Swirl flaps How To and MAF clean How To anywhere? 159 1.9 - Page 13 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #301 of 410 Old 17-02-16 Thread Starter
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Any tips on opening the jaw of the clamp that holds the catalyst to the exhaust manifold. It's solid and really tricky once the manifold is already attached to the head.
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(Post Link) post #302 of 410 Old 17-02-16 Thread Starter
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Last nights efforts in the dark under flood light.
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Any tips on opening the jaw of the clamp that holds the catalyst to the exhaust manifold. It's solid and really tricky once the manifold is already attached to the head.
I had much fun with that when dismantling. To make it easier to put back I removed the bolt, nut and saddles and used a couple of bits of 1" ID steel pipe each about .5m long over the ends of the clamp to make handles. They enabled me to open it up enough to fit over the joint easily instead of not fit at all.
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Any tips on opening the jaw of the clamp that holds the catalyst to the exhaust manifold. It's solid and really tricky once the manifold is already attached to the head.
A piece of threaded bar or a long bolt where the clamp bolt goes with 2 nuts on the inside of the clamp wound to open the clamp outwards
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You can lever the tensioner out with a pry bar (screwing a bolt into the block a little lower down gives you something to lever off), as you lever the tensioner out the pointer will move around, when it gets to the hole, nip up the tensioner bolt and that is job done (for now). Then remove locking tools, turn the engine over a good few times, re-fit the locking tools to make sure everything lines up still, then check the tensioner pointer is still in the right place.

Big kudos to Resolution for doing this on his own, its quite tricky to lever the tensioner out and nip the bolt up on your own, a second pair of hands makes this much easier.
Pud the belt tensioning process listed in Auto data is slightly different, it says to first tension the belt to the max setting, ie with the pointer past the hole, turn the engine twice and then reset the pointer to line up with the hole.
I guess the first part s to take out any stretch in the belt.
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(Post Link) post #306 of 410 Old 18-02-16 Thread Starter
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Ned, think you tried to call me today. Possibly regarding sending or you having taken delivery of my old head. I will call you tomorrow. Or PM on here if its suitable. Many thanks
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Head's back on, cambox, injectors, now half way with the exhaust/turbo/cat monkey puzzle. After trying and failing to wriggle it back in one heavy, ungainly, flexible (at the cat joint) lump I arrived at the rather odd conclusion that the easiest thing might be to replace the turbo first. So I supported it with a piece of string and had good access to the oil supply and return fixings (as opposed to naff all once the manifold is in). Next the cat, then the manifold. I don't anticipate any trouble with either. But it's raining again...

That still leaves the inlet manifold, plumbing, timing and aux belts and electrical connections, oil and coolant - but once the exhaust is in with head repair stuff completed, it'll feel like I am on the home straight. Though some of that will have to be after next weekend owing to costs.

Resolution, yours looks pretty much finished. Is it running yet?
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(Post Link) post #308 of 410 Old 20-02-16 Thread Starter
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Good job halftone. Mine is not running yet. Since I last posted my efforts iv not had time or the weather to do anything else, and with it being half term and the kids being off making it impossible.

I had a few hours on it this evening. Had fun doing an oil change finally. I do not like that design of filter on the 159. Difficult for access, narrow grip area for a filter removal tool and awkward to clean the housing once disposable filter is removed. Usually joys with sump drain plug. I had good contact and grip with a 13mm ring spanner but no leverage. As the front end is on axle stands and the front drivers wheel is still off, I thought it best to remove the drivers side axle stand and lower that side as low as possible to assist draining as much as possible from the sump. Surprising how much more oil comes out once tilted. New filter in and all fluids in.

Only thing now is that nightmare of a clamp on the exhaust manifold/catalyst. Should be able to sort that tomorrow and it'll be fire up time.

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Turn the engine over with the injector leads disconnected until you get oil pressure light out on the dash.
Turn the heater on full and leave the cap off the header tank, this is to allow airlocks in the coolant to clear (I don't think there is a coolant bleed screw on this car - unless anyone knows better?).
Then reconnect injector wires and start. May take a bit of cranking for fuel to get through the HP lines.
Expect alarming top end rattling from the lifters, until they pump up. Any other abnormal noises need investigating.
Let it idle until warm, checking for oil, air, exhaust and water leaks.
Replace the header tank cap when the car gets to 90C, but before it boils. By then the thermostat will have opened and water circulation hopefully cleared any airlocks in the pipes.
Expect smoke from VHT paint curing. This can be quite a lot and last 10-20mins, and may continue to stink a bit for days.
Turn it off, then check fluid levels again. Check again for leaks, eg dropping oil.
Should now be OK to drive cautiously. Check brakes OK (you may get a bit of noise from rusty disks from standing, for a few secs). Check power steering OK. Check handbrake hasn't seized on from standing. After that, drive and check turbo operation.

You'll hopefully find a bit more power than when you had several valves leaking from swirl flap damage.

Remember that with the EGR blanked but no adjustment to the ECU maps, the MCSF light will come on at some point and an EGR failure code get stored.

That's it really. There's no run-in requirement with a recon head. Just keep a close eye on oil and coolant levels for a few days until you're confident all is normal. Probably a good idea to read the codes too, just to make sure no other codes are being hidden by the expected EGR-derived MCSF.
Just double checking start up procedure.
Injectors leads are the four electrical connectors going into the fuel injectors?
Turn the heater on full? Is this the cabin heater controlled on the dash and do I still turn the engine over while doing this?
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....
Just double checking start up procedure.
Injectors leads are the four electrical connectors going into the fuel injectors?
Turn the heater on full? Is this the cabin heater controlled on the dash and do I still turn the engine over while doing this?
Yes, disconnect the 4 injector wires. That's just so you can turn the engine over and get some oil pressure up and oil circulating to the head and the turbo without the injectors introducing fuel and the engine starting, because the oilways have been dry during the work done.

Turning the heater on full - well, the idea is that any air trapped in the heater should be expelled as water circulates. The thermostat will prevent coolant circulating to the heater until warm enough to open, so just turn the heater on whilst the engine warms up. The trouble with trapped air is that it expands, and can prevent coolant reaching parts it needs to cool, and can also cause coolant to be expelled.
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Just in case you still have that clamp to do, it's fine once opened up enough off the car - so that the tangs are parallel and it will easily slip over the conical connectors on the cat and turbo with plenty of clearance. Anything less than that and it's an utter pig.

On my 147 putting the turbo in first, then the cat, then the manifold (with the bottom support under the cat left loose, just taking the weight), all worked out rather well. I'm sure there are faster ways, but working alone in the street with very limited access under the car I didn't swear much at all.
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(Post Link) post #311 of 410 Old 21-02-16 Thread Starter
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Iv got everything done. Clamp was a pain. Only access for a 3year old with arms 3x the length. Put a bolt with 2x nuts inside the clamp to expand it. Whether I needed to do this or not I don't know, and it took forever, but I got there. They the last part of the exhaust connected and happy days.

Next problem. The battery seemed alittle flat so before turning the ignition I thought I'd charge it alittle. Only way I had of doing this was with jump leads off my other car. So followed standard start up for jump leads.

1. Connect red clamp to working battery
2. Connect other red clamp to dead battery
3. Connect black clamp to working battery
4. Connect other black clamp to metal car part on car with dead battery.
5. Start the good battery and run good battery motor for 10-15mins to charge dead battery.

Before starting all this, if I opened the car, opened the boot, the central locking all worked normal, alarm worked, inserting key in dash the dash illuminated. I just wanted alittle more juice in battery as its been sitting nearly a good few weeks doing nothing. As I attached the black lead an engine mounting bolt it sparked alittle which in my experience is normal. Left car for a little to charge and as I got in I notice the interior lighting didn't come on. I inserted the key and nothing. I don't understand. I doubt the battery is dead as I left it 30mins to charge off the other car. My only guess is that a fuse or sumthing is at fault. Can anyone point me in the ring direction. I looked in both fuse boxes quickly in the dark and all looked to be ok. I'm stumped.

Could a mega-fuse or maxi-fuse be to blame? If so, how can I check?

Last edited by Resolution; 21-02-16 at 19:56.
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FALSE ALARM, Phew


Stupid battery design on my Citroen C4 Grand Picassole. Due to it being a people carrier the whole engine is under the windscreen rather than the bonnet, and the battery is right at the back. I can only see the positive terminal clamp, the rest of the battery, including negative terminal is hidden in a plastic case. There is a fuse panel on the battery which look to be connected to the negative battery pole as they are on top of it, which doesn't make sense but it's what it looks like.

Incidentally, they are not. This is connected to the positive, which mean I was connecting the red and black cable both to the positive of the good battery. Impossible battery to jump from. Would only be able to jump it if it was the dead battery. Crap design.

Found a kind neighbor and I got it started

About time I hear you all cry!!
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Great news

Don't try and charge a battery like that again by the way.. If you really really must, at least disconnect the battery that is being charged from the car that it is going to start before you start trying to charge it. And never leave keys in the ignition while connecting up jump leads.
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(Post Link) post #314 of 410 Old 22-02-16 Thread Starter
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Just for my notes, when it comes to rattles etc. It's been mentioned about the lifters making noise until they fill with oil again, how long would that take? If the timing was outta sequence what would the noise be like?
I don't have any concerns but I just want to triple check everything.
I have still got the drivers wheel off for checking and cleaning still to do but I will do that tomorrow and get it out on the road to see how it feels? I will keep you posted.
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Excellent!!!

Perhaps buy yourself a battery charger to celebrate They should be a legal requirement of AR ownership.

I don't know how long these lifters will take to quieten down but I'd expect only 15-60sec of engine running. They aren't exactly quiet anyhow. They may never have rattled if you cranked the engine to build oil pressure before starting. I only mentioned them in case they do, and sound alarming.

The only noise mis-timing is likely to make is either silence, as the engine cranks and doesn't start, or some loud nasty clunks as pistons hit valves, after which it is unlikely to run, or only very badly. If it's running well, given how careful you've been, believe all is fine. But do a visual check of both belts to ensure they are running true and not wandering off the side of the pulleys, which would indicate an idler or tensioner misaligned.

Last edited by halftone; 22-02-16 at 02:41.
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A battery charger looks like a good investment giving the past 24hrs.

Iv Gunked and powers washed the rest of the engine bay this morning. Mainly on top of the wheel arches due to belt residue, the subframe and gave the body work a good wash too. Drivers side front wheel back on, and test drive. Just before setting off a neighbor who is an AA van mechanic passed and said it sounds well. That was releiving. Drove to a mechanic/mate I know, 1mile drive. Even though I'd run the engine approx an hour before driving there seemed to be a lot of smoke out the rear. High temp paint curing but still worrying to see. He said straight away it sound fine.

So, two mechanics positive feedback and I feel a lot more satisfied with my efforts. Did not have an oil presure light, possibly as I cranked the engine over 30-50 times manually. Before attempting start up and I had nothing id stay was obvious with lifters making noise.

Iv had it down a stretch of motorway and all seems well.

A successful rebuild. Thank you to everyone who's been part of it and followed it. Special thanks to Halftone, could not have done this without you. And I hope you have a well executed rebuild with no issues.

And thanks to both chaps at AutoLusso. Ned for having faith in me and making me start this myself and supplying the recon head, and to Pud for that extra back up and knowledge. And finally JON who I know followed the project closely.
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Absolute brilliant thread followed every entry with great pleasure, just need halftone to get up and running now !!
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Absolute brilliant thread http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/image...ies/thumbs.gif followed every entry with great pleasure, just need halftone to get up and running now !! http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/image...es/thumbup.gif
This AF owner wasn't going to give up. Halftone's motor will rise again.

As a battery charger is on a long wish list, I thought next best thing was a bit of detailing making the outside look as nice as the engine bay, along with the nice weather to show it off. Gona suprise the wife and pick her up from work in it as she doesn't know it's running yet (plus she mainly drives it while I'm left with a 7seater, I know, don't ask).
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A battery charger looks like a good investment giving the past 24hrs.

Iv Gunked and powers washed the rest of the engine bay this morning. Mainly on top of the wheel arches due to belt residue, the subframe and gave the body work a good wash too. Drivers side front wheel back on, and test drive. Just before setting off a neighbor who is an AA van mechanic passed and said it sounds well. That was releiving. Drove to a mechanic/mate I know, 1mile drive. Even though I'd run the engine approx an hour before driving there seemed to be a lot of smoke out the rear. High temp paint curing but still worrying to see. He said straight away it sound fine.

So, two mechanics positive feedback and I feel a lot more satisfied with my efforts. Did not have an oil presure light, possibly as I cranked the engine over 30-50 times manually. Before attempting start up and I had nothing id stay was obvious with lifters making noise.

Iv had it down a stretch of motorway and all seems well.

A successful rebuild. Thank you to everyone who's been part of it and followed it. Special thanks to Halftone, could not have done this without you. And I hope you have a well executed rebuild with no issues.

And thanks to both chaps at AutoLusso. Ned for having faith in me and making me start this myself and supplying the recon head, and to Pud for that extra back up and knowledge. And finally JON who I know followed the project closely.
Well done you got there in the end

No you can't have a job

Ned
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I don't mind saying I was pretty intimidated by the prospect of having to replace the head, once it was obvious the flaps had departed. I've done decades of amateur spannering, but this is challenging new territory for me too, due to the sheer amount of stuff hung off this engine, the electronics, plumbing, and awkward access, and it really is not the right time of year.

I think it's amazing you just got on with it and saw it through successfully, it says a lot about your determination and attention to detail.

I assume that all the driveability issues that made you start this thread are now a receding memory. I suppose you'll be doing it every winter now, to refresh that nice red engine paint ;-)
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One untimely postcript, I've just now been reading about a tendency of the waterpumps to leak from the bottom bolt unless silicone RTV is used on the threads. Apparently that bolt enters the water jacket, so pressurised coolant can force its way up the thread. If you find that coolant level drops slowly you may need to revisit that. Not a huge deal, since it's just a matter of taking the bolt out, putting a smear of sealant on the threads and bunging it back sharpish before all the coolant falls out. But of course the timing cover is in the way, and I think that means the the aux belt cover and wheelarch liner are too.

[Hopefully Ned or Dan will say if this is nonsense]
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If you where intimated then I don't know what I was. Don't think it's sunk in yet what iv actually done. No big deal for a mechanic I'm sure, but for us DIYers, I'm chuffed. I reckon I could do it in half the time next time or less, now iv got all the tools and parts ready.

Ned, if I was working in a garage environment from 8am-5pm I think I would do you proud

Wife was chuffed, came outta work with a big smiles once she saw that sloping red nose. Then a short easy coastal drive with the kids to get some fish & chips and enjoy the sunset. What more could you want.
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:-)) The best bit is that there won't be a next time, the bast*rd stupid things are gone AND the EGR.

Do you notice any difference in low-end performance, with no swirl flaps? Or do they just make fish and chips taste even better?
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Excellent thread boys, thoroughly enjoyed it

Nice support for each other and from other contributors

I may read it from the start again it was so good.

My son, and me before he came on the scene, have worked on and rebuilt cars for decades and can understand the sometimes steep learning curve us DIYers have to cope with.

Last edited by Verbout; 23-02-16 at 16:51.
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:-)) The best bit is that there won't be a next time, the bast*rd stupid things are gone AND the EGR.

Do you notice any difference in low-end performance, with no swirl flaps? Or do they just make fish and chips taste even better?
I'm convinced my ownership of the car I had two mashed up flaps already and one stuck in the head causing no issues. The only time iv been aware of it was when the final one snapped off, fell and flapped around in the head until it got stuck and then caused performance issue with little or no power available.

So THB i don't think I'm noticing much difference from before as I believe I was driving without three flaps already. Knowing that they are gone is a hugh relief, definitely making the chips taste better.
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