**HOW TO** Change a V6 water pump.
A rumbling water pump necessitated changing it and being unable to find any specific instructions on the forum, I thought I would just do it and write somthing up.
Fairly easy job but you will need some specific tools, including a set of male and female torx sockets, a jack and one special tool, that you are going to have to make. The rest of your tools should be in your garage, if they are not, should you really be contemplating doing this job yourself? (I photographed all the tools I used).
So, here is how to...
1. Jack up the right front corner, axle stand it and pop the wheel off and remove the plastic inner wing to reveal the bottom pulley. Whilst up in the air, remove the big plastic undertray. Slip your jack under the sump and just nip the engine weight.
2. Pop the bonnet, Remove the induction pipes, making sure you remember where wires go. Drain the coolant from the left lower radiator hose. This will have a stupid Alfa clip on it, I cut mine off and replaced it with a stainless jubilee clip.
3. Now the hard bit. The aluminium engine mount bracket and the mount have to come off. The engine mount unbolts fairly easily using torx bolts and hex bolts. It is easier to get off if you jack the engine just a bit to relieve the load on the mount. the tough bit is getting the big bracket off. Loosen the hex bolt at the bottom from under the car. No need to remove it, the bracket is slotted. The 2 front torx bolts are relatively easy, although you might have to move the power steering pipes to get tools in. The back bolt is a *****! I made a special tool (see pictures) from a flat bar and the square from an old socket extension. It has to be narrow to get between the chassis and the casting.
4. With the big bracket off, you can slacken the belt using a socket ratchet in the tensioner, pop the belt off and get at the pump pulley.
5. Remove the pulley from the pump, they remove the pump from the block.
6. Re-assembly is as all the best instructions say just the reverse, however I made a crucial modification by shortening that pesky back bolt (see picture). This makes it mush easier to get back in. Remember to use a new gasket and seal it well. A new belt is also a good idea.
When I re-filled my engine and started it, I got a coolant error message on the trip computer. I think that it might have been caused by some sort of air lock as the fluid level dropped dramatically after the first running. Turning the enging on and off a few times cleared the message.
The job took me about 3 hours, not including making the special tool.