"Project Halo" - The 159, Brera & Spider HALO DRL Project - Page 5 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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This is awesome. I want it!
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Can you do one where the lights go from side to side like knight rider?
I will do much more Be patient.
Electronic is quite complex. It is my 4th week designing it. I have software core written. I still need few more weeks.
When done I will have complete sets with rings, electronic, cables and other stuff with detailed manual how to modify headlights. It will be not cheap. Full set will cost about 170GBP + shipping. (still much better than this one http://www.smrtuning.com/product_inf...roducts_id=523)
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Expensive, but cool enough to consider.

However I'd want someone to install them for me. No way I want to mess with my headlights...
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Would need to see it on a car to see how it looks against the sidelights, indicators and dipped/full beam lights
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When it will be ready, I will show you pictures and videos. Then you will fully understand the price
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Apologies if its a silly question, but did you have to cut the casing open to install these?
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When it will be ready, I will show you pictures and videos. Then you will fully understand the price
Look forward to seeing it
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Apologies if its a silly question, but did you have to cut the casing open to install these?
Not sure what you mean by "casing open", but I made some cuts:
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It's much easier and safe than unsealing!
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Could you wire them up so that the halo's are the sidelights?
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Not sure what you mean by "casing open", but I made some cuts:
ImageShack Album - 51 images
It's much easier and safe than unsealing!


I guess my issue with this is that these lights don't require any encouragement at all to fill up with condensation anyway. So by cutting into them is it not going to make them more susceptible?
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Mine don't mist up at all
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Mine don't mist up at all
They don't now..... What about your rear lights or side indicators?
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They don't now..... What about your rear lights or side indicators?
One of my rear lights had a slight bit of condensation back when it was snowing, nothing much though
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Very nice indeed! I'd buy some / get mine converted if I can just pay someone to do it!
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Any update with pics on the car?
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Still in progress
I had to redesign whole electronic project, as the previous one wasn't good enough. I got new parts for tests and now it works very smooth I have the electronic board ready for prototype production. I have nice case too. But there is one more issue - heat. I'm not sure if plastic case will be good enough. I may need to use aluminium one. Then I will need to design the PCB one more time... This is 10+ hours task.
In meantime I'm working on the software.

If you still wonder why it takes so long, here is the current PCB project:
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...V6 sound - pricelsess!
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Keep us updated would love to see pics on the car
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Nice project YonasH. What are you using to prototype your PCB on?
As for heat, perhaps a plastic box with decent sized heatsink - although you will know that!
Judging by the amount of electronics there, I would say you have designed it to allow programmable patterns, startup sequences etc
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Yep - hardware allow many, many things. There is 16 digital inputs, 2 analog inputs, 6 digital outputs and 6 analog (pwm) outputs for leds. Module will read all possible headlights signals and adjust the LEDs. Module will be configurable by user.
Software is done in about 30-40%.

Regarding heat problem. I don't have an idea how to mount heatsink in the plastic case, keeping it waterproof. I could build one for myself, but there is 13 peoples total in Poland waiting for that Solution need to be solid and easily repeatable.
The main advantage of plastic case is the price - ~1Ł. Aluminium is ~15Ł (incl. mounting accessories, precise drilling, more complex wires install, etc.).
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Can you not mount the items that require the heatsink - power regulators etc at the edge of the PCB, then mount the heatsink onto the edge of the pcb as well?
The pcb could then sit inside the box on pcb supports - glued to the plastic box and the heatsink will be in free air - so a plastic box will be fine.
Or, easier still, make the pcb the correct width to slot into a plastic box that has pcb slots moulded inside.
The hot items can then sit in free air, perhaps with clip-on heatsinks (TO-220 packages etc)

The 12v to 5v regulator (I assume there is one) will not get that hot.

How do you change the settings? Do you have to open the box each time?
My last module I built was a PIC based light controller for some special effects. I fitted a tiny 433Mhz wireless receiver in it and made a small - short range remote.
Saved me having to open the box each time.

Oh... box of wheel nuts under the spare wheel... thats what the rattle was!!!
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awesome, can't wait to see the final results. Will defintely buy it
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The configuration/setup need to be done usually only once. User will set brightness for each mode (standby, xenon, drl), indicator dimmer, animations, delays etc. All set using 3 buttons, 2 leds and manual
On road actions can be operated using 3 buttons. Some users will use existing Navi buttons (SOS, N, C). Others will install those in the fuse pocket next to the steering wheel. Actions will be configurable. It can be instant off, run animation, "Auto" disable.
The last one is my idea I'm parking my car on underground parking, and after installing the rings I would like to set lights switch into "Auto" mode and forget about it. The problem is that each time I will go out/in the parking, my xenon lights will turn on for half minute or so (it is not good for xenon lights). So there will be one small relay near the light switch which will force setting into "Off" mode for configurable amount off time after engine start. That solves parking exit. I will then configure one of the buttons to force it "Off" again (until engine stop) to solve parking return.
In both cases short high beam flash will disable relay and switch lights back to normal.

That "Auto" thing is optional. Module will fully work without it.



Back to heat. The 5V regulator is the biggest problem. I'm working with TO-220 during prototype production and it's getting really hot very quickly! I hope that production, SMD one will be better in heat distraction(?diffusion?).
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In my experience, TO-220 have handled the heat better than the SMD ones.
Can you not divide the load between a couple of TO-220's and divide the heat? Space allowing - maybe even 3.
I have started using small transistor sized 7805 regulators - one for each chip. Helps protect the IC's in the case of any power issues, and reduces the overall load on any one 5v regulator.

What is causing the heat - Is it the load of the led rings? I would certainly consider running multiple regulators to keep the heat down in the first place, rather than trying to deal with excessive heat from one.

Anyway, you sound like a man who knows what he is doing!
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This is awesome. I want it!
+ 1

Cheers
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Still in progress
I had to redesign whole electronic project, as the previous one wasn't good enough. I got new parts for tests and now it works very smooth I have the electronic board ready for prototype production. I have nice case too. But there is one more issue - heat. I'm not sure if plastic case will be good enough. I may need to use aluminium one. Then I will need to design the PCB one more time... This is 10+ hours task.
In meantime I'm working on the software.

If you still wonder why it takes so long, here is the current PCB project:
Hi Yonas,

I've designed a fair few circuits in my time and want you are doing is great but try and change the inefficient Linear Voltage Regulator for a DC/DC switching regulator otherwise you will end up with a lot of wasted heat to remove.
 
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