Gt 2.0 jts cut out & now wont start - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 26 Old 01-05-16 Thread Starter
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Gt 2.0 jts cut out & now wont start

Hi

My GT 2.0 jts decided to stop & now wont start.

On Wednesday of this week i had to have the car recovered because of a corroded shock absorber & so it had spent most of the week with the back end jacked in the air. On Saturday work was completed and car started and ran with no problems other than it needed a jump start. i went for a run on Saturday evening & it cut out & wouldn't re-start got the Green Flag recovery out & he managed to re-start it but only by spraying ethanol (brake cleaner) into the air intake. Anyway it ran for about 3-4 mins then cut out again & once again it was recovered home. The mechanic seem to think it was a fuel pump issue but you can hear the pump prime when you turn on the ignition, is it just possible that with the car being nose down for 3 days that it's just crap from the fuel tank in the fuel line or the filter. Bit of a ramble I'm afraid but any help appreciated.
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Ian
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Crank sensor. They fail when the car is warm which tricks the ECU into cutting the fuel, hence the car won't start without spraying some sort of hydrocarbon into the intake. Had the same thing on my GTV. Pretty easy fix and shouldn't cost an arm and a leg to get it replaced.
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(Post Link) post #3 of 26 Old 01-05-16 Thread Starter
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Hi
Thanks for the reply I take it that as it's been sat over night & is now cold it should start & then cut out when it reaches running temp.
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Yea that's usually what happens when the crank sensor craps itself.
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Thanks for the reply I take it that as it's been sat over night & is now cold it should start & then cut out when it reaches running temp.
That would be classic crank sensor failure if it starts again once cooled after half an hour.

But there have been quite a few cases with JTS having fuel pump failure with similar symptoms. Starting on Easystart (or similar) means there was a spark but not Petrol, which would move to fuel pump rather than crank sensor.
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(Post Link) post #6 of 26 Old 01-05-16 Thread Starter
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Hi
I've just tried it again & still no joy, i have a plug in obd reader & that initially gave a low fuel rail pressure error but that cleared it's self but now shows a P1670 pending undefined code. So that's about me with my limited knowledge stuffed.
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A forum search finds plenty of P1670 threads. Seems to be generally associated with fuel pressure.
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(Post Link) post #8 of 26 Old 03-05-16 Thread Starter
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Hi Guys
Well it would appear that it is the crank sensor that's faulty, managed to get the car started last night and all seemed well warmed up for about 10 mins so decided to take it for a run & about 1/4 mile later it stopped again.
Anyway question is, is it much of a job to change the sensor.
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(Post Link) post #9 of 26 Old 07-05-16 Thread Starter
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Well that was a disappointment new crank sensor fitted what a b@s%"*d of a job that was, car started with a bit of help from the easy start can (yipeee sorted) ran for 3 mins temp got to about 50 degs then stopped & wont start.
Next question is the fuel system pressurised & is it ok to disconnect the fuel pipe at the union next the fuel tank to make sure that the pump is working.
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Well that was a disappointment new crank sensor fitted what a b@s%"*d of a job that was, car started with a bit of help from the easy start can (yipeee sorted) ran for 3 mins temp got to about 50 degs then stopped & wont start.
Next question is the fuel system pressurised & is it ok to disconnect the fuel pipe at the union next the fuel tank to make sure that the pump is working.
Several posts above and previous threads were pointing you towards fuel pump.
Having to use easystart always pointed to a fuel problem rather than ignition.
The system is run up to pressure when you turn the ignition on.
Pressure after the high pressure pump on the camshaft is obviously extremely high.
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(Post Link) post #11 of 26 Old 26-05-16 Thread Starter
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Hi just an update on this, managed to get it to the local garage i use & they connected to their diagnostics & it was running for about 5 mins then cut out "as if it had just been turned off" mechanics words & the only fault that came up was unable to connect to cam sensor so they ordered a new cam sensor to check readings between old & new one & sure enough readings were different so they think it is this. Well to change the cam sensor it requires the cam belt to come off & when the belt comes off they prefer to change it & also the water pump I must admit that i don't know when this was last done so it probably needed doing but still it's a cost i could do without. Upshot is that at the moment it's in the workshop having the cam sensor done with no guaranty that this is the problem so will just have to wait & see.
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And did this solved the problem?
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Cam sensor faults don't usually stop the engine running.
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I thought cam sensor stopped engine. Crank sensor tells ecu engine timing but cam sensor say which plug to fire. Cam timing can be quite a bit out and car will still run but no signal means ECU doesn't know which cylinder is on compression stroke.

If belts are coming off and you don't have any history of previous change then it may as well be done now.
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A cam sensor fault usually just puts it into limp mode, I can't recall a previous case of a non runner because of a failed one.
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A cam sensor fault usually just puts it into limp mode, I can't recall a previous case of a non runner because of a failed one.
Sounds familiar, with a limit of about 3000RPM.

Still runs, but may take longer to start.

This one still sounds like a fuel pump problem.
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(Post Link) post #17 of 26 Old 12-07-16 Thread Starter
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Hi
An update on this, it's now been in the garage for 5 1/2 weeks & no further forward other than me being vastly out of pocket.
Cam sensor, cam belt & all the other bits that go with a belt change were changed (sensor was faulty i'm assured)
Still didn't work.
The inlet manifold had a crack in it that was changed (thank god for ebay) 1200 dealer 29 ebay
Still no go
Next was the high pressure fuel pump i was told it's not putting out enough pressure managed to get one off ebay & duly fitted that appears to be worse than the original one.
So garage (independent Alfa) seem to be stumped.

It's looking like a can of petrol & a match at the moment unless anyone has any more ideas..
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Hi
An update on this, it's now been in the garage for 5 1/2 weeks & no further forward other than me being vastly out of pocket.
Cam sensor, cam belt & all the other bits that go with a belt change were changed (sensor was faulty i'm assured)
Still didn't work.
The inlet manifold had a crack in it that was changed (thank god for ebay) 1200 dealer 29 ebay
Still no go
Next was the high pressure fuel pump i was told it's not putting out enough pressure managed to get one off ebay & duly fitted that appears to be worse than the original one.
So garage (independent Alfa) seem to be stumped.

It's looking like a can of petrol & a match at the moment unless anyone has any more ideas..

Has anyone looked at or replaced the fuel pump in the tank yet.......?
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(Post Link) post #19 of 26 Old 13-07-16 Thread Starter
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Hi David
They have told me that the tank pump is delivering fuel to the high pressure pump & that's not putting out as much pressure as it should to activated the injectors that's really as much as i can say whether that's right or not i don't know. It just seems to be lurching from one thing to another & all i know is that i dread how much it's going to cost.
Could you bypass the tank pump just by feeding fuel directly (say by gravity) into the high pressure pump & would that work.

Last edited by iand1957; 13-07-16 at 06:27. Reason: to add
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It looks like a new tank fuel pump sorted it (you were right all along David)

How do you think i stand now with the garage wanting to charge me 740 for doing a cam belt change including water pump balance belt etc. then telling me it needed a high pressure pump & inlet manifold which they assure me were all faulty but didn't solve the problem.
And it wasn't until they put in the fuel pump in that it miraculously it cured everything.
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Glad you got to the bottom of it..

TBH 740 doesn't sound to bad for a new belt and water pump with tensioner and idler and a new mani and in tank pump..and new cam and crank sensors..

On the bright side you now have 36k of trouble free motoring with fingers crossed only servicing required.

Frustrating though it must have been...!
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It looks like a new tank fuel pump sorted it (you were right all along David)
Well done. Shame you didn't do that three months ago...!!
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david, question,....


I am tempted by a GTV in wales that loses drive when going up hill, does that sound like a fuel delivery issue to you? i was thinking in tank fuel pump or swirlpot issue?

cheers

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