My C/L stopped working off the driver's side door key a while ago.
Using the key works fine on the passenger door but not on the driver's side. Lifting and lowering the internal door button etc. it all works fine. So I think fundamentally it's all okay.
I took the door lock cylinder off and replaced it, as the sleeve looked a bit worn. When you turn the key it moves a locking arm. The locking arm gets only so far.. just not enough to "trip" the lock. If you push the mechanism manually (just another few mm) it trips.
New cylinder didn't solve the problem!
Next suspect was the door latch mechanism. I put a new one on, in case it was worn internally. Obviously the moving arm gets to a point where it has to trip the lock and if the old lock is worn, it won't trip, even if the (new.. it came with the cylinder) locking arm is now moving the lever enough.
Again, a new lock mases no difference.
So... the new lock moves a new lifting arm to lift a lever on a new lock. There's no adjstability etc. nothing loose or slack, yet it doesn't work off the key.
If I move the locking lever manually it's fine, so it must all be sound (mostly) apart from if I use the key. I haven't dismantled the passenger door to compare it but it's as if turning the key *just about* doesn't lift/lower the lever enough. A few more mm's would do it. yet all the moving parts are new.
Is there a relay? My only bit of sanity hopes that there's a separate relay for each side and the driver's side is shagged.
However, I'm not hopeful as the locking lever can be nudged a bit further by hand and that trips the C/L. Really it's as if the rod connecting the lock cylinder to the lock arm is too short (to unlock) and too long (to lock).
It's all new though...