**HOW TO** "swap your power steering pump".
I swapped the power steering pump on my 2006 3.2 Q4 Brera at the weekend and if you are interested, this is how it's done;-
Firstly, this is no small job and you will need an extensive tool kit, including a full socket set and a full set of female and male Torx sockets, Allen keys, spanners a trolley jack and axle stands as well as the usual screwdrivers and pliers etc. A special tool for the hose clips would be useful and the manufacture of a special tool to remove the engine mount might also be required (see operation 7).
Expect the job to take 2-3 hours off and 3-4 hours on. Bear in mind that if you are going for the reconditioned pump option, the car will be off the road and immobile for a week.
To get the pump off;-
1. Using a trolley jack, not the car jack, jack up the right side of the car and remove the road wheel. Chock the car under the chassis and remove the jack. Remove the plastic inner arch and the plastic dust shield. Loads of phillips screws and torx fixings
2. From under the bonnet, Remove the Oil filler cap, dipstick and silver plastic cam cover. It just pulls off despite feeling like it's going to break. Remove the induction pipes and wires. I also removed the air box, this was a big mistake as it is a total ***** to get back. Don't do it unless you need to The SS hose clips are really nasty to remove and worse to replace without the special tool.
3. Remove the PSP oil reservoir after first draining the fluid. many people on this forum have already told you how to do this. Flush it out well and set aside, unless you are fitting a new one.
4. Remove the low pressure oil feed pipe to the pump. There are a couple of plastic clips and a hose clip on the pump as well as a bracket. Totally remove the pipe as it will get in the way later.
5. Disconnect the high pressure oil pipe banjo fitting on the pump. and shove the pipe out of the way. Don't lose the copper washers.
6. Remove the metal and plastic bracket holding the small water pipe that runs between the pump and the exhaust manifold. This will allow the pipe to move and will aid pump removal.
7. This bit is optional but will make the operation so much easier. Remove the plastic undershield and jack the engine under the sump just enough to take the weight. remove the RH engine mount and the big aluminium casting on the block. The rear most fixing for this is a ***** to get at and you might need to fabricate a special tool by welding a socket to a bar, as I did. Also, you will have to jack the engine more to make space for this bolt to come out. To totally remove this part you will also need to remove the bolt from the bottom of the casting, access fromm inside the wheel arch, where the dust shield was removed from earlier.
8. Get some paper and draw out the run of the drive belt, then using a standard socket ratchet, release the tension on the drive belt by putting the square in the square hole in the tensioner bracket and rotating it against the spring. (this can be done from below the car if you have not removed the engine mount and associated casting). Remove the drive belt (easier with 2 people). You can't totally remove the belt without first completing operation 7 but again well worth the effort whilst you are in here.
9. Using an Allen key, remove the 3 bolts holding the pump to it's bracket. The 2 bolts on the pulley side are accessed through the pulley and it might be necessary to modify an allen key by shortening it to get in. (again, so much easier with the engine mount removed). Let the pump drop as far as it can once loose. It won't come out yet. It will pour oil on your drive so put a towel down or a catch tray.
10. Remove the pump bracket from the block by removing the 3 torx bolts.
11. The pump will now worm it's way out of the engine bay along side the exhaust. Be patient and work it, it will come out. Be prepared to lose some skin and squash coolant pipes to get it out. If you didn't remove the dipstick, you will regret it now!
12. As all the books say, replacement is the reverse of removal. First check the new pump for plastic bungs and remove them. Then check the high pressure outlet. The face of this should be clean and free from paint. My pump was reconditioned and they painted this face. It must be clean for the copper washers to sael. If they have painted it, remove the paint with a knife blade, making sure not to get bits in the oilway. Worm the new pump in, connect the water pipe bracket, attach the mounting bracket and fit the pump using the allen bolts. I don't have torque figures for these parts so just do them up F*****G tight!
13. Fit a new belt using your sketch for guidance, fitting the old one is just stupid! Tensioning it is tricky and best done with 2 people. I found that leaving the water pump pulley to last was the best way to go. Once fitted, I just blipped the starter to seat the belt. Don't let the engine start as you don't have any oil in the PSP.
14. Refit the engine mount and the big casting. I chopped 10mm off the end of that nasty rear bolt and it fitted much better. Don't fully tighten the bolts till the jack is removed. With the jack out, grab the inlet manifild and jiggle the engine to seat it, then tighten the bolts. Refit the under tray.
15. Refit all of the oil pipes. I binned the Alfa hose clips and opted for some easier to fit SS Jubilee clips.
16. Refit the induction system. I changed the air filter whilst I was at it. Refit the cam cover, oil filler and dipstick.
17. Refit the inner arch plastic, dust shield and roadwheel.
18. Drop the car back on the road.
19. Fill the reservior with oil and crank up the engine. Slowly turn the steering from left to right, avoiding full lock to bleed the system. You could do this with the oil return pipe removed and drive out any old fluid, but be prepared for a gush of oil and a reservoir that empties really quickly. Again, better with 2 people, one in charge of the oil and one for the off button.
20. Slam the bonnet and drive off into the sunset. Simples.