"Project Halo" - The 159, Brera & Spider HALO DRL Project - Page 33 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Seen the video of these just now, didnt even know this kind of thing was possible! Would love to have those halo lights on my Brera! Great work
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Wow forgot about this DRL project...

Hi JabawokJayUK
can you put me on waiting list when you make second batch of controllers?
I`m from Australia
and I am happy to pay for flight if I can get this sexy looking DRL on my 159
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!

goodjjp@hotmail.com
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I found a solution to problem when some outputs on the controller are not working. You don't need to send back to Jay it's very easy to fix. I will take some pictures tomorrow and post here.
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Thanks Razor, I think the issue is limited but a solution is very helpful! Can you add some details to the wiki?
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I made new page on wiki with the detailed explanation...

http://projects.jabawoki.com/index.p...roubleshooting

Last edited by razor_amd; 30-07-14 at 14:49.
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I was thinking/dreaming about this the other day - did you/could you/would you think about turning the rings into indicators?

I'm assuming it's ruinously difficult, but a friend of mine with DRLs fitted to his car has them set to turn orange and start flashing with the indicator.

Not asking you to 'sort it out', just wondering your thoughts, everyone?
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Its something I have been looking into and is possible with the new 4 channel controllers if a dual colour ring of the right size / type can be sourced. I have not yet found a perfect set of rings for the job, but the technology sold allows for it as a future upgrade. It would just need some different rings and new code (theoretically)!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razor_amd View Post
I made new page on wiki with the detailed explanation...

http://projects.jabawoki.com/index.p...roubleshooting
Razor it looks like some of the holes on the PCB are not plated through thus not connecting top layer to bottom layer, So what you have done is the right thing.
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Yes. I didn't know the right word to say, so I used plain English. Plating is bad so this way the problem is solved and controller will work as intended.

If someone wants, they can change the text on the wiki page for better understanding.

Thanks.
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This looks to be a manufacturing issue. All units were tested before being shipped so hopefully the issue is limited.

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Finished installing the rings into the lights today and sealed them back up

Few tips / notes:

I found 140 degrees for 3 minutes was enough to melt the glue.

Wrap some foil around the 3 lenses.

The black plastic is the softest part, be careful how you sit the light in the oven, as the fixing bracket tabs bend very easily.

I kept all the glue in place, and re heated it after finishing, and then fixed them back together, easier than cleaning it all out and re-gluing imo

Hope to finish the headlight wiring tomorrow
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hi friend my psy converter broke (( i buy new converter (analog) 1.2-37V 3Amp(LM2596T-ADJ/NOPB) F 150 kHz as a temporary replacement until the arrival of the new
Next problem with controller. I think I broke it... I removed the plastic Pins and just soldered wires after i apply voltage and controller doesnt work. how can I check it works or not. phased diagnostics
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right now i tested my controllers good work... I check input voltge 11v otput voltage after converter 9.95-10.2V to controller, voltage out to rings out1 8.37-8.38, out2 8.38-8.39 out3 8.62-8.63 Its NORMAL Voltage or NO??
Controller not hot
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Your Voltage to the controller is too low. up it to 11.5v That is the voltage the controller needs.

You should have about 10.2 @ each output for normal operation.
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Can you also confirm that you are driving the rings direct, and have removed the in-line voltage regulators that come with the rings? (small black boxes connected to each of the rings) ?
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before connect controllers I set output voltage 11, after connect cotrollers have output voltage 10. I think I set the voltage 11 after connect controllers, influence undervoltage. Yes Controller -> Rings without small black boxes connected to each of the rings.
as I understand 1)Input voltage to controllers 11.5V 2)output to rings 10.2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigerdfish View Post
as I understand 1)Input voltage to controllers 11.5V 2)output to rings 10.2
Yes.
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Finished wiring the lights up, and looking at the power supply wiring next,

on reading through, i can't work out what the super seal connectors from the power supply connect to.....?
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The super seal connectors are used between the PSU and the lights so that you can remove the headlights and leave the PSU and wiring in place

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Quote:
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The super seal connectors are used between the PSU and the lights so that you can remove the headlights and leave the PSU and wiring in place

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Gotcha, thanks
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Hi All

Just thought I'd share this link with everyone. I'm not involved with the project because I'd only f*** it up with my electrical sausage fingers but the looks a good deal for people joining:

Alfa Romeo 159 2.4 JTDM Headlamps
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buy a set, have a go, what's the worst that could happen


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buy a set, have a go, what's the worst that could happen


Things would go wrong... what if I accidentially created Skynet and my car became the first Terminator?? these are the types of things that worry me when touching electronics. I am a very good cook though so the splitting wouldn't be a problem
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Can anybody show me where it's possible to fix the controller box to the light housing? Can't see without taking the lights off where there would be space underneath to fix it... Would like to get everything fixed neatly to the housing before attaching to the car

Thanks
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The fit underneath towards the outside of the car. One point I would just raise though, in this location, if your wiring goes bad, or if the controller fails its a bumper off job to sort it out..... if it was placed "near" the headlight but was still accessible from the top, you would not have the remove the bumper unless a ring failed.
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