"Project Halo" - The 159, Brera & Spider HALO DRL Project - Page 34 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Thanks jay

Hmmm. Good point, I think I like the idea of the controllers being tucked away under there, looks like it's not a huge job to get the bumper off once you've done it before

Thanks for the pic, very helpful.
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I've been away from the thread for 4 months and so much has happened!
Congrats to Jay to getting all this accomplished, it's pretty amazing!

If there are any sets of controllers left I would love to buy in, otherwise sign me up for the second batch.
I've got a quiet period at work for the next 2 months so would love to do this project.
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Anyone interested in putting there name down for a second batch should email me With their name, forum name & Address: halo@jabawoki.com

I will start a "second batch" list and when we get to 10 names as before we can organise a further production run.
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Got all the wiring up and 'off the car' fitting done!

Just need to get a chance to install it all now

Only thing that's gone wrong so far, i noticed today after wiring and installing everything is that when putting one of the rear light cover caps on, that one of the compartments ha deformed and isn't round any more God that black plastic deforms easily :/

The cap still goes on, but not as tightly as i'd like Not sure if i'll be able to heat it up with a heat gun and reform it round... might try. Otherwise my light isn't gonna seal as nicely as it should

- Luke

Halo pics - Instagram #project_halo
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Great Progress mate!

Are you referring to the dust caps on the headlights? I have noticed that some of these can spin rather than lock which is annoying, but i have not seen any deform.
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Quote:
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Great Progress mate!

Are you referring to the dust caps on the headlights? I have noticed that some of these can spin rather than lock which is annoying, but i have not seen any deform.
Yeh, it was the first one i did, which was in the oven a bit longer, i think it deformed in there.

It'll be ok
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Ahh, yes, that will do it I melted the lens cover on my dev headlight in the oven

Cooking is clearly not my thing....
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Started to connect up to the car and i've connected the power supply up and the Red LED lights up, not the green

I've double checked all the connections are correct and all looks fine
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have you checked to see if its outputting any voltage from the PSU?
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Nope, nothing :/

There's 12v going in, red light and nothing coming out...


Edit:
Actually seems now to be 3.45v coming out, but it doesn't change when I rotate the v adjustment screw :/

Last edited by manphibian; 16-08-14 at 16:49.
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hmmm, put a multimeter on the output and keep turning!!! there are 2 screws one for volts and one for amps. play with both and see where you get to, else it will be a faulty PSU so you will have to go back to ebay.
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Quote:
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hmmm, put a multimeter on the output and keep turning!!! there are 2 screws one for volts and one for amps. play with both and see where you get to, else it will be a faulty PSU so you will have to go back to ebay.


Put multimeter across both inputs and reads 12V, Put across both outputs and it reads 3.45V, but it doesn't move AT ALL as i turn the screw. Is there supposed to be any resistance as you turn the screw? Just feels unconnected to anything.

Looks like the PSU is faulty If there's 12V going in, there should be a green light... no?

What would cause the red light?
How can I test the psu? Can I connect straight to the + and - on the battery?

Last edited by manphibian; 16-08-14 at 17:49.
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The PSU is connected to the battery via the relay. You can connect it to the battery no problem. Yes it sounds like a faulty PSU.
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Quote:
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The PSU is connected to the battery via the relay. You can connect it to the battery no problem. Yes it sounds like a faulty PSU.
Dammit.

Connected straight to the battery.... Red light.

Is there a uk equivalent of these?
Last one took weeks to arrive

Last edited by manphibian; 16-08-14 at 18:48.
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Any "DC DC Buck/Boost variable voltage" converter delivering at least 2amps will be fine. ebay is full of them, this one was nice as it was housed in a solid IP55 case.
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5-28V-to...item51ab7d061a

That should do the job but you will need to put it in a case to keep it safe. Plenty of ABS plastic hobby boxes on ebay that will likely do the job so check measurements etc.
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Cheers Jay
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Another thing... what's the correct crimp terminal type to go into the fuse box on the car?

Used a Y shaped spade terminal that i had, but it doesn't really fit securely...


Sorry for all the basic questions
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I just used a standard male spade terminal. stuffed it in and it has held fine
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I have added a simplified wiring diagram to the instructions on the wiki. Also I have included the use of a 12v illuminated switch which I have myself just added today.

PowerSchematic.jpg

There are one or two times where you might actually want to switch off the DRL's so adding a switch in the glove box makes life a little easier. I chose to use an illuminated one, and connected it after the PSU so that I can easily see if the PSU is working or faulty just by looking in the glove box.

IMG_20140817_142021.jpg IMG_20140817_142037.jpg
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Confirmed Pre Orders
  1. lvgregory
  2. OGR4M

When we get to 10 names, payment will be requested and a batch will be created.
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OOoooOOOoooOOooohh it's all getting exciting - best figure out this wholesale site and figure out where the rings are...

Edit: I may or may not be a total idiot for not realising that you've very kindly provided links on your wiki to everything I need - inc. a suspiciously overpriced relay! D'oh!

Last edited by OGR4M; 22-08-14 at 17:59. Reason: I'm a moron
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haha, yes that's the relay I used but Zigerdfish provided specs on a much cheaper solution. All on the wiki my friend!
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Also, I have written on the wiki how to make relay yourself for a lot less money.
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Forgive me for just entering this thread but how much is the kit?
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