LEDs Advice for the 159 - Page 9 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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They must be ok as mine are not producing any errors. How do you switch yours on? Mine are always on, so already on when starting the car.
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Hi Alex, I am not sure anyone on this thread has done a full canbus type, like for like replacement with LEDs yet. I know one guy had done a full LED conversion, but took the "additional resistor" road to do it, which is what we are trying to avoid in this thread.

I posted a link to a site that had a series of like for like canbus replacement options, but a total rear end swap would be circa 120 so as far as I am aware, no one has tried it yet

PS, its on my Christmas list, but many more purchases are ahead of it at the minute!
yeah, I suppose it wouldn't come cheap! Maybe one could start with indicator and brake lights, still not sure whether they have the same amount of lumens though..
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I had a look at the ohms of the current and the old LEDs.

13 x 5050SMD LEDs = 89 Ohms - Work OK
5 x 5050SMD LEDs = 149 Ohms - Work OK
24 x LEDs = 248 Ohms - Can-Bus Errors

I don't have an 8 LED side handy (as they are in the car now) so if anyone can put a DMM across one if they have it spare that would be useful!

Also, if your feeling generous and you have a working set of the 24 LED sides, could you grab one out of your car, put a DMM across it and let us know what Ohms it reads? Pretty Please?


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Originally Posted by JabawokJayUK View Post
I had a look at the ohms of the current and the old LEDs.

13 x 5050SMD LEDs = 89 Ohms - Work OK
5 x 5050SMD LEDs = 149 Ohms - Work OK
24 x LEDs = 248 Ohms - Can-Bus Errors

I don't have an 8 LED side handy (as they are in the car now) so if anyone can put a DMM across one if they have it spare that would be useful!

Also, if your feeling generous and you have a working set of the 24 LED sides, could you grab one out of your car, put a DMM across it and let us know what Ohms it reads? Pretty Please?
It's just a matter of tweeking the current on these LED's to get them to work without CAN bus errors.

As Jay says if we measure the reistance of the LED module it's just a matter of Ohms law to work out what resistor should be soldered (piggy backed) to make the module error free

Care should be taken to make shure you don't exceed the power rating of the resistors otherwise they will get very hot and probably fail or even worse melt the surrounding plastic

For example with the 24 x LED, you can place 4 x 1000 Ohms surface mount resistors across and on top of the existing resistors. This will make the total combined resistance of around
124 Ohms with each resistor rated at > 0.2Watt. You can try these

MULTICOMP|MCPWR06FTEO1001|RESISTOR, 1206, 1K 1%, 0.33W | Farnell United Kingdom

If someone has a go I would be interested on the outcome
 
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I confess I'm a little lost on all this! I think I just need some things to work...

The thread is getting pretty long - I wonder if it is worth consolidating the information so far into one post, with details of the good, working options for each lighting area of the car. And then also suggestions for those yet to be cracked - the dipped beam H7s for example.
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The thread is getting pretty long - I wonder if it is worth consolidating the information so far into one post, with details of the good, working options for each lighting area of the car. And then also suggestions for those yet to be cracked - the dipped beam H7s for example.
Hi mate, it is all consolidated back into the very first post once we make some headway on each of the subject areas, but the R&D aspects are left in the thread for those that want to play

Check back to page 1 to see where we are at, and if you think I have missed any salient points, let me know and I will update accordingly.
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Hi mate, it is all consolidated back into the very first post once we make some headway on each of the subject areas, but the R&D aspects are left in the thread for those that want to play

Check back to page 1 to see where we are at, and if you think I have missed any salient points, let me know and I will update accordingly.
Yes, I'm the person that didn't go back and re-read the first post...!

Good job!
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On the basis of the numbers above, I've ordered the appropriate 0.6W resistors to reduce the 24's from 248 to roughly 140 ohms, and my non-working 8's from 220 to roughly 140 ohms.

I'll update to let you know how I get on and post details once I've proven my Physics GCSE was worthwhile all those years ago.

I'm a bit hacked off that this is necessary on "error-free" bulbs, but it's all good fun. The build quality on some of these is... err... amateur
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proof of concept ...no more can bus errors on the 24's

330 ohm maplin resistor across bulb terminals. DMM reading of bulb = 141 ohms (248 without additional resistor). Cost = 24p

330Ω to 910Ω Metal Film 0.6W Resistors : Metal Film : Maplin Electronics

No real need to solder as the resistor wires just push into small holes in the terminals and are fairly secure, but I will do for good measure.
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was looking at replacing my rear indicator bulbs with the Amber LED sets on Ebay. The Error free ones are 20 though (an orange 21w bulb is 2).
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CANBUS-382...45204617912494

The non Error free LED sets are around 10 from UK or 3 hong kong, but with the resistor mod it might be a worth a go, and saving a few pennies in the process.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-24-LED-...item518bef5795

Tight wad ?
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I put my 13 LED clusters in the number plate lights tonight, after having had a bit of a trauma trying to replace the main beams at the front.

Pictures to follow tomorrow night, however first impressions were that they were not too bright as I'd originally feared. Nice light - clear rather than white - without too much illumination on the road.
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Managed to grab this on arriving to work. Really pleased with the result. Just need to tackle the interior lights next. For the life of me I cannot get the front dome off so I will be attending a local owners meet and finding someone who can.
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Managed to grab this on arriving to work. Really pleased with the result. Just need to tackle the interior lights next. For the life of me I cannot get the front dome off so I will be attending a local owners meet and finding someone who can.
Get a set of Bojo bars from eBay. They are worth there weight in gold!!!!
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proof of concept ...no more can bus errors on the 24's

330 ohm maplin resistor across bulb terminals. DMM reading of bulb = 141 ohms (248 without additional resistor). Cost = 24p

330Ω to 910Ω Metal Film 0.6W Resistors : Metal Film : Maplin Electronics

No real need to solder as the resistor wires just push into small holes in the terminals and are fairly secure, but I will do for good measure.
Good effort mate! Will update the 1st post with your mod.
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Fitted the 8 way LED front side lights today and they go just right with the 55w 5000K HID's.
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proof of concept ...no more can bus errors on the 24's
1st post updated with fix and images mate. nice work.
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So has anyone had any luck with H7's?
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I ordered a set of 5000K Ring Super Blue Halogen bulbs of eBay the other day for main beam (H1) so when they arrive I will let you know what they look like. I also ordered a set of 100w 3000K Rainbow halogens for the fogs (H1) at the same time so will post some pics once its all fitted. TBH, I am not looking forward to fitting the H1 mains as in the 2.4 20v engine bay there is no room to get your hand behind the main beam.

Anyone got any pointers?
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I had to give up (1.9) and take it to Halfords. It took the chap 15 minutes to do both, and he was used to working with them (used to work at Avanti in Ipswich). I just lost too much skin trying to do them myself.

One thought I had - can you easily remove the headlight unit? There appear to be two retaining screw on the top but I'm unsure if there are any more below.
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Ok, 4 hours, 1 set of H1's and 2 sets of H7's later. It still looks crap, LOL!

To change the mains is one hell of a mission, but not impossible, there is a knack, that took me 3 hours to learn, and the 30 mins for each new set of H7's I tried, none of which look any better than the stock halogens! The H1's I ordered were wrong, as a H7 came out of the unit, not the H1 as informed, so I ran down to my local motor trade shop and grabbed a set of ultra blue H7's for a tenner, installed one, and couldn't tell it from the original! So ran to halfords and bought some Ultra Blue's for 20 quid, back to the garage, fitted them and only slightly whiter than stock, no way near the HID's. On a plus point I did the Fog Lights in about 5 mins each side thanks to the Bojo bars and some advice from jbsmith on how they come apart

What I have learnt from this experience other than how to change the main beam, is don't bother. I am 40 quid out of pocket and no better aesthetics!

Oh, and to top it off, I dropped my good LED torch through the engine into the under-tray, so I expect I will have to drop by a garage and have them whip that off for me to get it out, unless some aggressive driving might remove it for me. Oh and yes, All this electronics messing about ran my battery flat so its on charge now!!!

Not my finest hour.
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Oh, and to top it off, I dropped my good LED torch through the engine into the under-tray, so I expect I will have to drop by a garage and have them whip that off for me to get it out, unless some aggressive driving might remove it for me. Oh and yes, All this electronics messing about ran my battery flat so its on charge now!!!

Not my finest hour.
On a better note, I managed to get the bottom corner of the undertray loosened enough to retrieve my torch! Happy days.
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On a better note, I managed to get the bottom corner of the undertray loosened enough to retrieve my torch! Happy days.
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Jay - I'm with you for the mains. It just isn't worth it. I really want the consistent light on the road when I use them, but let's face it - nobody will ever see your mains and dipped on at the same time except with you flash someone.

Halfords didn't even manage to refit mine properly - the nearside clip has pinged off and is now pointing at the road. Not impressed...
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Jay - I'm with you for the mains. It just isn't worth it. I really want the consistent light on the road when I use them, but let's face it - nobody will ever see your mains and dipped on at the same time except with you flash someone.

Halfords didn't even manage to refit mine properly - the nearside clip has pinged off and is now pointing at the road. Not impressed...
I've highlighted the main problem for you
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Yep - well aware of that. However the alternative is even less skin than I now have remaining on my hands...!
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