"Project Halo" - The 159, Brera & Spider HALO DRL Project - Page 44 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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These look great, my promise of not modding could be broken before i've even got a car!!
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I will sit back and wait for your resolve to break

Its like a can of Pringles though.... once you pop...
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Hi will these be available as a simple buy and fit as I couldn't do anything more technical than fitting them.Cheers Richard.
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Been dying to get my hands on a set since I seen the post, can you put me on the list??? ��
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Controllers are in stock and available, just email halo@jabawoki.com
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Sorry for the hijack but do new headlight clusters come with indicator bulb housings ? I managed to snap the lugs off mine tonight and cant find anyway to secure it so need a new one was hoping to wing one off the back off all these new headlight clusters being tinkered with
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Resize

Hi to all,

This is a quick info if someone needs to resize the controllers and put them on a headlight if already equipped with xenon lights. The control box of the xenon light is already in a place where Jay pointed to put the controllers so I couldn't put the controller on that place.

So I decided to reduce the size of the controller along with the box. Here is how it looks like. I also decided to use computer connectors so the whole thing can come apart if needed.
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(Post Link) post #1083 of 1445 Old 04-03-15 Thread Starter
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Although 10 out of 10 for effort the reason there was a large surface area around the NUD4001 components was to dissipate the heat they generate. Make sure you have no more than 1v of drop on the voltage between VIN and OUT1 or it will be a problem.
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Yeah, I stripped down most of the board that has been used to dissipate the heat, and turned down voltage to around 11V because of it. I also glued 1mm copper shims to the case of the NUD4001 led drivers with Arctic Silver™ Thermal Adhesive so it will drive the heat away.

I Will see in next couple of months how it will perform.
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The copper shims should do the job
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Hi are these available ready made.
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HELP!!.
Just fitted halo and they look great. However when I wired them up I find that the halos do not switch off?,
I have followed diagram and read over several times but can't see what's up.
When I tried them on a battery pack they switched of after 10 sec as relay supposed too however when wired to fuse box in car the halos stay on permently. Any thoughts?
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you have got the wrong switch live would be my first guess. or that live does not switch in your car for some reason? Can you test it? it was labelled 17 I think in the fuse box in the engine.
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Arh! . I did connect it to no 17 but not in same connector, poss issues will give it a go cheers.
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Originally Posted by JabawokJayUK View Post
Sorry Jay looking closer do you have a black and red wire going to fuse box no 17? Ive only used a single red wire from relay to fuse box.
Should it have a black earth cable to. If so where is it earthed too? .

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just a power +12 from that fuse box is required to switch the relay.
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just a power +12 from that fuse box is required to switch the relay.
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just a power +12 from that fuse box is required to switch the relay.
Cheers Jay. Halos now working and look mint.
However let the wife drive car home. As she followed I could see car and make sure all was well and the lights didn't dazzle.
I noticed only the left side halos dimmed And the centre halo stopped when indicating.
This doesn't happen when indicating right?.
I believe all the wiring to controller is correct, but the lights are now fitted and the boxes are sealed.
any suggestions?.
or do I have to strip car down and remove light again? nightmare!
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Ok, first rule of moding. Test before you seal things shut and bolt it all back together!!!!!

The first mode of operation is the start-up routine. It is the first portion of code that is run when the controllers are powered up. This routine lights each ring in sequence from 0% to 100% and back to about 80% from the inside ring to the outside creating a staged power on effect.

By default, the unit will run all 3 rings at about 80% intensity, this mode is selected by virtue of no lights being switched on, i.e "Daylight" mode.

When it becomes dark and you switch on your headlights (or the automatic headlight function does this for you, should your car have that feature), the controllers will detect that the driving lights are on and dim the rings to about 60% brightness for night time operation.

If main/high beam is engaged all the rings will be switched to full power 100% intensity for the period the main/high beam is active to provide maximum light from the front of the vehicle.

The final and most important mode of operation is engaged when the indicators are activated. When the indicator is sensed as on within the headlight, the controller will override all previous modes and switch the two outer rings to 50% while the inner ring is switched off so that the indicator can be easily seen. Regardless of what mode the DRLs are in, when the indicator is active this mode overrides it for safety.

If the units are not operating like this either the power is not getting to the IN's on the boards so it cannot sense the operation or the controller is faulty. Either way, if you bolted the units under the headlights its a bumper off job to fix!!! This is why we have advised numerous times on this thread to not locate the controllers under the headlights any more but instead to put them in a location accessible from under the bonnet.

You can test operation visually first and then by using a multimeter on the boards to see if they are getting voltage from the feeds in the headlights. I can ship you a replacement controller ahead of time if you think you need to take the bumper off so that you can just swap the part in one go and send one back if its faulty or not. What colour are your boards, green or black?

You sure she used both indicators while you were watching?

As for the dim, was that on changing to driving lights from side lights? double check on your drive then email me.


2008 159 TI 2.4 JTDM QTRONIC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JabawokJayUK View Post
Ok, first rule of moding. Test before you seal things shut and bolt it all back together!!!!!

The first mode of operation is the start-up routine. It is the first portion of code that is run when the controllers are powered up. This routine lights each ring in sequence from 0% to 100% and back to about 80% from the inside ring to the outside creating a staged power on effect.

By default, the unit will run all 3 rings at about 80% intensity, this mode is selected by virtue of no lights being switched on, i.e "Daylight" mode.

When it becomes dark and you switch on your headlights (or the automatic headlight function does this for you, should your car have that feature), the controllers will detect that the driving lights are on and dim the rings to about 60% brightness for night time operation.

If main/high beam is engaged all the rings will be switched to full power 100% intensity for the period the main/high beam is active to provide maximum light from the front of the vehicle.

The final and most important mode of operation is engaged when the indicators are activated. When the indicator is sensed as on within the headlight, the controller will override all previous modes and switch the two outer rings to 50% while the inner ring is switched off so that the indicator can be easily seen. Regardless of what mode the DRLs are in, when the indicator is active this mode overrides it for safety.

If the units are not operating like this either the power is not getting to the IN's on the boards so it cannot sense the operation or the controller is faulty. Either way, if you bolted the units under the headlights its a bumper off job to fix!!! This is why we have advised numerous times on this thread to not locate the controllers under the headlights any more but instead to put them in a location accessible from under the bonnet.

You can test operation visually first and then by using a multimeter on the boards to see if they are getting voltage from the feeds in the headlights. I can ship you a replacement controller ahead of time if you think you need to take the bumper off so that you can just swap the part in one go and send one back if its faulty or not. What colour are your boards, green or black?

You sure she used both indicators while you were watching?

As for the dim, was that on changing to driving lights from side lights? double check on your drive then email me.
Hi
not as clever as I think when it comes to moding myself ,but coxy kindly came to my rescue and wired my lights to controllers for me and I then tested halos which worked fine. However couldn't test lights on bench.
Don't now how I could test indicators without fitting to car first?
I should have checked all was well before putting bumper back on. DOH.

The left side lamp operates correctly dimming outer rigs and switches off centre ring.but right hand side all halos stay illuminated when indicating.
So its poss wiring to controller or the board itself?
I had the version 2 with green boards. I would be very grateful if you could supply another controller and ill swop it to see if faulty.
Thank you for your help once again.
Rob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robsterj View Post
Hi
not as clever as I think when it comes to moding myself ,but coxy kindly came to my rescue and wired my lights to controllers for me and I then tested halos which worked fine. However couldn't test lights on bench.
Don't now how I could test indicators without fitting to car first?
I should have checked all was well before putting bumper back on. DOH.

The left side lamp operates correctly dimming outer rigs and switches off centre ring.but right hand side all halos stay illuminated when indicating.
So its poss wiring to controller or the board itself?
I had the version 2 with green boards. I would be very grateful if you could supply another controller and ill swop it to see if faulty.
Thank you for your help once again.
Rob
Its actually remarkably easy to test them on the car, Coxy showed me how.

Put the left Halo headlight upside down on the right OE one and vice versa for the left. the original plug and wire now reaches just fine so you can run the halo lights ontop of the car without taking the bumper off or removing the original headlights

I appreciate that particular piece of information is a little late !!

Just email me and I'll send you a fresh controller over so you have one ready to go just in case. My money is on the actual connector coming loose during the fit (it happens if you snag a wire internally in the headlight) but if its faulty, just let me have it back and rebuild with the one I send to you.

You become an old hat at bumper removal..... Coxy had it down to like 5 minutes
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Originally Posted by JabawokJayUK View Post
Its actually remarkably easy to test them on the car, Coxy showed me how.

Put the left Halo headlight upside down on the right OE one and vice versa for the left. the original plug and wire now reaches just fine so you can run the halo lights ontop of the car without taking the bumper off or removing the original headlights

I appreciate that particular piece of information is a little late !!

Just email me and I'll send you a fresh controller over so you have one ready to go just in case. My money is on the actual connector coming loose during the fit (it happens if you snag a wire internally in the headlight) but if its faulty, just let me have it back and rebuild with the one I send to you.

You become an old hat at bumper removal..... Coxy had it down to like 5 minutes
Brilliant. Hindsight is a wonderful thing.
Thanks again. I'll PM you address details.
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Anyway of getting these ready to mount? xD not a very technical person here!! haha
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Perhaps for the right money....

Parts alone is £450-500

Offers in excess will be considered
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