V6 Cambelt Service - Where to get parts? - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 15 Old 17-06-10 Thread Starter
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V6 Cambelt Service - Where to get parts?

Hi Everybody

Got a 155 V6 WB with a cambelt of unknown age/mileage, needs to be changed of course. Same goes for the aux belts, all three.

I live in Sweden and the Alfa rep went to h3ll last year and the service network with it. It's being set up again now but as you might imagine they don't exactly have a ton of spares laying around and since the number of 155 V6es here is probably less then 20 (!) I have one option: Buy the parts and do the job myself...
I have bought parts from EB Spares for my other Alfas in the past and it has always been a pleasure, this time I got some rather cunfusing responses regarding the number of pulleys and tensioners I need.

So, where can I get the parts? Who knows which parts I need?
-Cambelt + tensioner
-Water pump
-All 3 Aux belts + pulleys/tensioners.
-Thermostat

Help.
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If you car still has a hydraulic tensioner you should buy the newer non hydraulic one and save yourself future headaches.

You are right on the spares you need. I would check exhaust valve clearances too. You'll need 2 valve cover gaskets and 6 rubber seals that go on the spark plug holes.

You can get the workshop manuals to get info on how the check the clearances here:

http://www.tvc.se/AR/Workshop_Manual...ngine%20v6.pdf

You can buy the parts as you said from EB Spares, Alfissimo.com, etc and get them shipped to your home.

Changing the cambelt is not a tough job but you need to have the proper tools. If possible get cam locks to make the job easier.

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(Post Link) post #3 of 15 Old 18-06-10 Thread Starter
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So there are 155s with hydraulic tensioner? I thought they were all mech by -96?

The job itself is very easy but the room in the engine bay makes it a bugger of a job.
Cam locks? For a 12v? Never heard of it, I'll probably go with the degree wheel and gauge. Naturally the clearances will be checked at the same time. Didn't add all the parts needed, just the ones I was unsure of.

Still there is no definitive list, ePer is also incomplete in this department.
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I'm 99% sure all WB V6's had mechanical tensioners, I thought it was only the early skinny v6's that had hydraulic tensioners?? Certainly both of my 96 WB V6's had mechanical tensioners... EB Spares supplied my tensioner without complication, local motor factors supplied the belts although there are options for the aux belts dependant on the accessories on the car. The waterpump is the same one as for the 12v 3.0l Spyder and again came from a local factors (not sure if it is the same as other 12v V6's with the thermostat on the belt side or not). Thermostat I bought from the local Fiat garage, I'm not sure if you can get a pattern one or not.

You definitely don't need camlocks for the 12v, and I've timed mine up twice now using the standard cam and pully marks without any issues.

As you say, cambelt is easy enough although changing the waterpump in the car is an absolute pig.....

Good luck!

Screw Flanders
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Thanks.

Water pumps differ quite a lot actually, depending on the thermo location and also model of car platform.
Which Fiat model? Loose thermo or the whole housing? Would be sweet to find one that fit into the housing instead of buying the whole unit.
Are there clear part no. markings on the idler pulleys and tensioners, i.e. can I find out what I need by looking at the parts I have on there now?
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You need:

Cam-belt
Tensioner
Water pump
Water pump gasket
Rocker cover gaskets (fr & rr)
6 Spark-plug gaskets
Aux belts.

You don't *need* to change the thermostat but if you decide to, then you have to change the whole thermostat. You need a gasket for it too.

The tensioner will be a spring-loaded one, not hydraulic any more. My v6 is a 1994 and it's spring-loaded.

The OE tensioner and water pump are good for 144,000 miles (my water pump ran to 190,000) so no sweat if you can't get hold of new ones. Use an OE (genuine parts) tensioner and you won't have to change it ever again. An OE water pump is a bit dear, so a good after-market one will do.

Ralf S.



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Tnx Ralf

The thermo is done for so it's not an option I'm afraid. I'll start the tear-down today and have a look at things, usually it all becomes clear when you spin stuff unloaded.

Cheers
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Yes.. it's actually quite simple once you see it in the metal.

The cam-belt can just about come out through the gap between the flywheel and the block, so if your crank pully nut is seized rusted, you don't have to bust a gut to undo it (mine will never come undone again, I doubt..) Just pass the belt through the gap and then route it up the side of the engine to the camshaft pulleys.


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Really? That's real good news. I was actually quite suprised to see how much access there were below the body through the wheel house. I remember my old Integrale where the body covered half the pulley, what a joy that was.
This will be halted for a while, going to London for the weekend and after that I will be ill for 1 weeks (seems to be the tradition at least). Also I should really focus on my race car.
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Hi All,

I am new here, and about to embark on a project which is probably going to cost me some sanity, some knuckle skin and of course some cash.
I bought a 2.5 V6 WB 155 for very little money, but it is going to need some work. Instead of starting a new thread, I did some searching and found this one which seems to be quite well related to what I want to do.

The V6 in question is very noisy on the cams, and from what I have read this seems to be quite normal on the 12V model. The owner has been 'informed' by a so-called specialist, that the camshafts need to be replaced. The car has done 86,000KM in a very warm climate and I am doubtful that low mileage could cause a camshaft to wear to the point of replacement? Or could it?
When I take delivery of the car, I intend to do a cambelt change and thought that while I am at it, I might as well do tha cams. I have found some used camshafts but without inspecting them, I am reluctant to buy them. Also, it probably makes sense to inspect the old ones first I suppose. If they display no obvious wear signs, I will leave them in rather and see if I can adjust the clearances instead.

With regards to the cambelt change, I have thought of the obvious to change, and as mentioned in this list.
Cam-belt
Tensioner
Water pump
Water pump gasket
Rocker cover gaskets (fr & rr)
6 Spark-plug gaskets
Aux belts.
I am not sure if it has a hydraulic tensioner or the mech one, but being a '95, assume it will be the hydro one. Is there any point in ordering a mech one anyway if it will fit?
Was thinking of doing the thermostat as well while diggin around in there. In the service manual it does not look that bad a job, but things always look easier from the armchair :-)

While I am going about the above works, I am going to do TRE's, new front wishbones, discs and pads all round, clutch and brake master and slave cylinders, and somewhere along the line, the clutch too.

Is there any ONE place I could possible get all of these parts in the UK? I am hoping to get some discount for a bulk buy, and then slowly bring the parts over to me in Dubai.
If there is a place that I can get all the parts by confirming compatibility through the VIN number, it would make it so much easier for me. In all I would like to get all the parts for around 1000 pounds and it will make the car a worthwhile project and maybe a weekend fun drive. Any suggestions on what else needs replacing while I am at it? Lambda sensors, idle control valves etc?

Thanks
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Is that you, Andy?

Or is there a rash of new 155 V6 drivers in Dubai?

Probably best to ask your questions in just one place, otherwise you can get conflicting advice

As you've found 155.org - you'll know there's a lot more expertise over there......

Richard
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I'd have a peek at the cams first, before buying new ones. My old beast has 200,000 miles on it (300k) and no unusual wear on the cams at all, so I'd be surprised if your cams are knackered. At that mileage it's more likely to be the tappets, especially the rear bank which are tucked under the inlet manifold, so rarely get a look at.

You should also source new gaskets for the chrome pipes since you'll probably take them off the injector blocks. They're just wafer thin paper, so not that dear.

There are 2 gaskets for the water pump. There's the big one where the water pump attaches to the motor and then a small square one where the water inlet pipe from the thermostat runs through the "v" and attaches to the top of the pump. I have a million of them if you can't find one.

The cam-belt tensioner will likely be mechanical and it's a splendid piece of kit. Mine ran through 2 belt cycles (wasn't changed at 144k) and was a bit "racy" but still solid. If yours really is hydraulic (doubt it) then try to change it for mechanical rather than the other way round.

Thermostat really is a simple job..

Cam-belt (as I wrote above) can fit through the gap behind the bottom pulley if you take the TDC sensor out the way, so don't remove the pulley unless you're REALLY sure you can't do it.

Everything else, you seem to have spotted.. but buy some brass cleaner (really!) and shine up your throttle butterfly... just because you can!


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agreed with ralf. They get loose over time. Quick adjustment should see you laughing.
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Hey Richard, yep.....thats me again :-)

I was having problems registering on the other site, so joined up here. I have not had a chance to pull the motor to bits yet, I am still going over everything that I need first. I will get a waterpump, and will order the belt and mech tensioner, either way I am going to have to get the mech one in there.
The cams sound like the prob to me, and I am going to open it up with the expectation that at WORST I will need new cams....at best, I will abdjust the zorst tappets and see if it improves.
Ralf, thank you, very usefull info..., and thanks for the gasket offer. I have seen that the cambelt was changed last year middle, so I am ok for now, but the plan is to do it in the cooler winter months anyway, so parts on order....

Will defo shine up the throttle butterfly......cos I can.....the same way I removed the lower das and glovebox to fix it....the radio mounting area plastics were in horrible shape, so I sanded it down and painted it bright red like the car....looks ok actually....
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My experience with 12V cams differs from Ralf & Joss. My 155 V6 had totally FUBAR cams at about 80k miles. I bought a scrap engine taht had thrown a rod in the hope the cams would be good - they were done for as well, but better than the originals so I put them in, along with their matching followers. All the 164 12V motors I've looked at had cam wear to some degree or another. Last year, I put a replacement engine in the 155 and thankfully, the cams on this one were OK (but NOT perfect). I put new followers in it, which is a bit risky, but so far, it's been super-quiet in the top end. The old engine by the way...the cams & followers had worn so badly that they had started to wear the follower bores in the heads oval - they moved up & down as well as in & out......

Seems to me that the treatment they get when new is the answer - my car had 45k on it when I bought it and the damage had been done by then I reckon.

If the followers are dished and pitted...the cams are done for as well.
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