There are a few articles on disks in here you can find.
The disks are quite an easy job. Not entirely sure about 8v as you will have the 10" disks and I have the 16v with the 11" but imagine its about the same. On the front the Lucas Caliper is held in place by 2 19mm Bolts. Before removing wheel / jacking car turn full lock to the side you are working on to get best access to the bolts. Actually the Alfa wheel wrench will fit if you are short on tools but you will be best with an extension bar as the bolts are usually very tight, you may need some WD40 or plusgas on them. If the disks are badly worn the pads may be eaten into it a little and nedd some separation before caliper will free disk. You dont need to detach the caliper from the hosing just rest it on an upturned bucket or something to prevent strain on the hose while you remove disk. The disk is held on by the 2 wheel locater bolts , think these are 11 mm, use an 11 mm socket for these or a ring spanner, I found these quite easy to get off. Theres a spacer ring between these and the disk which will lift off. Oh, Its best to remove these before the caliper as you can rely on a friend to press the brake pedal to hold disk steady otherwise if you havent got a helper its of no matter, hold the disk still with a screwdriver in the disk vents. The disk itsself will be tight onto a flange and require some help to come off. Hold a bit of wood against the back edge and tap wood with hammer, rotate disk and tap again and again around edge until disk is free. There is another 11mm or 12mm bolt holding the cowling that protects the disk from dirt at the back, cant recall if you need to remove this.
The Pads. These are a good design, no silly split pins or anything, they are held in with a spring on the outer edge and can be slowly teaser inwards and out with a srewdriver or other blunt object. Make sure you give the caliper a good rub with a wire brush to remove any loose debris and the new pads should fit in easily after you have opened the caliper fully. Best remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir before pushing the caliper open as there will be less resistance with the lid off. I found the caliper has quite a lot of resistance and needed to use a large adjustable plumbing wrench to squeeze it back. Dont try to push it to quickly, applying a steady pressure the piston will slowly move back without damage. Make sure the caliper clamp (opposit is also floating in and out nicely.) As you will have new pads and disks the caliper will need to be fully retracted to fit pads. Do any cleaning and tidying and wash your hands before going near the new disks and pads. Disks should go on easy, As the locator bolts are only 11mm and the disk is clamped by the wheel bolts after wheel fitting the 2 11mm bolts shouldnt be too tight. Fit them loosely then replace wheel and tighten wheel bolts to ensure disk is pressed back tightly onto flange then remove wheel and nip up the 2 bolts. You may find disks have a laquer coat to protect from rust whilst in storage. Its best to give them a good whipe with a cleen rag and a bit of petrol or spirits to get them free of it.
Lastly fit pads into caliper and refit caliper. You should get place a little copper ease on the metal back of the pad to prevent break squeek, only the tiniest amount is required, needless to say you dont want the risk of any on pad surface.. Pads should be easily fitted into caliper pressing in by hand. I also put a little copper ease on the 19mm bolt threads retaining caliper as these can get siezed very tight due to the heating of the caliper
likewise the wheel bolts. These bolts are 19mm same as the wheel bolts id tighten them almost as tight as you would a wheel bolt.
Lastly replace cap on brake fluid reservoir.
Back disks. I'm doing mine soon too, I dont know of any complications. the handbrake is
actuated on the disk as part of the main caliper so I dont see any problems in removal like can be the case when theres a hand brake drum internal. Before considering
buying new rear disks Id give them a good inspection, you may be be best just replacing the pads with some uprated ones.
PS. I will be doing my timing belt soon, I would apreciate some advice, that CD sounds very useful.
[This message has been edited by Graham Bell (edited 25 June 2001).]