Did this yesterday.
Absolutely have to take the seats out. Can't be done in place. I was deep cleaning the interior of my car and part of that was cleaning the leather, so thought I'de do this at the same time. takes about 40 mins total for the seat pad swap. One of the rails has to be partially removed to get access to one of the bolts. Only one bolt on the rail and push it to the side. The seat pad bolts are loctited in so need a fair bit of force to free, but do eventually give with a loud crack. Seat now feels like new on the drivers side and managed to make 6 quid in loose change as well so result
Right thanks everyone!
So the other day I unbolted the rails as they come off easily..
Unplugged the seat's airbag connectors (Yet to be soldered that is the next job)
Placed the seat upside down on spare carpet rug and then set about unbolting the rails.
Gave them a good clean and slight re-grease too.
This gave more access to the fiddly bolts I've been on about.
Much more accessible to get to now and easy to get leverage on.
I had put a little rust remover spray on previously but not sure how much of it soaked up vertically.
I had the socket in the star hole then gave it a sharp tap with a rubber mallet.
Upon turning the screw there was indeed a 'crack' sound however no rust present or indeed Loctite on my bolts at least.
Even the bolt where it had been considerable burred - with the socket in and some sharp taps it bedded back in again enough to get some purchase in turning the bolt.
Right so then the part of the seat (base) that one sits on is free and yes of course to my delight (as I'd predicted and others have confirmed) it is indeed symmetrical so I can swap for the other side!!
My only problem is that my car has the 'winter pack' and heated seats.
The cable from underneath the seat goes into the upper seat back rest with no obvious connector to undo.
Now at this point I was quite thrilled at having removed the bolts but didn't take it any further and of course the back rests have the lever (3 door) to get in and out so I was stuck.
Has anyone else got an idea for this please?
Is it a case of cutting then soldering these wires after the seat base swap?
Or hopefully an easier less messy way?
The cable anchoring the base to the backrest - I'm assuming it's the heated seat but could it be something else?
(Of course I'll disconnect the battery regardless when soldering because of airbags etc.)
Then I can swap the bases round and solder those infernal airbag connectors!