LEDs Advice for the 159 - Page 15 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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hey jabawokjay,

great thread! Like you I have fitted the HID kit as recommend by you in chirsyoung's thread and like you I ordered the 6000k hid's they are brilliant by the way well recommend. Now I have to upgrade the sidelights as the yellow ones look terrible. Having read the different options on your first post I am confused and would like your opinion on the best option for the sidelights to match the HID's

thanks!!!
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Glad you got some useful info and made an informed purchase mate. The only viable options for that HID kit is the 8 LED Sides from the first post. They are what I run and are the closest match to the HID Kit. A few people ordering the 8 LED units recently have complained that the quality is not as good as it was, so check them thoroughly before you install them to make sure nothing is loose and if they give you a can bus error send em back and ask for replacements!!

NB: You could use the 24 LED ones also as they are a similar colour match but you will need to do the resistor modification listed in the first post as well, whereas the 8 LEDs just work and are pretty much the same result.

I do also recommend adjusting the beam shield in the headlight on the passenger side (see other thread for info on how or just read your owners manual). If you don't you will be illuminating the top of road signs and blinding anyone you pass on the outside.

You will see what I mean tonight when you go test them in the dark


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Thanks for advice

Just ordered them took car off for spin I seriously can't believe how rubbish the standard halogens were. Cant wait for these sidelights to come the car just looks so stupid with them orange lights!

Another thing is as the indicator light is in the same compartment as the sidelight by fitting the led light does it affect the indicator light? (just curious).

thanks

tony


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Originally Posted by JabawokJayUK View Post
Glad you got some useful info and made an informed purchase mate. The only viable options for that HID kit is the 8 LED Sides from the first post. They are what I run and are the closest match to the HID Kit. A few people ordering the 8 LED units recently have complained that the quality is not as good as it was, so check them thoroughly before you install them to make sure nothing is loose and if they give you a can bus error send em back and ask for replacements!!

NB: You could use the 24 LED ones also as they are a similar colour match but you will need to do the resistor modification listed in the first post as well, whereas the 8 LEDs just work and are pretty much the same result.

I do also recommend adjusting the beam shield in the headlight on the passenger side (see other thread for info on how or just read your owners manual). If you don't you will be illuminating the top of road signs and blinding anyone you pass on the outside.

You will see what I mean tonight when you go test them in the dark
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No, no effect at all, the indicators are very bright and override all LED options we have tried.

Enjoy the view of the road at night, its a whole new world with HIDs!
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Be sure your non-factory lighting design is not on the same circuit as the headlights. This causes a problem when you need the headlights and need to kill the interior system.
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Hey jaba

I know this is the wrong thread but....

I noticed today that my lights flicker when turning them on but do not after about 20 seconds

Is this ok?

Thanks
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replied in the other thread... what you describe in terms of an initial pulse bright, then slow warm up to full power is what I get and is just fine.
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Cheers jaba

Will upload pics when I get my LEDs
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Absolute disaster the led has dropped into the light housing is their a way to get this out?

Thanks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony89 View Post
Absolute disaster the led has dropped into the light housing is their a way to get this out?

Thanks
This is common - remove the indicator bulb for better access and either use a stick with a sticky pad on the end or a hoover with a length of hosepipe shoved up it, then go fishing

Many of us have used both techniques to get the LED back!
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thanks so much nearly **** a brick now fitted just waiting till night time

Thanks again jaba
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FYI all - I have created a new thread for the Cylon brake light project for those interested in following it.

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-...ml#post4661791
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JJ

just a query on your wiring insert diagram for the resitors a few pages back. You show 50W 12V load resistors. I'd have thought (and I'm prepared to be told why I'm wrong on this) that if the rear lights are P21's (standard 21W single and dual filament BA15's or 1156/1157's) that the 27W 12V resistors whould be closer to emulating the filament bulb.

What's the reason you went with the higher resisitance unit? I'd have assumed the 50W jobbies where closer to headlight territory.

And while I'm in "Questions Mode", what heat sinks did you add? Did you mount the resistors/heatsinks to the bodywork? If not, to where and if so, how hot do they and the body work get (I'm assuming if they're in contact with the body it might get warm to the touch but not much beyond that.)

V.

Last edited by Variator; 12-03-12 at 23:48.
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HI V, happy to clarify The wattage doesn't relate to the load they simulate, that is handled by the ohms. 10 ohm gives you about 1.5 amps which is close to what the filament bulbs drain. In the case of a resistor the wattage variable relates to their ability to dissipate heat so the more the merrier. 25w units would do the same job but would get much hotter and would need additional heat sinks, which is why I chose 50w units. Each unit is attached directly to the inside of the bodywork via a thermal transfer double sided sticky pad from 3M. These give a good hold against the body and optimise heat dissipation into the shell. So far, I have not actually felt any external heat on the outside of the car from the resistors based on where I located them, so I am happy that the heat is being well dissipated.

I have been running 6 of these in this config for my stop/tail lights for a month or so now and not had a single issue, so although you can go with smaller units, I wouldn't recommend it. With the 50w units they dissipate enough heat on their own to not need attaching to anything, so it makes it much safer in case they come loose. I tested this by running a 12v load across one for 3 days on my bench and was happy that although the units got hot, they were not so hot they could cause an issue.

I will be testing the same units with the indicators when I order some new LED bulbs for them, although as they are on for much smaller periods of time, you could use 25w units quite easily for that purpose, but given the 50w units are so cheap anyway (and I bought enough for every light in the car when I ordered some I will continue with the 50w units.
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Makes perfect sense.

thanks for the clarfication ... off to order me up a some.



e.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Variator View Post
Makes perfect sense.

thanks for the clarfication ... off to order me up a some.



e.
forgot to mention, the type 1159 bulbs have two filaments, each run from a separate feed for stop & tail use, so you will need two resistors for those bulbs, one for each feed. In the case of the stop/tail type 1159 bulbs located in the light units attached to the boot lid, they only actually wire up one of the filaments, so to do both sides of the car for stop & tail use, its a total of 6 resistors (two feeds to each bulb in the cluster on the corner, and 1 feed for each bulb attached to the clusters in the boot lid), not 4 or 8 as you would logically think
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Thanks JJ

Built a loom insert today akin to your diagram for the brake/tail LEDs and tested it. First off, without the resistors the LEDs produce a bulb out error on the dash, but function correctly. The loom has 2 x 50w 8ohm resistors in parallel, one on each circuit . When I stick the insert into the loom the brake light work as normal but the tail light doesn't illuminate, rather if regularly flashes (which I think is the canbus testing the bulb). Without the resistors the LEDs work fine (apart from the bulb out warning).

I'm open to suggestions on how to get around this (if there's isn't a fix, I may just remove the bulb out warning bulb on the dash).

Puzzeled.

V.
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Sounds like the resistors are too strong for your LEDs. 8ohms is perhaps too low. What are the tail lights your using? The way to figure out the right ohms would be to measure the current draw of a typical bulb then measure the current draw of your new LEDs then calculate the required load that you need to simulate. 10ohms gives you about 1.5amps not sure what 8 ohms gives. maybe its 2+amps and a step to far for the LEDs. Remember that your LEDs have built in resistors to step down from 12v to 2.5v for the LEDs to operate, so maybe your sucking to much ampage out with your resistors for them to operate. I bench tested mine in advance to check and they worked fine.
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I've got the Cree Q5 & 5050 SMD combos.
RED 1157 380 BAY15D Stop & Tail Cree Q5 12-SMD LED 7W Car Light Bulb | eBay

Which ones are you using?

V.
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Great thread, I'll be shortly looking to get some HID fitted, any issues with the new MOT regulations?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Variator View Post
I've got the Cree Q5 & 5050 SMD combos.
RED 1157 380 BAY15D Stop & Tail Cree Q5 12-SMD LED 7W Car Light Bulb | eBay

Which ones are you using?

V.
I used these : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...3#ht_726wt_881 which are different and more like a traditional low power LED array type bulb.

The CREE type 5w LEDs are pretty power hungry V, I think this is the root of the issue. You need to measure the current drain with a multimeter for the LED bulbs and for a standard bulb in order to define what the ohms of the resistor should be. I think they need to be much higher that the 8ohm ones you have.

If you have a multimeter measure the power drain from your battery direct using a multimeter and post the results here. do the same for a standard bulb and we can let you know what a more appropriate resistor should be.
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LED Sidelight update.....

Looks like the 8 LED Sides are prone to failure. I had one of my sides start throwing canbus errors which looked initially related to a separate HID issue. but after fixing the HIDs I kept getting the same random canbus errors on startup from one of the side lights.

So I have swapped back to the 24LED sides with an extra 150ohm 0.5w resistor soldered across the terminals to simulate a total of .21amps from the bulb. stock halogen w5w's seem to be about .35 amps so this was close enough to shut the canbus errors up.

I forgot how much brighter (and bluer) they are!!! but I like them
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Cheers JJ

I'll dust off the multimeter over the weekend.

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Just removed the LED sidelights. CANBUS errors etc.
While removing them, I noticed some burn marks, and part f the bulb had actually broken :O
Just gone back to normal bulbs for now, the philips ones. All good
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Just removed the LED sidelights. CANBUS errors etc.
While removing them, I noticed some burn marks, and part f the bulb had actually broken :O
Just gone back to normal bulbs for now, the philips ones. All good
Yeah, I think there is a general quality issue with the w5w LEDs from China. I will see how the 24's last with the additional resistor as that will reduce the load on the ones on the LEDs
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