Clattery when cold
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: United Kingdom
County: Greater London
Turn the engine over with the injector leads disconnected until you get oil pressure light out on the dash.
Turn the heater on full and leave the cap off the header tank, this is to allow airlocks in the coolant to clear (I don't think there is a coolant bleed screw on this car - unless anyone knows better?).
Then reconnect injector wires and start. May take a bit of cranking for fuel to get through the HP lines.
Expect alarming top end rattling from the lifters, until they pump up. Any other abnormal noises need investigating.
Let it idle until warm, checking for oil, air, exhaust and water leaks.
Replace the header tank cap when the car gets to 90C, but before it boils. By then the thermostat will have opened and water circulation hopefully cleared any airlocks in the pipes.
Expect smoke from VHT paint curing. This can be quite a lot and last 10-20mins, and may continue to stink a bit for days.
Turn it off, then check fluid levels again. Check again for leaks, eg dropping oil.
Should now be OK to drive cautiously. Check brakes OK (you may get a bit of noise from rusty disks from standing, for a few secs). Check power steering OK. Check handbrake hasn't seized on from standing. After that, drive and check turbo operation.
You'll hopefully find a bit more power than when you had several valves leaking from swirl flap damage.
Remember that with the EGR blanked but no adjustment to the ECU maps, the MCSF light will come on at some point and an EGR failure code get stored.
That's it really. There's no run-in requirement with a recon head. Just keep a close eye on oil and coolant levels for a few days until you're confident all is normal. Probably a good idea to read the codes too, just to make sure no other codes are being hidden by the expected EGR-derived MCSF.
Last edited by halftone; 15-02-16 at 16:01.