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Potential Brera 3.2 V6 owner has some questions

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6K views 29 replies 14 participants last post by  sizewell 
#1 ·
Hi my names Dan, I am seriously considering buying an Alfa Romeo 3.2 V6 Brera but I have a couple of questions.

Firstly the car is beautiful BUT is the performance disappointing? 3.2l V6 should be plenty, but its not an alfa engine, and the car weighs a fair bit also!

I have read a lot about 159's and breras with rust issues (suspension parts and sub frames) how big an issue is this? How can I make sure i'm not buying a complete rust bucket?

Would I be better off buying the 2.4 diesel and remapping it ?

Thanks if you can answer any of those questions or offer anymore advice
 
#2 ·
The only person than can have an answer to your questions is you. What are you looking for from the car? What's the point of remapping a 2.4 Diesel if you think the performance of the V6 isn't going to suit your needs?
Some of these cars are now ten years old and just like any used car a good eye for untold damage, a nice sounding engine without idle or acceleration issue, plus a FSH is a must. Just like what you'd expect from any car. If in doubt bring someone to do a professional inspection for you.

Or buy something else and miss out on a car that you could have, but are to afraid to own and run. More opinionated than tech advice but these questions come along all the time on AO.com
 
#3 ·
If it was me, I'd be looking at a Prodrive 3.2 or a 1750 TBI from a respected specialist dealer. Both are reasonably quick and are the best of the breed. Rust shouldn't be a problem. Diesel?...no, no no.

Lovely looking thing with a great interior but not a great drive if you are a keen racy type. Cruiser not a bruiser.
 
#4 ·
Performance. You can find many 2 litre turbo cars which are quicker. Don't expect a Porsche or Ferrari but it's a cruiser not a racing car. Noise is great, the block may be used in other makes but the head is fully Alfa. Personally I read this type of non Alfa engine comment many times and don't really understand where it comes from. Thinking in this way if you start picking out the parts, electronics, 4 wheel drive, gearbox are not Alfa.
It needs suspension upgrade, budget for this as it makes a huge difference. I would also go for Q4. The way it pushes out of a corner is great even if it weighs a little more.
Oil change history, look for 10k changes max. I think book is 20k but longer oil changes risk needing a chain replacement. Engine out job it seems.
Rust, yes but easily treatable if caught in time. Only way to really check is get it up on a ramp. Mine was actuallly worse on the rear suspension than the front subframe.
Hope suggestions help. I would change my Q4 maybe for a DB9......
 
#5 ·
Go drive one Dan. The performance is excellent if you ask me. The speed limit comes up far quicker than the cars limit that's for sure.

Q4 - absolutely go for it. The handling is phenomenal. Compared to my old GTV v6 front wheel drive... Light years ahead.

Comfort and size... That's up to you. Now im taking kids to school every day and getting old, I'm starting to need a bigger 4 door... But that's not the car's fault.
 
#6 ·
Only you can decide if it is 5pot Derv or V6 Gasoline.
Having driven 156GTA SW and 159 Q4 SW, I much prefer the surefootedness of the 159, particularly on minor A roads and the like. Its why I still have the 159 and not the 156.
Cannot comment of the fwd Brera as not driven it, but I do like the v6 Q4 Brera that I had for a while - just has not got the luggage capability I need.
 
#7 ·
thanks for all of your comments, im going to go and drive a 56 reg 3.2 v6 brera next week, I checked it's MOT history and the advisories were, corroded brakes, rusting sub frame and rusting rear suspension trail arms, should I steer clear? asking price is £6,400 its done 68k miles and has full service history. Was looking on autolusso website and they do sort out rust issues and coat with waxoyl and hydrate 80 anyone had this or anything similar done?

Thanks Dan.
 
#10 ·
rusting sub frame and rusting rear suspension trail arms, should I steer clear?
Thanks Dan.
No

That's typical, I think you would be hard pressed to find one without. It would seem the paint on these areas is very weak. For sure they are not galvanized. I did mine, wire brush and por 15, 3 years ago and rust has not returned. Mine is a U.K. Car by the way.

Body is fully galvanized and you shouldn't find any rust issues there.
 
#8 ·
Corroded brakes is littler weird - they rust anyway when not in use.
Given age it might be due new brake lines/rotors etc - Autolusso can sort that out too.
These and the other things are bargaining point, and you might end up with Car Cost+Bill to sort it out at total about £7500-£8000.
What is there about at that price range?
 
#9 ·
Autolusso replaced my subframe with one of their refurbished ones. It's not especially cheap but not horrendous either. Floor pans are very well protected and very unlikely to be rusty but you can't see the worst of the subframe rust with the undertray on. Mine had sailed through an mot 2 weeks earlier but actually had 3 huge holes. I'm pretty sure I'm if I kept the undertray on it would have passed next years mot as well! The undertray can be a pain to take off for an inspection but the seller should do it for you if you are a serious buyer and you are otherwise happy with what you have seen.

Knowing what I do now, I would be happy to buy one with a rusty subframe if it was good enough otherwise and the right price.
 
#13 ·
Mind if I ask how much the new subframe was? The car is due for an MOT the week after next, I will ask if he plans to put it through an MOT before sale.

Also with regard to timing chains on the 3.2's do most of them get the timing chain done as a pre cautionary measure? Is it a pretty rare failure?

Thanks for all the information guys it is helping, just making sure I know what to look for when I go to see this brera next week.

Thanks again.
 
#14 ·
Mind if I ask how much the new subframe was? The car is due for an MOT the week after next, I will ask if he plans to put it through an MOT before sale.
If it were me, I would want a new MOT and simply wouldn't buy a car with no MOT, its by no mean a guarantee, but at least some kind of indication the car shouldn't be a wreck?

Also with regard to timing chains on the 3.2's do most of them get the timing chain done as a pre cautionary measure? Is it a pretty rare failure?
As far as timing chains on the V6, its a very expensive job, ifit needs it, no seller in there right mind will say yes to a £2-3k bill when the car runs fine. From what I have seen on the forums, the chains are a bit like luck, some it happens, most are fine. I do think oil changes are key to this though, so I would look for max 10k in between oil changes.

Thanks for all the information guys it is helping, just making sure I know what to look for when I go to see this brera next week.

Thanks again.
 
#16 ·
You dont mention what type of car your driving now, i have the Q4 v6 and i agree the performance is lacking especially in the higher gears, i bought this car for my wife and must admit the slk 250 diesel we had before was much quicker however i bought this car for its looks and future value so for me its ok.
 
#19 ·
Not a Dress Rehearsal

A V6 Brera would be a nice car to own.
Sometimes you need to take a little leap of faith.

It's a second hand car, the latest must be six years old. Things are going to want replacing. The only way to avoid those potential unknown repair bills on any car is to buy new.

There are a few buying guides on this here site and AlfaWorkshop. :)
 
#21 ·
Another thought which has crossed my mind, as my main concern with the 3.2 V6 is a rattling engine, periods of 10k+ miles without oil change etc and ultimately the timing chain stretching I am looking at buying privately, I think I will take out a used car warranty I have had quotes for about £30 a month to cover up to £5k, even if I just have this warranty for the 2/3 months until I decide the car is reliable and no obvious problems/noises...

Anyone else have a used car warranty? I have heard some of them can be misleading and often dont cover certain things (turbos etc)

Thanks.
 
#24 ·
Rattling 3.2 V6.
I picked up 3.2 v6 engine for £200. Suspected Timing chain failure. I already have a Q4. That has had all chains and tensioners done and it is sweet as a nut. Consumption is another issue, best left. However, over two days I have been stripping the spare engine down and if there are any issues about the quality of the build, the major ones would be, the variation in tightness of the bolts around the timing chain cover and on the Tensioner and guides. However, this being a 56,000 miler anecdotally, it really is in very good condition. Oil residues inside the heads and on the front housing for the timing chains are substantially absent. All very clean - and I mean very clean.
There is no evidence of "Scoring on the nylon faces of the tensioners or guides and checking the main lower chain tensioner to see if the mythical none return valve actually is there, I can confirm it is and it works. However, else where it has been stated the springs in the tensioners are very powerful and in one instance, it was said "The hydraulics" help support the springs? Well they certainly would need to in the case of this engine as the pressure they exert upon the tensioners is pathetic. Non the less, there doesn't seem to be the problem I was expecting to see - the "Dreaded Timing Chain Stretch". The engine was removed and replaced in a late Brera as a "severe rattling" was emanating from the block. I have inspected the oil filter and sure enough there are shards of white metal, almost grainy such as sand. Tomorrow, it is likely I will see the real problem when the sump comes of. The heads will also be off tomorrow and everything will be de-greased and dry stored in poly boxes whilst I get the funds together to have the remedial work done; most likely the first being a reground crank. Expert opinion seems to lead towards a spun bearing shell and damaged con-rod. I also suspect; as the fining's would need to come via the Oil Pump, I will probably need to change that too.
This all seems terribly depressing. But no! Yes it is going to cost me, but I would not spend the money if I had seen what I have been led to believe about this engine. Others more expert than me may be able to point more directly to issues other than poor power figures, high oil an petrol consumption and potentially issues about oil pressure and V.V.T. However on the evidence I have before me; this is fundamentally a very well designed engine and the quality of the casting is as good as anything I have seen. The strength of the block is enhanced by virtue of the crankshaft bearing caps being bolted through the block walls as well, thus strengthening the block and effectively encapsulating the Crank within it.
All this has spun of from my desire to supplement oil pressure across the block by using external piping directly from the Oil Filter/cooler unit. After getting the front cover off I was able to inspect the V/V.T. feed ways and the diameter of those further reinforces my view that Oil flow/pressure distribution across the block is not sufficient to support a "Proper Functioning Variable Valve Timing System" and maintain timing chain tension.
All this aside, I'm still glad I bought the Q4 and the spare engine. I think the engine is brilliantly designed but poorly manufactured. Did they run out of money or was the launch date approaching to fast for them to finish the job properly? Who can say. I think Alfa let this engine down. But I remain convinced that well throughout modifications; to oil distribution in particular, can go some way towards redemption. Is this a good engine - yes. Could it be great - yes. Is it a complex engine - no. Could a mechanical minded enthusiast overhaul it - yes. It appears complex. But once you start to take it apart, it's not complex at all The electronics are a different issue. But it is well to remember, the dealers can't fix that either. They just simply throw the faulty bit a way and stick on a new one.
Is the V6 worth buying? Yes, Yes and Yes again.
 
#22 ·
A warranty won't cover any faults which existed when you bought it, most will insist on having evidence of a full service history and some offer cheaper packages for basic components but become very expensive for more comprehensive cover. They are a bit like bookies; the odds are stacked in their favour. Why not ask for a pre-purchase inspection at a specialist with you footing the bill if you don't buy and splitting the cost if you do?
 
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