thanks for your reply`s guys! think i may give CG a ring....
have searched for a guide on what to do,but cant anything, i know its a subframe off job, but not sure easiest way to go about it!
suppose i will just have to get on with it and see how things go!
Battery cage off
Intake pipe to manifold off
Ecu Bolts off doesn't need disconnecting
No need to drop coolant
Starter motor bolts to gearbox off and starter pulled back. Don't undo electrics or the bracket on top of starter.
Gearcables disconnected and cable holder off.
You may need to slacken exhaust off but won't need removing.
Gearbox oil drained then but plug back in
driver side suspension bottom arm drop to allow suspension to be pulled out a bit.
Drive shaft support undone 3 bolts to allow driver side shaft to be knocked out enough to clear gearbox.
Dog bones on engine and gearbox removed and the mount the gear dog bone bolts to.
Passenger side bottom suspension arm dropped and steering undone so hub can be pulled outwards then rearwards and tied out of the way.
No need to remove any brake disks or calipers.
No need to move the pipe that runs along passenger subframe.
No need to undo gearbox end of passenger drive shaft.
Remove 4 front subframe bolts
Remove 4 big rear sub bolts.
Slacken the 2 remaining sub bolts let sub rest on these. Do not remove frame completely.
Clamp clutch flexi and disconnect. Make sure slave cylinder pipe seal does not stick in quick release housing or you will not bleed clutch or get proper pedal.
Support under sump
Support under gearbox.
Undo all engine to gearbox bolts.
Carefully undo gearbox top mount and also remove the black bracket.
Move gearbox to passenger side of subframe and tie it back for safety.
There is enough room to do clutch flywheel and csc .
Lock flywheel to undo bolts these are very tight.
Brand new clutch and flywheel will not require special reset tool.
Refitting is reversal of removal.
I have a slave cylinder on eBay same user name. Also on eBay Catherine street motors is selling dmf and clutch genuine standard valeo cheep.
I would bleed clutch before complete refit to check all ok.
If your up to trade speed and tooled up. You will be looking at a 7 hour job.
By ramps I hope you mean 4 poster.
Careful on the bleeding it's so easy to blow the seals on a csc slave.
The biggest pain in the behind are the starter motor bolts and the top gearbox bolt which is hidden underneath the thermostat and ecu wiring loom.
Ignore e learn doing it that way would lose you a weekend.