Ive done both sets on mine. The ones at the gearbox end and the ones under the gear lever.
If you have time, do the gearbox ones first. Cheap enough and fairly easy to do.
The gear lever ones are harder to do. Personally, i'd buy a good second hand one and change it out with the old one.
To do it:
1) Get the car as high as you can. Ramps or big axle stands. You need space.
2) The downpipe will have to come off the manifold, so undo the lambda probe connections (two of- there may be enough slack on the third one to not necessitate removal). Be warned. Exhaust bolts are made from rusty cheese And will shear as soon as you look at them.
3) Take the bolts out AFTER the cat joint and then the middle hanger. Lower exhaust gently as the third lambda probe cable is still on it.
4) Tea. (Optional)
5) heat shields and the u shaped clamp bolts on the subframe will need undoing. Probably as far as the fuel tank.
6) lower the "tunnel" down and you will see the white mounting unit, will probably have some sound deadening on it. Take that off.
7) unclip the gear lever surround from inside the car.
8) on top of the white thing are four M6 nuts, so will need a 10mm ratchet spanner or a 1/4 socket.
9) poke about the rubber grommet until it comes out of the metal plate.
10) training as a gynaecologist will come in handy here as you try to undo the gearchange cables.
11) tea. Not optional as youll need to replace lost bodily fluids.
12) swap old one for new one, reconnect the cables. REALLY IMPORTANT THAT BIT!!!!!
13) get the grommet back in then do up the nuts.
14) lift (shes heavy!) the "tunnel" back up making sure you havent pulled off the crimp lug for the handbrake.
15) do up the nuts nice and tight.
16) new gasket on the manifold and bolt it all up tight.
17) plug lambdas back in.
18) more tea, clear rust and dirt from eyes.
19) clip in gaitor.
20) change gear like a god.
Rusty bolts on the 'zorst will be your biggest headache.
Drills n taps n new bolts n grease will probably be necessary.