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Hope it helps save your frtont sub. You mentioned removal of inlet manifold. Which I believe is a pig of a job,you might like to check out throttle body and Egr removal and cleaning first there is a good post on here with pics showing how to strip down clean and service both. These items get full of black soot tar from the recycled exhaust and eventually block up the I M. P.s if you do down the removal option please do a wrtite up and pics we could all learn a lot from that. I think I read somewhere non here its easer to do whiles cambelt is off ?
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Hope it helps save your frtont sub. You mentioned removal of inlet manifold. Which I believe is a pig of a job,you might like to check out throttle body and Egr removal and cleaning first there is a good post on here with pics showing how to strip down clean and service both. These items get full of black soot tar from the recycled exhaust and eventually block up the I M. P.s if you do down the removal option please do a wrtite up and pics we could all learn a lot from that. I think I read somewhere non here its easer to do whiles cambelt is off ?
Thanks for the tip re. the sub frame. Will find it hard to get the time to get many of the jobs done between now and christmas but I'll see what I can do. Wife's Astra 1.9 CDTI is in real need of attention as it is overdue a timing belt and waterpump. It could also do with an oil change shortly and brake fluid flush. Her car runs just like mine ie lumpy on startup etc probably due to carbon build up in all the usual areas. The mechanic who fitted my tyres yesterday said that the 1.9 engines are renowned for carbon build up which eventually damages the swirl flaps. He recommended removing the inlet manifold and soaking in a TFR for 20 minutes and repeating as necessary until clean. Large parts of carbon would also require scraping off.

I don't know when I'll get the time so I'll have to draw up a list of maintenance on both cars and carry them out in order of importance.

On another note I seen this http://www.usedcarsni.com/2008-Alfa-...Down-119159784in Usedcarsni and thought it would be ideal for wifey. She completely agrees although unfortunately we are not in a postion financially to purchase.
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At yes. The 1.9 cdti is the same engine alfas 1.9 , many parts fit both engines and a lot fit your and my 2.4 and are half the price from vauxhalls. What is tfr . you mentionedf regeneration how will I know when car is doing it ?
I am trailing two stroke oil ar 1/200 mix at the moment . its supposr to cut the soot levels in half. Posts on here.
Buy basically you add 250ml to every 50 lts of derv. Plenty of post on here asbout the benefits
When mycar does regen i,ll make a note of mileage for next regen and post on here. The 2 stroke oil iss suppost to increase mileage between regens.
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Burrgany silver car looks good, think would be same price in UK. Might even be dearer.
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Well, it's been just over a year since I bought my Ti. I've done approximately 15k this year with nothing major to report. I haven't really been giving the car any attention lately and as such it is becoming just another car. Just coming out of February into the longer days I suspect most car owners feel the same about their car hence the large amount of cars changed at this time of year.

Anyway I haven't done anything maintenance wise since it's MOT so I will be looking to get it serviced anytime soon. Family life is extremely busy at the moment so I don't have much free time to look near the car.

I really want to get the gear oil changed as the torque converter seems to be getting a little noisier and it would give me piece of mind, although I'm unsure whether to tackle it myself or not. The converter has always been a little unrefined so it could be just my imagination that it's getting worse.

It still stutters a bit on cold start but always starts with one try of the starter button as long as I wait for the 'press start' instruction. I really want to get the egr valve cleaned and inlet manifold to help with this although I think this involves removing the timing belt again which I don't really want to do due to time constraints.

All the other points on the 'to do' list in previous posts are still required. I'll possibly get a chance this summer at some stage to get some of them done.

The accelera tyres (a hot topic on here) have actually performed faultlessly over winter with no scary losses of grip or feeling like I'm gonna be in a hedge shortly. The cars steering is feeling quite vague though so I really need to think hard about getting the Autolusso powerflex bushing upgrade parts and having them aligned by a firm here in NI. The more I look at the car the more I dislike how low it is on the Eibachs. The wheels look sunk into the arches and just look wrong so i'd be tempted to go back to standard Ti spec springs or if Autolusso get the Eibach version I might be tempted with those. I'd love to be able to afford a trip to England to have Autolusso work their magic on the car but it's not financially feasible or sensible.

So that's my year update done, nothing nearly as dramatic as I thought it would be before I bought the car and all in all I'm still pretty happy with the car. I do still miss my old E46 3 series though!
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Ok Guys, another update:

Over easter I took to servicing the car. I've done approx. 15k over 1 year since the last service so it was really due. The engine oil was thick black but the car has not burned a drop since last year, I haven't had to top up at all. A run with Wynns engine flush before draining the oil seems to help remove a lot of the crude. I also changed the air filter although this wasn't bad at all so I'll probably not change this next year.

The car has felt that it's been down on power lately especially low down below 2k so I thought I'd inspect the throttle body and egr valve. With 71k now on the clock I expected a choked egr and throttle body but this was not the case at all. The EGR valve was still able to work well with a thin film of oily crude over the intire insides and the same for the throttle body, certainly not the same as many on here have reported possibly due to the car never really being used for runs shorter than 15 or 20 miles and also due to it being redlined occasionally. The egr inlet into the manifold was quite choked though so I gave this, the EGR valve and the throttle body a good clean with egr cleaner which was a piece of **** to do. I've done this job on other cars and it can be a nightmare, the crude was quite oily so it just washed off with the cleaner. I inspected inside of the inlet manifold which doesn't look too bad so I'll leave the manifold strip down to next year.

I also took and cleaned the map sensor whilst I was at it which was boggin'. I can't be sure but I'd say cleaning this would probably have made the largest performance difference.

I then partially changed the gearbox oil as it has been whirring occasionally when changing. The whirring has now been elliminated so I'd say to all those doubters, get your q-tronic gearbox oil changed asap. Other manufacturers using the same gearbox and oil recommend changes at 30k miles. As I can't change the oil completely I think from now on I'll do a partial change with every engine oil change to keep the gear oil a bit fresher at least.

My washer jets haven't been working lately so I inspected them to find that something has blown out of the bottom of each of them allowing the water to flow into the drain instead of my window. I plugged these up again and all seems to be well.

I then checked the car over, I noticed some very minor subframe rust, certainly no or little worse than last year. There are a couple of brackets attached to the frame which are heavily corroded so i'll have to address these and then see about getting some protection on frame to help protect it a bit more. All the brake discs are outside of tolerance with low brake pads so this needs to be addressed shortly. I'm thinking of buying the pagid stuff from Eurocarparts as there is 30% off these at the minute and then wait 'till the pads are just about done which is likely to be a couple of months from now before changing.

Overall the servicing has brought this car back to life. It never felt like it had 200 horses before but now it feels like it has every one of them. The low down pickup is fantastic and pulls hard in every gear to 4k before changing up. The gearbox is still on teach mode after resetting the parameters so the changes are a little lumpy but much quicker than before and no weird noises either. The rough idle has settled. It starts at the press of the button straight away with little or no roughness and quickly settles to a very smooth rock steady idle which I've never seen on this car before, this is partially to do with running a double dose of millers fuel and injector treatment in the fuel in the week leading up to the service.

Overall I'm very happy with what I've got done and the improvements. A lot of the fixes I've done here I've used previous threads on this forum to find out how to sort them out so thanks for the help guys.

Oh and my mpg is up by at least 10% as well.

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I also get a warning message 'alarm system not currently available' when I switch the car off, the steering lock is not engaging. ( any ideas?)

Ok guys thats my initial view, I knew about most of the faults when I bought the car and got it for a price which reflects this so I'm not having a go at all the work which needs done. I am surprised that a car needs so much at 50K though. [/QUOTE]

Does the car have a MOT?
Dash warning light are a MOT failure alone
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The accelera tyres (a hot topic on here) have actually performed faultlessly over winter with no scary losses of grip or feeling like I'm gonna be in a hedge shortly. :
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I also get a warning message 'alarm system not currently available' when I switch the car off, the steering lock is not engaging. ( any ideas?)

Ok guys thats my initial view, I knew about most of the faults when I bought the car and got it for a price which reflects this so I'm not having a go at all the work which needs done. I am surprised that a car needs so much at 50K though.
Does the car have a MOT?
Dash warning light are a MOT failure alone[/QUOTE]

Yes, car has mot the tester could not have seen the warning cause the car wasn't switched off for the test. Also the warning is for a alarm system failure and doesn't point to a steering lock failure so he couldn't have known it was related to the steering lock. I've never known a tester to check steering lock before either even though it's a failure point.

Whilst resetting the gearbox parameters I checked the fault codes and does say there is afault with the lock solenoid.
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Ok, another small update:

After my last update the idle on the car had been getting worse. I was having to put millers injector treatment into every fill up to keep the idle somewhere near normal. The boost would also rise and fall creating minor surges when accelerating.

I had a colleague at work do a leak back test thinking the injectors were clogged. Number 5 (or 1 not sure) injector was leaking back marginally more than the others but it took about 10 minutes to fill the small jars so nothing to worry about there. He reckoned if it takes longer than 2 or 3 minutes to fill the jars the injectors are normally fine. Whilst he was doing that I noticed some water lying in the inlet manifold where the swirl flap actuators are. The water was bubbling as the car was revved. I had read a few threads on here about leaky injectors so I put the rough idle down to the pressure leaks

The car is up for it's mot at the end of the month. I didn't have the time to prepare it myself so sent it to a local mechanic. While he had the car I bit the bullet and asked him to remove and blank the swirl flaps explaining that it would be a proper pig to do.

Anyway he didn't have the car ready for me when he said he would. In fact he just started to look at it the day I was due to collect it. Luckily I was able to do without the car for a few more days but he still didn't have it ready! I told him I needed it that evening and offered to give him a hand. We finished the car around 8.30pm and once the fuel system was primed, fired it up. I think he was a bit skeptical about this work but when he seen and heard the way it idled we both agreed my problem was solved.

Now a week or so and nearly 400 miles on, the car seems like a new motor. The idle is rock steady the second the engine catches. The turbo boost is also rock solid with no surging at all. Low down pickup is similar to what it was if not a little sharper. The mid-range is fantastically torquey. And to top it all off, my average mpg has risen from 34mpg over a tank to 38mpg including 2 dpf regens probably due to dirt and soot from the work done. Can't beat that.

For MOT all I needed was 2 front tyres. This car is a pig on them, this being tyre numbers 7 and 8 in the 1 1/2 years I've owned the car. I think the wishbone bushes are going to be needed sooner rather than later, I can't be fitting tyres every 6 months or so!

I also got the alloys refurbed a back in June. They really set the car off again. I just went for a silver with a slightly higher metalic flake than the standard colour. Looks just perfect. I hit a small rock sitting out from a ditch a couple of weeks back and lightly damaged the two nearside rims. Not too bad although disappointing none the less.
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Ok, another update. This past week I have had to fit 4 more tyres at a very reasonable cost of £72 each all in (Acceleras). Fitted a new N/S/F wheel bearing, new N/S/R anti-roll bar tie rod / drop link, engine oil and filter change and full gearbox oil flush, the car is now at 84585 miles almost exactly 30k miles in my ownership.

The gearbox oil flush took much longer than expected. I had planned on a couple of hours to change the gear oil and the rest of the day filling in stone chips and attending to some minor scratches. In the end I only got the gear oil changed.

The process I used was to first loosen the filler bolt and then re-tighten to ensure I could refill with oil then I checked the level of the existing oil by letting the car idle whilst I removed the small screw inside the main gear oil drain. There was approx 100ml of oil came out. I then switched off the engine and drained the sump into a measuring container. I put the same quantity of fresh oil back into the gearbox. I then removed the gear oil cooler which was straightforward if a bit fiddly due to me not having a 3/8 ratchet which made using a 1/2" ratchet a bit tricky due to space limitations. The induction tubing gets in the way a little. I made up a small tool as per recommended by Xinoka http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-...l#post10455833 to hold a bit of tubing to the oil cooler to direct the oil into a container, but I didn't have a drill or metal bar to hand as he did so a bit of improvisation was needed. This took quite a while to come up with something that would work. I then started the car and selected R, N ,D, N, R, P with a couple of second increments to work the new oil into the torque converter and the old oil out. Once my container got to 2 litres I switched off the engine, put 2 litres of fresh oil into the gearbox and repeated the process 4 times. I refitted the oil cooler (again a bit of a faff), warmed the oil in the gearbox by idling the car for a while and then checked the level with the engine running. The first couple of checks the oil level was too low so I added 400 ml or so of oil and checked again. Eventually I got to the correct level with just 100ml of oil to spare!. Each time before checking the level I put the gearbox through R, N and D to work the new oil through the torque converter and to make sure the levels were fine.

I had bought 13 litres of oil thinking this was plenty but I probably could have done with buying 18 litres and flushed it a little more. The old oil was black and opaque, the fresh oil in the gearbox is now deep red and translucent if still a little muddy.

The tubing I was using to funnel the fresh oil into the gearbox was quite small and consequently it took an age to put even 1 litre of oil back in.

Before changing the oil the torque converter had started to grumble a little when asked to work hard. Now it's back to running silently and smoothly. A job well worth doing if for nothing more than piece of mind.
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Great informative reads for DIYers!
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Ok, another update. This past week I have had to fit 4 more tyres at a very reasonable cost of £72 each all in (Acceleras). Fitted a new N/S/F wheel bearing, new N/S/R anti-roll bar tie rod / drop link, engine oil and filter change and full gearbox oil flush, the car is now at 84585 miles almost exactly 30k miles in my ownership.
Why did you do the N/S/R anti roll bar link? Was it knocking and has this cured it?
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Ok, another update. This past week I have had to fit 4 more tyres at a very reasonable cost of £72 each all in (Acceleras).
30K on them must be doing something right for you to stick
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30K on them must be doing something right for you to stick
Yep, if I thought they were putting my life or my families life at risk by fitting them I just wouldn't do it. When the accelleras are perfectly acceptable (IMO) I, personally, can't justify spending 150% more on 'branded' tyres for a relatively small increase in performance which is never or rarely used by me anyway. I don't drive like a lunatic and try not to get myself into situations where I have to rely on excessive grip from the tyres to bail me out of trouble, it's worked so far. Also I take into consideration the grip from these 'cheap' tyres is probably equal or greater to the grip from branded tyres 5 or 10 years ago due to constant product development.

I have fitted cheap, poor quality tyres to previous cars in the past and promised myself to never do that again. It was a leap of faith to begin with going with the Acceleras. I was really going by feedback from this forum, if they weren't suitable for me I wouldn't have stuck with them.

I'd just like to ask everyone to respect my opinion on this and don't turn this thread into a tyre debate as I'm using this thread as a bit of a blog of my time with this car.

thanks

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Why did you do the N/S/R anti roll bar link? Was it knocking and has this cured it?
Yes, I was alerted to this by a guy doing the alignment approx. 1 year ago. It was only just starting to knock as well so I let it go. The mechanic prepping the car for MOT 7 months ago didn't detect any issues with it even though I specifically mentioned this to him. It went for it's MOT a week later and again it sailed through. When I asked the mechanic to check it last week it was completely shot. When I removed it from the car only the rubber boot was holding it together.

Due to the other fixes I made to the car I can't be sure what difference this has made but the rear definitely seems keener to follow the front into a corner now.
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Yes, I was alerted to this by a guy doing the alignment approx. 1 year ago. It was only just starting to knock as well so I let it go. The mechanic prepping the car for MOT 7 months ago didn't detect any issues with it even though I specifically mentioned this to him. It went for it's MOT a week later and again it sailed through. When I asked the mechanic to check it last week it was completely shot. When I removed it from the car only the rubber boot was holding it together.

Due to the other fixes I made to the car I can't be sure what difference this has made but the rear definitely seems keener to follow the front into a corner now.
Interesting. We have other posts running that are trying to find a rear LH knock (it never seems to be the RH). Can you describe the sound?
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Interesting. We have other posts running that are trying to find a rear LH knock (it never seems to be the RH). Can you describe the sound?
It is just a standard knocking of suspension components, it is easy to detect and sounds similar to worn front wishbone bushes AFIRC. It is a proper knocking and normally occurs over rough surfaces. It has been knocking for the full year but it mustn't of had enough play in it to be detected by MOT inspectors or it may have been the tension of the anti-roll bar when the car is fully on the ground preventing the movement being detected but when the suspension is moving this tension is probably released causing the knocking. The part is relatively easy to replace DIY and is quite cheap at around £15 per side. I didn't feel the need to replace both sides at the same time as the RH side is perfectly fine.
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Perhaps not our problem then. We are looking for a 'boingy' rattle similar to the spare wheel being loose.
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Ok, it's been a while since I've updated this thread. The car has now crossed 111111 miles yesterday with 57111 of them by me in around about 3.5 years.
Back in Nov '15 the front Spring perch broke leaving me without a car for a week or so. The upside of that is I replaced all springs for nearly new Lusso ones and fitted bilstein b4's all round, had a wheel bearing changed and front power flex bushes fitted (maybe not at the same time I don't fully remember when.). I had a mechanic do all this work as I couldn't spare the time. Then in June I had to replace the same wheel bearing! I think the mechanic didn't prep the hub properly before fitting and warped the bearing. I fitted the replacement myself as I was going on holiday the next week and gave the car a service. I've also fitted another set of front and rear tyres recently but I'm glad to say I believe the tyre wear problems are resolved.

The car is still driving well, the dpf is working well and doing its job. I've recently started dosing the fuel with millars which quietens the injectors and definitely improves refinement. I still enjoy owning this car. I occasionally flirt with selling it but nothing is enticing me enough at this stage. I've never owned a car this long before so it must be ok.




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Interesting write up, thanks.
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Well after exactly 4 years of owning this car I've given up on it and passed it on to a new owner. I think I've just got bored of continually having to fix something. Mid last year I decided to stop fixing things as they wear out as the car had been costing a lot on repairs and tyres. It lasted 6 months until I had to make the decision to put everything right or leave it to someone else. The car needed the following:
Exhaust mid-section
Both front upper wishbones
Replacement horn
Power steering reservoir
2 x front tyres
Timing belt and water pump
Oil and filter service
Gearbox oil flush

All this would have cost around £1000 in parts and some for labour. I was truthful about all the faults to potential buyers and priced it according. The new owner just fell in love with the car immediately and had to have it despite its faults!

I know a lot of the items listed are service items but if I had done this work it wouldn't have added value to the car.

My new motor is an E350 CDI coupe in red. If the new gulia turns out to be a stronger car than the 159 I might entertain one in the future but for now I'll be giving AR a wide berth.

Thanks to all on here for your help over the years. It was and is very much appreciated.


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That's all good info for potential owners.
In fairness to yourself you had it four years and possibly like myself you did not buy the best to begin with?
Old cars will need work and mostly the type of repair depends on how well it has been maintained throughout its life. I think you did most of it's maintenance

All the best with the Mercedes.
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Your right the car wasn't the best to begin with. But I did improve on all the faults to make a good car. Unfortunately the replacement parts also failed several times so I eventually accepted the Alfa build strength / quality is not cut out for my local roads. If it spent it's life on motorways and town roads it would probably last longer.

The e class is imoh a real step up in quality and refinement. I've forgotten what it's like to own a car that needs nothing done to improve it. The engine is smooth and refined for a derv, the gearbox is good and the driving position spot on.


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