"Project Halo" - The 159, Brera & Spider HALO DRL Project - Page 29 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razor_amd View Post
I made my own 12V 10s off relay. If someone is interested, let me know, I can post schematic. Parts are under 10. I glued it all together with "DC/DC Converter PSU" all ready to install.

http://s6.postimg.org/u956bw1k1/dsssdd.jpg
http://s6.postimg.org/e9misc5i9/board.jpg
http://s6.postimg.org/8o03oa4td/whole_set.jpg
Nice solution.
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I'll have the scehmatics please coxy and the parts!
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I'll have the scehmatics please coxy and the parts!
It's not me that has them.

You need to ask Razor
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Here is everything you need to build

http://s6.postimg.org/vdzqo6hgh/scheme2.jpg

R1 - 6.8 Ω
R2=R3 - 100 kΩ
D1 - 1N4007
T1 - 2SD892 (Darlington NPN transistor)
C1 - 100μF/25V

alternative (if you cannot find 2SD892 transistor you can use one below)
T1 - BC517 (this one has higher hfe than 2SD892, so you also have to change capacitor)
C1 - 33μF/25V

BROWN - ignition (+12V)
GREEN - to relay (No.85)
RED - constant power supply (+12V)
BLACK - ground (-12V)

Buy one 4-pin car relay (NO-normally open)
http://www.reuk.co.uk/OtherImages/automotive-relays.jpg
http://www.reuk.co.uk/OtherImages/4-...tive-relay.jpg

Bring constant power to relay pins No.86 and No.30
Relay pin No.87 will give power (+12V) to DC-DC converter when ignition is ON and 10s after ignition is off.

I hope I made this clear enough for you guys.

Last edited by razor_amd; 25-05-14 at 19:17. Reason: I added another diode to protect the circuit.
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Hi razor_amd,

I would stick another diode (1N4007) in the brown wire ignition (+12V) to your circuit.
This would do two things

1. Protect you circuit from reverse transients.
2. Stop the capacitor C1 from discharging into the ignition circuit loads which can vary considerably. you may then need to alter the component values to get the 10s

 
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Yes, thank you for your input.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razor_amd View Post
Here is everything you need to build

http://s6.postimg.org/8cwfgqsip/scheme.jpg

R1 - 6.8 Ω
R2=R3 - 100 kΩ
D1 - 1N4007
T1 - 2SD892 (Darlington NPN transistor)
C1 - 100μF/25V

alternative (if you cannot find 2SD892 transistor you can use one below)
T1 - BC517 (this one has higher hfe than 2SD892, so you also have to change capacitor)
C1 - 33μF/25V

BROWN - ignition (+12V)
GREEN - to relay (No.85)
RED - constant power supply (+12V)
BLACK - ground (-12V)

Buy one 4-pin car relay (NO-normally open)
http://www.reuk.co.uk/OtherImages/automotive-relays.jpg
http://www.reuk.co.uk/OtherImages/4-...tive-relay.jpg

Bring constant power to relay pins No.86 and No.30
Relay pin No.87 will give power (+12V) to DC-DC converter when ignition is ON and 10s after ignition is off.

I hope I made this clear enough for you guys.
Razor, can you add this guide to the wiki please?

--- major project update coming in the next few days people ---
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--- major project update coming in the next few days people ---
Cool Getting ready to start butchering headlights
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No problem. I will add this guide to the wiki.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rjc_147 View Post
Hi razor_amd,

I would stick another diode (1N4007) in the brown wire ignition (+12V) to your circuit.
This would do two things

1. Protect you circuit from reverse transients.
2. Stop the capacitor C1 from discharging into the ignition circuit loads which can vary considerably. you may then need to alter the component values to get the 10s

I chaged the scheme and added another diode to the brown wire. Thank you for your input.

Last edited by razor_amd; 25-05-14 at 18:03. Reason: Changed scheme
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Well, its been a couple of weeks since I last updated this thread so here is where we are at:

I have the first two advanced prototypes of the new design in my possession and have spent the weekend building a programming and testing jig and sorting the code.

There has been a few hurdles to get over, but the new design is awesome and benefits from a faster ATMEL controller so it helps with PwM.

IMG_20140525_095149.jpg IMG_20140525_095200.jpg

This is my programming and test jig. Its a bit rough but works a treat

IMG_20140524_113239.jpg IMG_20140524_142614.jpg
IMG_20140524_142606.jpg IMG_20140525_221527.jpg

Now that the code is updated, the prototypes are in and working, all that is left for for me to run them at full power for a couple of days to make sure there are no heat issues and then order up the production set.

We are "roughly" on track in terms of ETA for delivery, but there was an issues where one of the key components was out of stock in the UK so I had to bite the bullet and order them for the US and have them express shipped at a huge cost!! They are here now though so it should not have delayed us much if any.

I will update you all with more progress once I get the ETA on estimated delivery of the final units.

NB: gruvX, Alecci & WiSE. Can you email me to confirm your still interested so we can sort payments etc please?

Thanks!


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Ok, just updated the project documentation on the wiki to include a wiring guide and ring installation guide, courtesy of Coxy!
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good news
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Good supply of Honey roasted Cashews you have there

Thanks for the update and thanks to Coxy for the guides... Can't wait! Although i've read the wiring guides dozens of times and still have no clue what i'm doing

Quick, possibly stupid question about the Headlight wiring section.... Are these wires inside the headlights so it can be done on the spare units before everything else? Or are these wires coming from the car wiring in the engine bay going into the lights, so they have to be done in situ?

Last edited by manphibian; 26-05-14 at 08:04.
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All inside the headlights mate. nothing impacts the car in the build process until its time to do the install of the headlights & PSU into the car.

The Cashews are being superseded by a Pistachio desire at the minute!
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All inside the headlights mate. nothing impacts the car in the build process until its time to do the install of the headlights & PSU into the car.

The Cashews are being superseded by a Pistachio desire at the minute!
thanks!
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Ok, just updated the project documentation on the wiki to include a wiring guide and ring installation guide, courtesy of Coxy!
As a point of note, any of you can register and edit that documentation easily so please fee free to do so!!! Add, change, make clear!

It will benefit all of us...
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Ok folks, I am happy with the way the new units are running so I have pressed go on the main order. The 40 production units will be manufactured over the next couple of weeks!

I am currently looking at my code to see about adding a thermal shut-down / failsafe mode as if you put too much power from the PSU into the controllers, the extra power is converted to heat. Too much heat can damage the units so getting the right power level in is key. Especially as the PSU's are adjustable up to about 30v !!! You only need 10 - 11v (I'll measure it 100% on one of the new sets of controllers for you all) total from the PSU's.

If I add a fail-safe to the code it will prevent people blowing them by putting too much power through them at least.
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The LED rings ordered are equipped with voltage stabilizer in the little black box, the output is fixed on 9.6V for the rings, no matter the input voltage, and we need to cut them off for the electronic control of the brightness of the rings. So I think about 10-11V is the right choice. If you want, I can help you measure current consumption for the rings, just let me know...
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The LED rings ordered are equipped with voltage stabilizer in the little black box, the output is fixed on 9.6V for the rings, no matter the input voltage, and we need to cut them off for the electronic control of the brightness of the rings. So I think about 10-11V is the right choice. If you want, I can help you measure current consumption for the rings, just let me know...
Thanks Razor, its not so much the amount of v I need as that is known to me (9.6 @360-400mA per ring + 1-1.5v overhead for 6 rings + 2 controllers)

The issue is the LED drivers & IC will discard excess voltage & amps by converting it to heat, so if you put 14v in, the rings will be fine and the controllers will get rid of the excess ok, but if you do this for a long time on a hot day they "might" fail.

I was just thinking of adding some code that read the IC's internal thermistor and if it saw say 70 degreesC of internal heat it shut the rings off. I may not do it as if I get the temps wrong it could just stop the rings working on a hot summers day!!
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Quote:
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Ok folks, I am happy with the way the new units are running so I have pressed go on the main order. The 40 production units will be manufactured over the next couple of weeks!

I am currently looking at my code to see about adding a thermal shut-down / failsafe mode as if you put too much power from the PSU into the controllers, the extra power is converted to heat. Too much heat can damage the units so getting the right power level in is key. Especially as the PSU's are adjustable up to about 30v !!! You only need 10 - 11v (I'll measure it 100% on one of the new sets of controllers for you all) total from the PSU's.

If I add a fail-safe to the code it will prevent people blowing them by putting too much power through them at least.

Cool, my rings arrived today

Haven't got the PSU yet, how easy is it to adjust? Is it easy to have it set wrongly to 30v?
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You have to adjust it with very thin screwdriver, it's very easy to adjust, and it's very precise too. You just need multimeter to measure output voltage and that's it. You cannot set it wrongly accidentally, the holes are very small, so no worries.
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You have to adjust it with very thin screwdriver, it's very easy to adjust, and it's very precise too. You just need multimeter to measure output voltage and that's it. You cannot set it wrongly accidentally, the holes are very small, so no worries.
In that case i wouldn't bother with the thermal cut out... might be more trouble than it's worth imo
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Blimey reading this thread is confusing now but the bits are slowly arriving so lets hope it all becomes clear when I'm ready to start
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Dont worry about it mate, its all straight forward plug and play. The hard works all be done!
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Jay,

I've ordered mine and I'm looking forward to baking some headlights like Nigella. Two questions though:

Is there a switch on these in the unlikely event that I don't want to look fly? If not is it easy to add?

And, do the rings dim with headlights do or stay the same?

Thanks, looking forward to fitting them.
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