Brera 3.2 prodrive timing chain help! - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 16 Old 11-10-16 Thread Starter
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Brera 3.2 prodrive timing chain help!

Hi all I have a 60000miler 3.2 prodrive unfortunately I have developed the dreaded PO16 fault code ! Timing chain stretched issue. My question to you all is which parts do I need item by item and where's the best/ cheapest place to purchase ? I will undertake the work myself as I am an engineer so that's not an issue ? I have read that on here that you can buy the parts cheaper from GM?
Looking forward to hearing from you all regards Andy
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Don't worry too much - engine out is pretty strightforward - parts are 500 if you add clutch and all fluids etc but 250 without good to do jobs. I've got plenty of photos of the job if needed
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Hi No grip that's reassuring I need your help can you help me order parts and info on the job in hand please Thanks Andy
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These are most of the parts you'll need:

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-...it-wanted.html (chain kit wanted!)

I did mine by taking the engine/gearbox out of the front of the car with an engine hoist. I've heard it's possible to drop the engine and subframe down to remove but that looked more difficult. No special tools are needed and air con can stay gassed. Hardest part was getting crank pulley off but a big 3 legged puller and plenty of patience got me there in the end.
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Which car do I look up on GM website ?
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Quote:
Which car do I look up on GM website ?
Probably more reliable using the part number
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What put you off doing them insitu ?
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Member car:

Brera 3.6

And ly7 engined GM car will get you the right timing parts.

Sent from my SM-N910C using Tapatalk
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No room to do all that's needed with out removing the engine.
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I recently changed everything other than the cam wheels - on engine strip down they looked fine. Mine was a 2007 159 Q4, so pretty much the first series Cadillac engine before they had two goes at sorting the problem.

Hopefully attached is a full list of everything I bought from GM Parts Direct. I bought a lot of things I wouldn't necessarily buy for any other car - but having spent two days getting the engine out (originally to do the output bearing to the rear drive porpshaft) I didn't fancy having to do it all over again if something leaked or failed. My postage was cheap as I had it sent to one of our work places in the US, and shipped it internally from there - they wanted over $200 to ship direct to the UK.

Bought the water pump from one of the UK internet places as they claimed Valeo - and it was when it arrived ;-)

I removed and stripped the engine first - got the part numbers (all GM) from the actual parts and went from there - a few were obsolete and needed a bit of seaching to be sure the replacement was correct.

Downloaded various engine guides from here:
*** FAQ - DIY - Guides - How-To - Manuals ***

and picked the relevant one (I forget which for mine) - genuine GM instructions - that were wrong on a few occasions - instructions to fit guides or chain wheels, then something else - and they really meant the something else first as the second bit wouldn't fit with the first in place - but easily sorted.

Watch fitting the final chain - the lower idler sprocket jumped a tooth unless I held everything in place - not really noticeable either as it did it. I'm sure that has a lot to do with when you read people having a misfire on start up.

When I got all the new bits, a close inspection revealed my chains (I did it as the engine was out, rather than an indicated fault) were still pretty okay compared to the new ones. The guides were close to the end of their life though. Interestingly the replacement guides, all genuine GM, were totally plastic - the same wear surface clipped in the same way to the carrier component, but the carrier was plastic rather than the original alloy.

My only problem was on todying up after sealing the engine up at 11pm on a saturday night was wondering if I really had torqued the second ilder bolt up . . . by 12.15 I had opened it up, checked (I had), cleaned, resealed and got it back to where it was at 11 ;-)

I sorted my going rusty subframe out at the same time.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Parts Direct.pdf (32.0 KB, 26 views)
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Just out of interest how much does the diy job cost?
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Oops... posted in wrong thread
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Quote:
What put you off doing them insitu ?
It is apparently possible insitu but I wanted to do a long list of precautionary items so it made more sense pulling the engine. I did the chains, water pump, clutch & slave, radiator, gearbox and transfer box seals, track control arms, brake discs and pads, exhaust flexi, engine steady bar, subframe paint, all fluids and a couple of other bits I've forgotten about. Individually they would have added up to 1000's but in the end were middle 100's. Once all back together the only problem was the airbag light so I bought a copy of MES to turn that off - I've used MES plenty of times since so well worth it.
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Hi BriCol gheir attachment doesn't work unfortunately can you retry please Thanks Andy
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Seems to work - it's a pdf so you need a viewer.
Might be easier to email it to you?
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Hi BriCol can you email at
Andrew.bowns@Gmail.com
Thanks Andy
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