After months of wondering should I do it or trade in my beloved 155. the tensioner pulley decided for me.
Took my head with it obviously, dont know the extent of the damage but I can only assume all 16 valve are bent, after I tried starting it a couple of times and the RAC man asked to turn the engine over to listen.
Anyway what I could do with is general tips from you guys.
If you can help with how much parts are, I've been told that the head gasket set is £150, is this right?, also what exactly is the variator and what bits of it wear out and what would need replacing.
I'm glas I've managed to sort out an interim car, so I can do this at my leisure.
Any help would be appreciated
BTW I'm sorry I've not been on the forums recently but Ive been busy on Unreal Tournament, how sad it that!!!!
Sorry to hear this but it is an easy enough job,but don't try to play with it with out cam locks (you have been warned).
Dayco Cam Belt £22.62 ,Dayco Balancer shaft Belt £16.32 .
Why you say do i use Dayco ,the answer is because all the Italians do.
Hi BW, the head on my car was actually rebuilt about two years ago (less than 16,000 miles), it wasnt the cambelt that was the problem but the tensioner, my advice would be if your thinking about changing that tensioner pulley, stop thinking and get it done!!
I believe it costs round about £300 to get it done compared to £1500 for a rebuild.
do or do not, try or try not, there is no try, only do (YODA)
I know the tensioner is usually the culprit, and had everything changed not long ago (~5k miles) and had the belt checked about 1k ago so should be ok for a while, I was just wondering at what mileage it had failed - you say 16000!! eek!
It seems to me this job needs doing probably every year/12000 miles. Mine will be changed again at the 60k service, which is only 3k away. I wonder how many people who don't use the forum try and change them at the stated 60k and actually get away with it?? If any frown
Hi my 96 2.0sportpack at 34000 miles did the same [i talked about it on the old 155 site]cost about £1700 2 years ago with a main agent it did most of the valves pistons ok but had the head skimmed and had new seats put in at the same time
the belts at 34000 looked ok i think would have been okay for quite a bit longer ,the tensioner seems to cause more trouble than the belts,hope the modded one lasts okay?
If you repair your engine i would advise a new water pump at the same time [behind the belts]if you are going to keep the car.my car only gets used at the weekends so it has only 40000 on the clock now ,so i should be ok for quite a bit longer.
Second hand head should be cheaper, I'm such a fair bloke that I sold the one off my car for £250 complete with everything, cams, valves etc so if you can find another at that price then its not much more than a set of new valves.
Failing that, the latest AROC magazine has a GTV 2 litre 16v engine advertised for £500, don't know what year though.
My 16v has covered 96 k miles now with one belt change at 60 k, maybe before the supercharger gets fitted i should get these bits changed... personally i dont agree with this idea that the 16v engine is fragile, mine isnt... hes says gripping a piece of wood :-)
im getting my tensioner belts variator and idler pulley done tommorrow for £210 . if you need a mechanic to help with the re build and poss source some bits drop me a mail. oh and the idler pulley is also renown for seizing and making belt go so have it checked while its all off.
BTW i'm in the process of writing this stuff on web pages as commentary of the work, hopefully this'll help others as i've included special tool pix and other general info, I hope it'll help, anyway . . .
It seems that the inlet valves are totally bent and may have pulled the guides down with them, some piston damage but not severe, just scoring (don't fancy bottom end rebuld!!)
Exhaust valves look fine but who am I to say, cams look okay, but no way to tell until it goes to engineers shop as I don't have the tools or the know how.
I'm getting my belts/pulleys/tensioners/variator done soon as im reaching 56k (well no not
me, the car...). My bro (jase77) bought the head locking tools and he finished doing his
the other day (his 2nd time of doing this) so i feel im in good hands.
Don't know why some Twin Spark engines last forever and some barely reach the end of the
street - Alfa's eh, who'd have one.
the tensioner seems to cause more trouble than the belts,hope the modded one lasts okay?
I saw comparitive pics of the original & 'modded' tensioners I think on Henry Yorke's site. Was the modded one fitted to the later cars or did they all come out of the factory with the original tensioner and the modded one was only available after the 155 stopped production?
I'm about to do the belts & variator on my 2.0 16V. I was just wondering: I know I'll need the cam locking tools, but the manual mentions two special tools for tensioning the belts (1822149000 for t/belt, 1822154000 for b/belt). Are these really necessary or can I make do with ordinary tools?
My other question: how is the tensioner fitted to the camshaft? The picture shows a threaded piece, does this screw into the camshaft? My manual fails to mention this. Does it need Loctite or similar?
you can work the tensioners without the special tools,but you cant do the variator without the cam locks,,also the big silver bit in the picture is the variator and it just screws into the cam,but its very tight and may need a bit of gbh to get it to unscrew them you just put a bit of loctite on the thread when you put in the new one.
the tensioner tools will come with the cam locking tools if you are looking at buying them.
The kit consists of 4 cam locks - 2 for the 1.8/2.0 engines and 2 for the 1.4/1.6 engines - one for each cam = 4, and the 2 tensioner tools. - one for the cam belt tensioner and the other for the balancer shaft belt tensioner... all in a nice wee box.
the TDC tool is separate as is the needle gausge that goes on top of it.