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(Post Link) post #1 of 38 Old 14-03-16 Thread Starter
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GT electrical woes

Got home after a journey of about 10 miles - while reversing onto my drive I lowered the driver's window - then it all started:

1 the radio stopped working
2 the driver's window would not go back up
3 I discovered that the passenger window now doesn't work as well (it still does the short drop on opening the door)
4 neither of the window control buttons give the "beep" when operated.
5 the boot will not open - neither with remote nor with the dashboard button (the petrol flap works though)
6 the odometer is flashing
7 there may be more that I've not noticed yet

So my first thought proxi alignment. Connect up laptop with MES using ELM 327 (I've been using this cable for 3 years now) and get message to the effect that there is no CAN data (aaargh). I noticed that the "Disconnected" message at the bottom left of the screen never changed.

When it was plugged in I saw that the rev counter was not working and multiple warning lights are still on. I recall having these symptoms when I was trying to use a wrong cable previously. So I then tried my other cable a KKL/VAG (I know this can't do a proxi alignment but I wanted to see if I could contact anything).

Despite using the correct settings and switch position this will not connect to the Engine ECU. At least it doesn't light up all the warning lights and the rev counter still works when it's plugged in. I've not tried the other ECU's yet.

So can anybody help? Have I blown up my body computer? Is there a fuse or a relay that could explain all these issues? (it did make me think a fuse had gone when it first went).
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Electrical gremlins often caused by water ingress. Check the body computer is dry.
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(Post Link) post #3 of 38 Old 14-03-16 Thread Starter
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thanks for the reply - the thing is I don't even know where it is.
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thanks for the reply - the thing is I don't even know where it is.
Neither do I! I have a 156.
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hi, the body computer is all part of the fuse box, so is where the EOBD cables plug in, so check for water there Duff battery maybe?

HTH
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Check with a fresh battery first, panic later.
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main ground cable can rust up and lose contact hence cause all this kind of problems,assuming that your battery is in good condition i would suggest to check,clean and reattach power and ground cables,
there's ground one just beside MAF sensor known for causing trouble for instance,
not too sure that it is body computer to be blamed in your case
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(Post Link) post #8 of 38 Old 16-03-16 Thread Starter
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Once more thanks all for your replies. I managed to find the body computer and remove it for inspection (I took some pictures when putting it back so I may post a "how to" when I've got my head 'round this.

Sadly the circuit boards were dry as a bone and no sign of heat, tracking damage or soldering issues - so no obvious culprit yet. While it was apart I removed, checked and cleaned every fuse in the board ( I'd done the same with the other two fuse boards yesterday) Once back together it was still the same.

The complete list of things not working (in case it helps one of you sleuths out there suggest a specific relay or fusible link or some such to check) are:

1,Diagnostics port (tried both a Vag/KKL and an ELM 327 that both worked perfectly before) cannot connect

2, Climate Control unit - no lights on any panel controls, fan not going

3, Windows - both sides not responding to door buttons or remote open close, no beep on pressing the buttons (I've never known that before). Surprisingly the "short drop" still works correctly on the passenger door - the driver's door has been tricky for a while now and I suspect is the main cause of my trouble.

4, Fuel Gauge - resting at zero with the amber fuel light on (no limited range warning though) also nothing from the info system about miles or fuel remaining either.

5, Boot lid doesn't open with the dash button or with the remote - the hazards do a single flash when the remote button is pressed as if it is working though. The petrol flap does work though.

6, Radio completely dead no lights (it normally illuminated with the ignition on as a clock if switched off, it's an aftermarket one fitted with a Connects2 CTSAR1.2 cable and the switched live supplied by the cigar lighter.

7, The cigar lighter works (ouch) but its light doesn't - even when headlights are on - the instrument panel lights are working though.

Everything else works just fine - it drives as good as ever, no warnings on the dash. All the driving lights and indicators are fine. I tried the ASR button on the console and the "ASR OFF" warning operates correctly and goes out when pressed again. Temperature gauge works, speedo and rev counter also. Reversing sensor - working.

I'm hoping someone can help shine some light on this. 'cos just now I'm clueless
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Hi,

there are some fuses, relays and connectors compartment in front of the battery, any sign of problems in there, ensure all the fuses are intact, clean and get a spare relay and try swapping them out one by one. Relays are not GT specific and can be got cheaply from a scrap yard. Also check the connections to the battery are tight, my last two Alfas have loose -ve connectors and have had to be assisted in getting nice and tight.

It does sound like several circuits are down so a maxi fuse, relay or a big earth would be by where to look if the battery is OK.

HTH
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(Post Link) post #10 of 38 Old 16-03-16 Thread Starter
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Good call purple145. I was starting to think that way myself - I already checked out all the "normal" fuses and found no problem.

Even though the Diagnostics port is not working - I'm less and less thinking that the body computer has died - I suspect it controls more devices than the ones I've lost use of. Does anbody know the full list, or where I can find it?

I looked up a video on You Tube on how to test relays with a spare car battery and a multimeter. I've got both of those - so that's my task for tomorrow, there's quite a few of them knocking about on the vehicle and they're all shapes, sizes and colours; I'd be wary of switching them for ones with different values 'cos I don't know if I could do some damage that way.

I'm also going to check out "e Learn" for wiring diagrams to see if any of the affected components feed into the same place somewhere. I'm certainly no electrician - but; just maybe; something will present itself.

But mostly I'm hoping somebody will say "Oh its the blah blah connector to the doo wop interface that needs to be reconfigured" or something similar.

Still looking for more help - but thanks for all so far.
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because so much has been affected it should in theory make it something like a maxi fuse or relay that controls many circuits, and in theory easier to find........
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Alternator voltage regulator . check the charge rate i had the same problem .
all sorted after i changed the regulator.

good luck
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(Post Link) post #13 of 38 Old 17-03-16 Thread Starter
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because so much has been affected it should in theory make it something like a maxi fuse or relay that controls many circuits, and in theory easier to find........
You would think so - but I'm having a 'mare wit this. None of the maxi fuses look to be a a problem - the earths I've managed to locate seem fine,

Mirlock said;
"Alternator voltage regulator . check the charge rate i had the same problem .
all sorted after i changed the regulator."

The alternator is charging at 14.12volts that sounds OK to me.

While trying to find relevant info in eLearn I found this:

"The following nodes are connected to the Body Computer M1 via the B-CAN:
 climate control sytem control unit M70;
 instrument panel E50;
 radio or built-in radio-telephone-navigator P20 ;
 controls unit on the driver''s door H44 ."

Other stuff (ABS, Steering sensor, engine management) all of which are working go throught the C-CAN.

That sounds like pretty much a list of most of the affected stuff - so the Body Control Module really has to stay near the top of the list of suspects.

But how do I isolate and test or work on the B-CAN? I can see what it does - but I don't really understand what it is!. Is it connected to the Body Computer? Is it part of the Body Computer? Does it exist physically or is it a "software thing" that organises those modules? If anyone can help me to understand this I'd be very thankful,
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Sorry to jump in, I think I have a similar issue, my V6GT driver's side window has stopped working, after throwing much money at diagnostics (eliminated switch, relay, window ecu etc), it would appear to be the body computer / bcm. The specialist it is with at the moment is sceptical about exchange units such as:ALFA ROMEO GT 3.2 V6 ECU (BODY CONTROL) - Part No: 501862300013 / NBC947.51, and also told me they will still need to charge me half an hour for fitting and an hour reprogramming etc. I read else where these are now just "plug and play", can anyone advise? how DIY is it to take out send and plug in? Or am I better off saving up and bite the bullet and take it to an Alfa dealer?
I see Alfatuner also offers a similar service, do they supply and fit or repair and return sent in units only. Any help appreciated, I can live with a non functioning window but if it leads to other electrical gremlins I may have to take action soon.
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(Post Link) post #15 of 38 Old 18-03-16 Thread Starter
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Sorry to jump in, I think I have a similar issue, my V6GT driver's side window has stopped working, after throwing much money at diagnostics (eliminated switch, relay, window ecu etc), it would appear to be the body computer / bcm. The specialist it is with at the moment is sceptical about exchange units such as:ALFA ROMEO GT 3.2 V6 ECU (BODY CONTROL) - Part No: 501862300013 / NBC947.51, and also told me they will still need to charge me half an hour for fitting and an hour reprogramming etc. I read else where these are now just "plug and play", can anyone advise? how DIY is it to take out send and plug in? Or am I better off saving up and bite the bullet and take it to an Alfa dealer?
I see Alfatuner also offers a similar service, do they supply and fit or repair and return sent in units only. Any help appreciated, I can live with a non functioning window but if it leads to other electrical gremlins I may have to take action soon.
I just spotted your posting on the "Miracle Cure" thread and replied to it there, As I understand it repair is the best option in reality.

Removal of the unit is fairly straightforward and doesn't require anything more than a screwdriver and a couple of alan keys and maybe a torch and pretty strong fingers - I took some photos when I did it and will post a "how to" soon. Having done it a couple of times now it's become just a 10 minute job.

I didn't know Alfatuner did that - I'd be interested to hear from him too about his service.

The timing of my BCM failure makes me suspect that it was getting the driver's window working again that finally put paid to it. Fortunately I was able to return and get a refund for the door switch I'd just ordered - priorities change don't they? - that should go some way towards getting the BCM fixed.
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Hi Jonb
Thanks for the quick response, look forward to seeing some pictures before I attempt it.
Out of interest, who did you use to repair your bcm? and am I right that once repaired it will just plug straight back in without any reprogramming required?

Cheers
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(Post Link) post #17 of 38 Old 18-03-16 Thread Starter
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I've not got it done yet. Couple of things - although I'm more and more convinced it must be the BCM - I still haven't quite ruled out all other possibilities. And I'm still in the process comparing estimates and considering the different repairers, it is only a few days since it packed in and the car is still driveable.

On your second point - yes - that is the whole point of a repair. The module still keeps its original programming to match your vehicle and should just need to be plugged back in.
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I have similar problems with my JTS

Did you resolve yours?
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(Post Link) post #19 of 38 Old 06-04-16 Thread Starter
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No - no further along really - I've found a couple of places that could try to fix the BCM - but I worry that it might come back worse.

I've managed to trick up some work arounds so I can get in the boot and use the driver's window; I use my phone with a bluetooth speaker for music; and a fan for demisting plugged into the cigar lighter. It's far from satisfactory but it will get me by until I feel forced to bite the bullet and risk a repair. I drive so much less nowadays anyway.

At least it's all safe and legal - I can't see why it would fail an MOT even.
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It all points to the body computer:

I had similar problems, albeit not all the same. I borrowed a body computer, and plugged it in. All the problems vanished. I then went back and bought the computer, and the ECU with the ignition barrel. Changed the lot over, and no problems since (touch wood)

Borrow one first. Before you go shelling out
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(Post Link) post #21 of 38 Old 07-04-16 Thread Starter
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thanks for the input pendragonfalls - I more and more think it must be that too. Who did you borrow the BCM from? I suppose I'll have to look out for a somebody breaking one.
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thanks for the input pendragonfalls - I more and more think it must be that too. Who did you borrow the BCM from? I suppose I'll have to look out for a somebody breaking one.
Exactly what I did. I found a breaker, borrowed the BCM to test on my GT. Then went back and bought the whole lot.

In theory though, find someone local with a GT and borrow theirs, it won't do it any harm to be plugged into your car. If the electrical gremlms disappear, then you know yours is fubar. Good luck
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(Post Link) post #23 of 38 Old 08-04-16 Thread Starter
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Again thanks pengragon - very helpful.

Where exactly is this ECU on the car? Is it hard to remove?

Does the alarm and central locking still work with the original fob? Do you now have a different key for the ignition?

And what was the cost?
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ECU is on the passengers side, on top of the front wing. Easy to remove. Two connectors.

I used the original key and the donor key surround. When i say me, I mean my mech, he's a very clever bloke. You have to swap out the RF ring around the ignition barrel, to get the key to work properly.

I think the whole lot cost me 300 (240), and that was supplied, and fitted.

Had no troubles since... Touch wood (again)
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(Post Link) post #25 of 38 Old 09-04-16 Thread Starter
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Thanks yet again pendragonfalls. It's starting to look a lot more do-able and less risky than I feared.

A quick look on ebay and I found this: *

I know these are from a diesel so no good for my vehicle - but are they the equivalent parts that (plus the Body Computer, of course) that you fitted?

And is that all that is needed - I'm sorry to keep labouring the point - but I feared I would need more parts (immobiliser, locks, keys and the like to get back to where it was).
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