GT electrical woes - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Thanks yet again pendragonfalls. It's starting to look a lot more do-able and less risky than I feared.

A quick look on ebay and I found this: *

I know these are from a diesel so no good for my vehicle - but are they the equivalent parts that (plus the Body Computer, of course) that you fitted?

And is that all that is needed - I'm sorry to keep labouring the point - but I feared I would need more parts (immobiliser, locks, keys and the like to get back to where it was).
HI there
Reading this with interest. The boot release stopped today, that the windows, the temp gauge. No sure how we can get hold of a loaner BCM but happy to pool costs / time etc to get a solution for all.
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HI there
Reading this with interest. The boot release stopped today, that the windows, the temp gauge. No sure how we can get hold of a loaner BCM but happy to pool costs / time etc to get a solution for all.
There's a petrol GT being broken on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Breaking-a...kAAOSwGotWqpl8
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There's a petrol GT being broken on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Breaking-a...kAAOSwGotWqpl8
Well I just spotted a breaker on ebay selling the necessary kit: fuse box with BCM; Engine management ECU; and ignition lock with key and aerial. The car they're off is the same age and spec. as mine and it's less than 30 miles from where I live to go and collect it. As it was only 149.00 I bought it. Hope to collect it all tomorrow.

Will update when more info available.
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Yep. those bits plus the actual body computer. Must be from the same engine as yours though.

Its a pretty straight forward job. (I watched my mech do it.....lol)

Disconnect the battery, swap the ECU and body computer. Change over the RF transmitter on the ignition barrel, then swap the innards of the ignition key over. That lets you retain your original key.

I had to get my spare key reprogrammed though. Cost me 60 IIRC, but it was worth it.

Some of the electrical gremlins that I had were;
The courtesy light had a mind of its own, and would go on and off only when it felt like it.
I was getting very strange errors coming up on the info centre, like 'water in fuel' and 'glow plug' errors (mines a JTS) go figure.

I think that was all there was to it. No major dramas, and mines been fine ever since.

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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Well I've made a fair bit of progress. got the kit this morning. First I fitted just "new" the BCM with the fuse box as a trial and all the stuff that wasn't working before now is - whoopee!!!

I knew it wouldn't start like that; but now encouraged to continue I fitted the engine management ECU and the aerial ring from the spare switch, it wouldn't start "Immobilisation Failure". Bit of panic and disappointment set in. Then realised I also had to change the entire ignition key block. So I tried to do that. Without removing the original lock unit I've attached the wiring harnesses to the "new" key unit and aerial ring to try it out; using the new key in the "new" lock I can now start the car (big result).

Obviously I won't put it back together like that but I can't figure out how to remove the original ignition block. It's secured with "headless bolts" "eLearn" says to remove them with a drift - is that right just whack them?

My old keys now no longer operate remotely; the "new" one does but obviously it will be the wrong shape for manual locking. I think that if I swap the lock barrel (it comes out fairly easily) to keep the old key operating the ignition - then it won't operate the remote locking and I would guess wouldn't prevent the "Immobilisation Failure".

What am I doing wrong?
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You've got me stumped..!

IIRC my ignition barrel wasn't swapped over, just RF transmitter. Then the blade from my old key was swapped with the new key, and everything was working fine.

I think that's all that was done

Try that..
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I'm really grateful for your continuing input on this pendragonfalls - without all your info I think I'd still be scratching my head and wondering if it really was the BCM that was my trouble - never mind having fixed the problem - which is where I am. Yes it's all fixed and working great!!!

I tried and tried to figure out some method of removing the rear section of the ignition barrel (where the electrical connections are and where I suppose the coded bits are) - but although it looked like a separate-able component I never could get it apart. And I tried just swapping the aerial rings over but that didn't work. So it was "plan B" remove the pesky headless bolts and swap the entire unit. As anybody who has done this kind of thing knows, slackening bolts with a cold chisel and hammer can be a pain - and so it was; on the first bolt anyway. the second one was easier, despite being harder to get at. Once these were off the rest was dead easy. I hacksawed slots into the headless bolts and re-used them for refitting. Plug it all in and BYU.

Switching the key blades over (from the "old" fob to the "new") wasn't too difficult (youtube has helpful video on that) nor was switching the lock mechanisms in the ignition barrels. So all-in-all not too arduous a task (if you have a bit of luck with the headless bolts).

The rain is too heavy now for me to finish refitting all the dash trim but all the "real" work is complete.

Can I get the spare key (from the original lock - I had two with my car when I bought it) recoded to the new one? It's got the right blade but is programmed to the redundant ECU set. It would be convenient to have a spare again.
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Brilliant news. Glad you got it all sorted.

As for the spare key. I got mine done by 'lock doctor' here in Ireland. There must be something similar where you are.
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Disaster strikes, it's failed again. AFAIK I'm the first person to have two Body Computers, on the same vehicle, fail in less than 6 months. GRRR It's exactly like before. All the same items are not working as the last time. And everything that did work then is working now.

Unless I can get someone to repair the Body Computers (I'll need to have a permanent spare one available it seems) at a reasonable cost then it's pretty much looking like the end of the road for "Bert 2" (my name for the car).

Clearly there's somrthing pretty fundamentally wrong with my CAN wiring, or nodes, or something - I can't even think of a way to address the issue. One of the things I know won't be working is the diagnostics port.

If anybody out there can think of anything I'd be eternally grateful.
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Disaster strikes, it's failed again. AFAIK I'm the first person to have two Body Computers, on the same vehicle, fail in less than 6 months. GRRR It's exactly like before. All the same items are not working as the last time. And everything that did work then is working now.

Unless I can get someone to repair the Body Computers (I'll need to have a permanent spare one available it seems) at a reasonable cost then it's pretty much looking like the end of the road for "Bert 2" (my name for the car).

Clearly there's somrthing pretty fundamentally wrong with my CAN wiring, or nodes, or something - I can't even think of a way to address the issue. One of the things I know won't be working is the diagnostics port.

If anybody out there can think of anything I'd be eternally grateful.
'Kin'ell..! You're having a right ol'time of it

Has to be something specific to both ECU's.. Dodgy connection where they meet the bulkhead maybe..? I'd go poking around there with your multimeter, and see if anything shows up.
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I eventually managed to find someone who can work on these sorts of electronics. He was able to copy my original body computer data to another one and I fitted the "clone" back into the car. It was with the "foreign" ECU set so obviously I wouldn't be able to start the engine - but I'd be able to see if he'd fixed the "body computer issue". Disappointingly it was still the same; all the same systems not working. He assured me there was no way he could have transferred the fault along with the code (different memories), so we were stumped (not for the first time).

He is continuing his investigation of my original body computer (fitting it to a Punto to see what it does).

It having now become clear that I'm not going to get a solution soon, I started figuring out ways to get stuff working without the body computer - so I could have some sort of civilised existence in the GT. I've got the driver's door window wired via a sprung "dpdt" switch taking a live from the fuse box (piggyback) and an earth in the door frame (hinge bolt) it works. So I figured a similar fix should be do-able for the radio. I have an aftermarket "Pioneer" head unit which I fitted just after Christmas. On which I'd also got the steering wheel controls working.

I figured if I took a permanent live from the fusebox (the switched live is already coming from the cigar lighter so is working anyway) I might be able to get the radio going. Well I did this and it worked. Yippee working radio. Now. I thought, let me look at the heater fan, see if I can get that going in a similar way. To my absolute amazement there was no need - everything: windows, heater, boot lock, mirror controls etc. had come back and is now working normally.

I haven't any idea why this is so, and I can't decide if I should be happy with myself to have got it working, or angry with myself for messing it up in the first place. Because it has now become clear to me that this was a self-inflicted wound.

Somehow, it seems the combination of after market radio plus CTSAR001.2 steering control interface wired up with the switched live from the cigar lighter and permanent live from the original harness makes the body computer go to sleep ( after a couple of months). Replacing the body computer with another one gives a reprieve for a couple of months when that one falls over too. Wiring it with both electrical supplies ( switched and permanent) from outside the canbus system seems to be OK though (although I may just have discovered another way to get a two month reprieve ).

Moral seems to be if you want steering wheel controls on your GT don't use the CTSAR001.x (whatever the vendor tells you) use the CTSAR003.x then you don't need to source an extra switched live and it's all coming via the canbus.
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Good skills investigating this a garage would soon lose patience. Thanks for sharing. So glad the 156 has no CANBUS.
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Good skills investigating this a garage would soon lose patience. Thanks for sharing. So glad the 156 has no CANBUS.
Too true - any kind of professional investigation would have cost way more than the car's current market value (it's still worth much more than that to me though).
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