That was the first suggestion of the guy who gave me a tow (the gauge HAS been a bit erratic) but all the plugs smelled petroly when removed a day after last turnover and now I have eased the inlet pipe as suggested and there is fuel at pressure seeping out, so unfortunately not that simple - anyway running out of fuel gives you a bit of warning as it loses power in fits and starts, cos I've done it (just once). This was immediate and total.
Now to add to my woes, having pulled all the relays one by one and disassembled, cleaned and checked them, I have now progressed to the CODE light staying on and no injector light. Whatever I've done with the relays has really cocked things up. I tried the Master Key but it didn't recognise that either.
Does the CODE unit lose the key codes if disconnected for any length of time? I wouldn't have thought so...otherwise you'd have to re-memorise the keys every time the battery went flat (not that mine has ever been allowed to get to that stage. I even bridged the cables with a sealed lead acid one when I had a new battery fitted, as I have lost the radio code
In the process of removing and testing relay connections, and finding everything in the wrong place, it dawned on me that someone has for some reason shuffled the order on the frame, so what should read S12 b,a,d (L-R) now reads d,a,b. Obviously an FM radio enthusiast making some sort of comment on the digital alternative!
Belay response to above CODE problem - have checked the relays and found one with a break in the coil winding - probably down to my clumsy handling, but I think it looks a bit corroded and may have been intermittent anyway. I repaired it and will get a new one when I can, but I am afraid that my hopes that this might have been the cause of the BIG problem were sadly short-lived. I reconnected the fuel supply and pump and now get my CODE and injector status OK, but still churning over no-start.... Back to square three...