Which 147? - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Just remember that most will be due, or overdue, a cambelt. So plan for that.
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My son's 1.6 on a similar commute did about 28 - 29 mpg. His 2.0 does 26 - 28mpg.

The 1.6 is underpowered for the weight (full leather) of the car and has to be thrashed to be enjoyed. If you don't get open road that isn't such a problem.

A diesel will clog up on this type of driving but will probably still give better mpg than the petrol cars.

My take on general 147 buying advice:-

Cam belt change is every 36,000 miles or 3 year which ever comes first.

Most of these engines use oil. Don't let that worry you but check level with every tank of petrol until you know how much yours is using. It can be 1litre every thousand miles.

If it has a short clatter on start up (sounding like a diesel or valve clearances being taken up) that is the variator (changes the valve timing with revs) and while it can sound bad it can wait until the next cam belt change at an extra £100.

I would recommend avoiding anything that has had a broken cam belt and then been repaired. There can be other damage that takes a few thousand mikes to show itself and gets very expensive.

Drive it over bumps and listen for front suspension noises: a squeak is top wishbones, a clunk is probably bottom wishbones and a clunk that sounds or feels like it is under your feet is anti-roll bar bushes. These are common wear items on the 156 / 147 / GT that all use the same suspension and all need replacing eventually. If you are really lucky a clunk might be anti-roll bar drop-links and they are really easy to replace but donít normally wear out.

If you do need front suspension parts do NOT buy cheap eBay parts as you will be changing again in 6 months or less.

Check the floorpan and sills for rust. Some rust very badly and some hardly rust at all.

Check that you have 2 keys as a replacement is about £300 and despite sellers on eBay there is no cheap replacement; what is sold there does not work with these cars.

If the windows don't go up and down don't let the seller tell you it is the push buttons and easy fix. It won't be that; it is still a fairly easy fix but needs new mechanisms in the doors as they eventually seize up. If it really was an easy fix the seller would have done it wouldnít they?

If the remote locking doesn't work don't let the seller tell you it is the battery in the key; it won't be that but probably the aerial for the remote locking receiver that is behind the dash and that is fairly easy to fix but possibly something more expensive.

Airbag light can often be on but that is usually the connector under the driver or passenger seat and an easy fix. Occasionally it can be something a little more tricky but lots of threads here and people who will help you resolve any error lights.

Have a close look at the very inside edge of the front tyres as, like a lot of front wheel drive cars, they can wear the inside edge while the rest of the tyre looks good.

Check that the air con works and gets properly cold. Lots of older cars with failed aircon that needs more than just a regass to fix.
Check that the heater control dash lights all work. Occasional failures and can be a pain to fix.
Check that the remote boot lock works from the key and inside the car. If itís not working it is usually a failed driver side switch unit. This unit contains a small ecu and controls the central locking for the whole car. Prices vary from £10 to £50 for a second hand unit. They are really easy to fit provided you spot and remove the small cross head screw that is beneath the switch controls. Lots of people miss this screw and destroy the switches trying to lever them out. Yes one of those people is me!
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