"Project Halo" - The 159, Brera & Spider HALO DRL Project - Page 56 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1376 of 1445 Old 09-07-16 Thread Starter
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It's been done..... But if it's your first go then the question is can you figure it out faster than plastic can melt
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Do you mean as in, figure out where to aim the gun and pull in order to loosen it apart before I end up melting the edge of the housing? I have ordered a decent Black and Decker heat gun so it will have a low and high setting, obviously I will start of low, but not sure at what temps the glue will start melting.

What's the usual routine? Do you heat the whole rim and them begin target one area and try and pry away, edging around the seam until all has come away, or do you heat the whole rim so in a constant motion around the entire rim until its pliable enough to come off in one go?

Also how do you fix the Angel Eye rings into the housing? My set has a few fish stick looking tabs and plastic tabs, but not sure how that will keep them in place, was thinking of using the sillicone sealant I have for re-fixing the housing together to glue the rings into the lenses. Good idea?

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So now this has be done a fair few times, any consensus to whether it is better to use an oven or heat-gun to separate the lights? BTW, I have a set of brand new light clusters to use.
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Got to be better to use a head gun otherwise you risk melting the whole housing or warping it. My only gripe is the method in which you go about removing the lenses.
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(Post Link) post #1380 of 1445 Old 12-07-16 Thread Starter
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Got to be better to use a head gun otherwise you risk melting the whole housing or warping it. My only gripe is the method in which you go about removing the lenses.
What do you mean Joe?
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I figure its better to apply heat to a specific area under controlled timing that to stick it in the oven and risk melting the whole light, although maybe wrong.

My question / gripe was how to get the lenses off as I've never done this before. Is it literally a case of apply heat to seal and then pry away lenses? Or is there an art / some elbow grease involved with getting these apart?
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The problem I had was, the electric oven wasn't big enough but the Gas oven at my old house was. I just set the temp really low and let them warm up slower, checking them every couple of mins until they would pull apart. another method i've seen on YouTube is putting the headlight in a cardboard box with a hole cut out for the heatgun nozzle to pass through, so as to heat the box but not apply direct heat to the plastic until the glue is warm enough to pull apart. Patience is the key

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Yeah I've got an Aga which takes a million years to warm up.

I'll try the box method before targeting directly with the gun.

I've got to find a day when I'm free all day, no one to interrupt, and also a day when I'm feeling ballsy as I have yet to ever take the bumper off, let alone lights out and removing lenses, gluing back together, making sure all is connected properly, testing then being drivable for the next day.

Cheers.
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If you use superseal plugs for your connections to and from the lights you can always connect up the Controllers at a later date.

Trust me, bumper off, lights split, lights wired, lights re-sealed, lights re-fitted, bumper back on, is a fair old chunk of work in one day ... here's a link to what i mean.

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-...l#post11769602 ("Project Halo" - The 159, Brera & Spider HALO DRL Project)
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Yeah I might do that Matty, what exactly does the controller offer? Brighter during the day, dipped at night, sequences and turning off when the indicator flashes?

Yeah I know it's a lot of work, I just can never find consecutive days to work on the car which is a pain. Makes me lean towards getting new housings to be able to tinker with them for as long as I like. Your pics help, do you have any step-by step pics by any chance?
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I have already posted this on the Halo FB page. But will post it here in case anyone else has either had this or know what the problem is.

After wiring up one headlight cluster, I tested the light , only to find that the halos don't work, two things are troubling me:

#I have a red light on the PSU and not green
#The power feed to the PSU is supposed to come from the relay point 87, but I'm receiving power from 87A, but still no joy.

Chris has suggested that I remove the relay, to see if that is at fault, I shall hopefully have a look at this later today.

On a different note: splitting the headlight with a heat gun (at lowest setting) is the easier approach, but you do need two people to help with the splitting.
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As long as the power is switched it doesn't matter which pin you get it from
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Ok so my first error on my nearside Halo. Your thoughts top team?!
.
Centre (indicator ring) permanently dimmed.
Does not switch to 'off' when indicator is 'on'.
.
Occasionally will return to correct functioning on a longer drive but more likely to fail in town driving.
.
I'm thinking this is likely a heat issue? The nearside light cluster has less room for air to move around the control box which is fixed to the lower side of the light cluster. There hasn't been much in the way of rain so I'm guessing this is not moisture related.
.
Have removed in line fuses in the interim while I fault find.
.
Your ideas so I can cover as many bases as possible when I get stuck in.

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Pull the board, it sounds like either a heat issue or water ingress. May be salvageable so send me it back and I'll charge you what it costs to sort.
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Pull the board, it sounds like either a heat issue or water ingress. May be salvageable so send me it back and I'll charge you what it costs to sort.
Thanks Jabawokjay. Will be interesting to see what's happened. I'm guessing it's more likely my hinkey soldering than your fine boards. Will pull them when i get back in a couple of weeks and get back to you.
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No issue, I expect it will be an easy fix.
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Hello!

A new Project Halo devotee here... just reading up and making some plans... and clearing it with the Treasury...

Regarding new light units, I can find a reasonably priced set sourced from Germany (DEbay), but I wonder if the units have directional projectors, or will these Euro units throw the beam in the wrong direction?

They are "TYC" units - anyone come across this make before?

Cheers...
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Right, have started looking at the build of my halos now I have all my bits and seem to have hit an early snag. I've fitted the rings, no problem, but the wiring is properly stumping me.

I have no experience of electrics, so think I'm missing some (very) basics!

The wiki page on the wiring talks about crimping 'circular tabs', and 'female spade connectors' but I bought every thing on the list of parts and don't seem to have those? The really small metal connectors I do have don't fit my relay.

And creating a three into one earth is stumping me too!!

These are probably basic questions so apologies in advance - any guidance would be very gratefully received!
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Originally Posted by Jemboe View Post
Hello!

A new Project Halo devotee here... just reading up and making some plans... and clearing it with the Treasury...

Regarding new light units, I can find a reasonably priced set sourced from Germany (DEbay), but I wonder if the units have directional projectors, or will these Euro units throw the beam in the wrong direction?

They are "TYC" units - anyone come across this make before?

Cheers...
Oh yes, this is very much "a thing" they have LHD printed on them too you need ones for a right hand drive car.
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My new lights are TYC, some Taiwanese brand. I got mine from a uk seller - newvehicleparts.co.uk - for just under 60 each and they confirmed UK spec.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jemboe View Post
Hello!

A new Project Halo devotee here... just reading up and making some plans... and clearing it with the Treasury...

Regarding new light units, I can find a reasonably priced set sourced from Germany (DEbay), but I wonder if the units have directional projectors, or will these Euro units throw the beam in the wrong direction?

They are "TYC" units - anyone come across this make before?

Cheers...
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Hi folks

Wondered if anyone could give me a steer on my queries below? Keen to get my halos fitted and working! Thanks in advance!

Quote:
Originally Posted by emerycloth View Post
Right, have started looking at the build of my halos now I have all my bits and seem to have hit an early snag. I've fitted the rings, no problem, but the wiring is properly stumping me.

I have no experience of electrics, so think I'm missing some (very) basics!

The wiki page on the wiring talks about crimping 'circular tabs', and 'female spade connectors' but I bought every thing on the list of parts and don't seem to have those? The really small metal connectors I do have don't fit my relay.

And creating a three into one earth is stumping me too!!

These are probably basic questions so apologies in advance - any guidance would be very gratefully received!
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Hi folks

Wondered if anyone could give me a steer on my queries below? Keen to get my halos fitted and working! Thanks in advance!
hi emerycloth

Your spade connectors can come in two different sizes, you should have a 'female' connector that simply slides onto the 'legs' or 'male' connector your relay;

Spade connector (female)
375 Wide Female Spade VW Connector 12 10 AWG Yellow 25 Pack - The Repair Connector Store

I suggest when you have the correct size you both crimp and solder this to the cable. Do not solder to the relay.
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Thanks mate, understood. First phase complete, now moving onto the power supplies and soldering like mad!
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hi emerycloth

Your spade connectors can come in two different sizes, you should have a 'female' connector that simply slides onto the 'legs' or 'male' connector your relay;

Spade connector (female)
375 Wide Female Spade VW Connector 12 10 AWG Yellow 25 Pack - The Repair Connector Store

I suggest when you have the correct size you both crimp and solder this to the cable. Do not solder to the relay.
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Hi Jay,

I ended up buying the relay Matty mentioned but now I've got to that part of my build, I realise it has 5 terminals, not 4. Is this an issue or do I need to do something different? I've found a pdf of the spec of it and it seems to me that my positive feed the PSU (IN+) should connect to terminal 87, but I have an 87 and an 87A as well.

Should I leave that 87A not connected to anything, or do something else?

http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/user/d...024V%2010A.pdf

Thanks in advance (again!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by JabawokJayUK View Post
It will do the job but I cannot tell if it carries a parasitic load or not? You will need to ask. the cheaper style relays run a 555 timer that is always on so it is another device draining the battery. As long as this is not like that you are fine. The relay (expensive one) I spec'd uses a magnetic coil and holds the charge in that coil to physically disconnect the power, cutting its own power source off at the same time so it does not drain.

As long as the relay you choose does not drain power when its "off" you can use anything
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emerycloth View Post
Hi Jay,

I ended up buying the relay Matty mentioned but now I've got to that part of my build, I realise it has 5 terminals, not 4. Is this an issue or do I need to do something different? I've found a pdf of the spec of it and it seems to me that my positive feed the PSU (IN+) should connect to terminal 87, but I have an 87 and an 87A as well.

Should I leave that 87A not connected to anything, or do something else?

http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/user/d...024V%2010A.pdf

Thanks in advance (again!)
I couldnt fathem how to get the relay to work so I just left it out, Its not essential.
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