AO Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: The land that Time forgot
Re: A picture paints a thousand words......
There's a rubber bush between the metal cap piece and the spring. Yours looks a bit knackered and could be making the noise.. though check it's not the wishbones first.. that's much more common.
Anyway to remove the damper:
Loosen slightly (but don't remove) that top nut inside the metal cap. You may need a special tool if the suspension rod rotates instead of the nut coming undone.. but if you try to loosen the nut while the weight of the car is on the wheels it should prevent the rod spinning.
Next you have to jack the car up (take the wheel off) and undo the 3 bolts holding the cap to the inner wheel-arch (the ones on the suspension turret). This will separate the damper unit from the car at the top. The damper unit will "drop" down.
At the bottom of the damper, remove the 2 big bolts that connect the damper unit to the suspension arm. This will allow you to take the damper unit off the car.
All that's holding the cap to the damper unit is that top nut.. but if you undo it, it will get shot into your head at 200mph, so be careful for this next bit..
Get spring compressors (you need big ones ideally) to compress the springs enough (quite a lot of compressing is needed) so that the cap becomes "loose" between the spring and the nut. It's normally held tight under spring tension, so can't move. Once you compressed the springs, the cap will just flop around.
When the cap is loose, you can remove the nut.
Stick in new rubber bushes p/no. 7601502 and while you're there, replace the insulating ring that screws onto the top of the spring p/no. 7602150.
Then replace the cap .. screw the nut back on as tight as you can before the rod starts turning and carefully remove the spring compressors so that the spring tightens up against the cap again. Refit the damper unit to the car... but this time push the unit into the suspension turret, attach the 3 top bolts first and then the bottom 2.
You may find the damper is "longer" than it was before, having been disturbed and because the top nut isn't as tight as it will be. You may have to "manhandle" the damper to get the bottom bolt/holes lined up.
The last job is to tighten the nut with the weight of the car on the wheels (or use special tool to stop the rod turning).
The bushes are a mighty £20 each... the insulating ring about a tenner, so you're looking at £60 for the rubbers.
Be very careful when using the spring compressors .. until a spring pops out of a compressor or fires something (usually the top nut) past your head at 200mph, you don't realise quite how much force is in there. Keep your fingers out of the springs at all times.
Use professional (i.e. LONG) compressors if you can.. the normal 10" long ones you get in tool shops are not big enough for the '55 springs (I needed 4).
Of course, you could use the opportunity to also fit new dampers and lower springs... it's a pity to go to all the trouble and put back the old minging Boges.. though mine lasted 170,000m so no doubting they're good sh***.
No bullets for Chaingun..
Last edited by Ralf S.; 24-03-09 at 08:03.