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159 timing marks ?

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marks timing
14K views 25 replies 5 participants last post by  Dribbly 
G
#1 ·
The cam belt went on 159 which ive replaced the rockers but my trouble is where/how do i line it up ? I have the timing mark on the camshaft drive pully but where do i line that up to or with as theres no marks on the engine ?
 
#4 · (Edited)
You need to use the proper tools, its possible to change the belt on a running good engine by just using the marks but setting up after a belt snapping you cant, it is possible that the cams can move on the pulley.
The timing tool set is only a tenner.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Pcs-Diesel-Timing-Belt-Locking-Tool-Kit-For-GM-Opel-Vauxhal-Alfa-Romeo-Saab/252530372335?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D39697%26meid%3D366794599e084e2cbd71955ba3c2205b%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D351807264433
 
G
#5 ·
Tools ordered so many thanks, now I'm having real trouble getting the injectors out.
I tapped them, ive had them soaking in wd40 since wednesday, ive heated them and they still wont move nevermind pull out ... Nightmare !
 
#9 ·
Don't worry about timing it up until you have gotten the injectors out. Once the rocker cover is off its easy to fit the timing tools and get the top end timing set. Bottom end timing is simply bolting on the crank locking tool in the correct place.

As for the injectors, you can use the unions sacrificially to twist the injectors to help break the seal if you really have to. Otherwise just work at them with pry bars. To me this is preferable to one of those slide hammer puller tools which screw onto the top of the injector.

You will also need an injector seal puller tool, a seat cutting tool and it would also help if you got a gun barrel cleaning kit.
 
#7 ·
If I remeber correctly with the mark on the crank pulley at bdc the mark in the cam wheel lines up with a mark on the casing behind it on about the 2 o clock position, you will then be in the correct position to fit the cam pin and crank locking plate.
I will check on my autodata disc later to confirm this is correct.
 
#10 ·
Cam timing is achieved by screwing the timing tools into the rocker cover and then turning the cam pulley until the spring loaded part of the tool springs out into the hole in the camshaft and is then locked.
 
G
#11 · (Edited)
I wish getting the injectors out was so easy using pry bars, in reality they're seized. All 4 are seized and today after a week of soaking and hitting with various implaments ive managed to get them to move knocking them to and frow with a lump hammer and chissel though now they look in a sorry state and will probably have to be changed but they still still arent out, and they have to be out before i can see if any rockers need replacing.
Regarding the cam pully timing ive just watched a video where a tool is inserted into the cam cover then the engine is rotated untill you hear a click and the cam is then locked into place thus being in the right position, is that right ?


 
#13 · (Edited)
Or put piston in cyl 1 at TDC with a micrometer-dial, that will also do the trick :)

Remember to loosen the cam-pulley at bit, so it "floats", while handturning the engine after tightening the belt. After some rotations, insert all tools again, tighten pulley & all should be good :) I might be wrong on this one, read "JON156VELOCE" further down :)
 
G
#14 · (Edited)
Im doing the belt today and i cant seem to get it right as once i remove the locking tools then rotate the engine twice and put the locking tools back on the Crank pully is slightly out and has rotated half the bolt width more i cant get the bolt back in the hole ...
Once ive put the tensioner to it's correct setting the belf seems tighter in the tensioner side, so, should i undo the cam pull and make sides the same with the locking tools in place ..?
 
#15 ·
It sounds like you have the slack on the wrong side of the belt, if its on the drive side, right as you look at it then as the engine is turned the crank will turn and take up the slack before turning the cam so they go out of sync.
With it all set up correctly you need to loosen the cam wheel centre bolt to allow it to move and allow the slack to be taken up by the tensioner on the none driven tension side. The bolt is very tight so you will need to use a cam sproket holding tool to loosen and then retighten it, I will look up the torque setting for the bolt later for you.
 
G
#17 ·
I watched the Dayco traing video where it said always start from the crank around the pully to the cam pully then around the fuel pump then tentioner but i couldnt get the right hand side of the belt tight hence rotating futher than required ...
So, Couldnt i just put the left hand side of the belt on 1st then the right hand side would be tight and the tensioner would take up the slack .. ?
 
#18 ·
No, because the driven side will stay the same. It is less than 1 tooth out, if it was a tooth out you would just be able to put the belt on the next tooth and get it tight.
When you see it tension with the cam pulley loose but the cam and crank locked you will see the cam pulley move slightly anti clockwise half a tooth taking up the slack between the cam and crank pulleys.
I did a belt on a mates Renault Megane back in the summer, that has no marks on the pulley or the belt, you just lock the cams and crank and put the belt on any way it will fit but the crank pulley is floating, its just clamped in place by the aux pulley nut so when you set the belt tension the loose pulley moves so that all the slack is moved to the tensioner side and taken out.
Same idea on your engine.
 
#19 ·
You need to do it this was because it is possible that when your belt snapped the cam has moved slightly on the pulley.
If you can get access to it it would be worth checking that the inlet cam is also timed correctly but I think you can only get the pin in with the inlet manifold removed
 
G
#23 ·
It's done, christ you werent kidding when you said it'll be tight ..
To hold the sprocket i used an Under Bath Tap Nut Spanner which fitted perfectly and the job is complete.
Many Many thanks for the help it's been muchly appreciated.
 
G
#26 · (Edited)
Does it run..?

In a word, No.

I know it's been a while but today i finished putting it back together but it wont start
Ive 2 errors on mes which are the Maf sensor and P0335 RPM Sensor No Signal so I'm guessing it's a tooth out ?
The battery is flat so we'll have another full day on it tomorrow ..

Edit : While im here I'm getting rather annoyed with the alarm, if i unlock the car via the fob and leave for a couple of minutes the indicators flash , or, If if ive unlocked the car via the fob then minutes later i open the door the alarm goes off ..
 
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