is connector at the lowest point (see red dots on pic), before the loom climbs up the back of the engine toward the glowplugs, MAP sensor etc (green dots). I still can't see any other connector that could possibly fit to the swirl actuator. But, with A047 plugged in the wire is 5cm or so too short to allow the loom to connect to any of those. With it disconnected, there's loads of slack. As can be seen in the photo I am able to pull the whole lot upwards.

This is now driving me nuts. Do Italian electrics shrink when disconnected for a couple of weeks or something? eLearn for the 147 1.9 JTD doesn't even mention an electrical connection to the actuator...

If anyone can point out where and how I am being an idiot, I would be very grateful.
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(Post Link) post #342 of 410 Old 25-02-16 Thread Starter
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The loom does look different to mine, not 100% on that though. To me that connector looks like where the EGR connector would have been. I'm sure you have checked if the EGR fits onto this connector. Even if it does or it is the EGR, it still leaves the issue where swirl connector is. My swirl connector had more than enough slack and a bit more to fit and be manoeuvred into place. To me it's way too short and in wrong place to be swirl connector. But if the loom is different to mine then who knows. I wouldn't have a clue on the differences on the 159 to the 147. You mentioned alternator was in different place, and I can see dip stick too. Not that these things are connected to the issue in hand.
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Sadly, the EGR is only 2 pin, this socket (and the swirl actuator) has 6 pins.

Like you, early on I believed I had discovered each connection was unique, and from then on didn't pay too much attention to what came from where.

There's not even a wiring diagram for this poxy car, that I can find. That would solve the matter.

I thought I must have the loom routed wrongly after pulling and pushing it around to dismount stuff, but I can't see how it could sit differently enough to make a difference. Another episode tomorrow!
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Fingers crossed for you. I'm really hoping one of the big men have the solution. Wish I was their to help because it's so frustrating that I can't.
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Thanks My eLearn seems to stop at 2004, conveniently avoiding all mention of swirl flaps and actuators. There is an engine loom diagram, but it's nothing like mine. It doesn't split between 1,2 and 3,4 glowplugs and dive down the back to where this connector and the actuator are.

A couple of hours with Google has drawn a blank.

If anyone has a later eLearn that might cover a 2008 147 1.9 16v JTDM, or knows where I can get one... H E L P! I've never yet found one for >2004.

It still seems like it is the right connector but the damn wiring has shrunk!

2 photos of how it looked before I pulled it apart, dots coloured to relate to the previous post pic. See, it used to reach OK, to run along the top of the manifold...

Ned, Pud, please stop laughing.

EDIT: oh, and ePer is no help either - I can't find the engine loom anywhere. Every other bit of wiring, sure, but not this. It's a conspiracy.
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Even with your original pictures I still can't get my head around it. The loom at that connector just doesn't look long enough at all. That actuator is deep down the back. I'm guessing same as mine, your connecting that connector to the actuator/manifold before installing the head as there is no way of reaching connector once installed.

Have you tried installing just the actuator and metal swirl airways only, leaving the plastic manifold off so you can see and get your hand in alittle easier. If there is very little slack, it would probably restrict you getting room to fit the plastic part of the manifold afterwards but at least you might see what's going wrong.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Resolution View Post
Even with your original pictures I still can't get my head around it. The loom at that connector just doesn't look long enough at all. That actuator is deep down the back. I'm guessing same as mine, your connecting that connector to the actuator/manifold before installing the head as there is no way of reaching connector once installed.
Yes.

Quote:
Have you tried installing just the actuator and metal swirl airways only, leaving the plastic manifold off so you can see and get your hand in alittle easier. If there is very little slack, it would probably restrict you getting room to fit the plastic part of the manifold afterwards but at least you might see what's going wrong.
Yes. Well, I did it the other way round - took out the plastic part first, yesterday, as the studs don't need to come out for that. None the wiser.

Either it's the wrong connector or the loom is misrouted from the HP pump, where it is clipped to the dipstick, across and down the back of the engine. But as you say, there just isn't the vertical height in the loom, from the connector to the 'Y' that splits along the top of the plenum. So it has to be the wrong connector. Investigations will now continue...
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Hmm. I can just glimpse the EGR connection in the first of my original photos above, just left of the MAP, and it appears to be suspiciously gray... 6 pin socket into 2 pin EGR? This might explain a lot... I am going outside, I may be some time...
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And that indeed was the answer. FFS.

The Swirl Flap actuator and EGR connector are identical 6-socket plugs, except someone more observant than me would notice and remember that the EGR connector is GRAY, with 2 of 6 pins connected, the Swirl actuator connector is ORANGE with 4 of 6 pins connected.

In all the shoving stuff out of the way, the cable clip on the oil recovery unit had got rotated so that the wire with the orange terminal was pointing upwards. I didn't even consider it until I started looking for an alternative to gray. As soon as I saw it, I remembered my mental note about the colours. Thanks for the nudge Resolution, as soon as you suggested EGR a faint ghostly bell rang.

So now the inlet is fitted (again), wiring fits properly, and now just some more gubbins around the bulkhead to do, plus HP pump and all the timing and aux belt stuff. Maybe I'll remember to put oil and coolant in the engine, maybe I won't. {Edit: checks notes, coolant is the pink one}.
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Last edited by halftone; 26-02-16 at 19:12.
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You plonker, thank muck for that. I knew it. My EGR connector gave me issues as part of the clip inside broke so I knew it looked the same or similar. Really please you worked it out boss. Big thumbs up!!
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