Clutch/Flywheel replacement guide and needed tools/hardware - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 8 Old 05-01-16 Thread Starter
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Clutch/Flywheel replacement guide and needed tools/hardware

Hi All,

I'm new to this forum since I'm a relatively new alfa owner (9 months). My 2008 147 JTDm (8V, 120HP) broke down on me in Germany (8 hours away from home). It started off with difficult launches and difficult gear changes until I couldn't get it into any gear with the engine running (no problem changing gears when the car was off). There was some clutch pressure but not as much as a few days before. Either way, the car was brought to an alfa dealer who claimed that the clutch (not hydraulic system) and flywheel may need to be changed for a whopping 2400 euro (both combined, just the clutch is 1200).

Luckily my insurance covers the transport of my car to a local mechanic (I'm still trying to find one). The transport takes 3-4 weeks so I have plenty of time to figure out what to do. I'm also considering doing the job myself but I want to make sure I have as much as possible ready for the job. I have the following tools:

- small set of spanners ranging from 8-19 mm
- Ratchet set
- Small hammer
- Car lift (CERN car club)
- Compressor and impact wrench (CERN car club)

I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have done many jobs on 1987-1993 Saab 900's (clutch, power steering rack, head gasket, etc). My lack of tools comes from moving across an ocean for a temporary position.

My questions to you are:

- Is there a guide somewhere (I tried searching, and got some nice pics but not much of a description) that can give me any odd size wrenches (say a 23 mm or something). Knowing the sizes for bolts that may break would also really be helpful because I can only request the car lift for a limited time. I loved my Bentley manual for the saab but I can't find anything like it for the 147. There was this windows based thing that I never got to work (on my linux or osx boxes)...

- Does anybody know of any independent alfa mechanics near Geneva, preferably on the French side?

Apologies for the long post and thanks in advance.
muhawalter is offline  
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I did mine (at home) late last year. I bought; Original Alfa DMF, clutch kit, slave cylinder from Shop4parts for less than 500./

I had similar symptoms with bonus excessive vibration when operating the clutch. Turned out my release bearing had broken/snapped and was only supported on one side of the fork (hence vibration). The clutch and DMF were okay (120K miles) however I replaced it all as I was in there and prefer to replace items preventively and as 'complete services'. Besides, the labor alone would be worth more than the parts.

You will need more tools, ie. 36mm thin walled socket for the CV/hub nut, there are 22/23/24 nuts under there also, good circlip pliers, ball joint splitter, wooden dowel (etc) to centre align clutch plate


Wheels and half shafts out, both sides (drain box first!); 36mm, 13mm
Undo PS/Aircon pipes clip/bolted to RH subframe: 7mm?
Remove front exhaust sections: 13mm
Remove or just lower centre tunnel, you need it low at front to remove subframe bolts: 15 & 13mm
Undo Rear engine/gearbox to subframe mount (tight): lots
Subframe out (with lower wishbones, makes assembly easier later): lots
Battery and support frame out: 10mm
Slave cylinder removed from g/box (circlip pliers, I didn't need to disturb my hydraulics)
Braided gearbox ground strap off: 13mm?
Pop off gearbox cables from selector linkages on top gearbox (tight)
Remove starter motor: 13mm
Bellhousing bolts/nuts out: 17 or 19mm

I supported the engine with a crane from above, allowing me full clearance underneath to remove the box

Remove gearbox mount
Slide box off, don't let it hang on the input shaft, support if necessary.. It's heavy!

Clutch release bearing clips into the pressure plate tangs, needs to either pop off or slide out of clutch fork
Pressure plate is bolted to DMF with M7 RIBE bolts
DMF to crankshaft bolts (21mm) may need impact wrench

Check crank seal behind DMF for leaks/weeping (do you really want to do this again)

When refitting I supported the engine from underneath and used the engine crane to take weight of the g'box so I could wiggle it back on.

Took a few days
Another set of hands are invaluable
If you can afford to get it done, get it done
It's not complicated, any competent mechanic could do it.

I have a few pics in here >>

03 1.9JTD8v Sportwagon +GTA teledials for the win!!

Last edited by craig_m67; 05-01-16 at 11:20.
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Not a bad write up, at all Craig_m67!
The only thing I would add is to clean and grease the clutch release arm and it's bushes, (they are plastic), makes the clutch action smoother for longer!
Muhawalter, from your description, that sounds like air in the hydraulic system or a leak?
I would check for leaks and bleed it first, just in case. That's far easier and cheaper than clutch change!
Hopefully you won't have to change the clutch, but if you do, it is diy-able, and a lift and transmission jacks (and an extra pair of hands) help a lot!
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Try looking on the download sites for a copy of elearn for the 147 as it will cover the complete procedure for the clutch replacement. I managed to download a copy for the 156 models and its very useful.

I've done the gearbox in/out with the subframe still in makes things a bit easier (less to take off) but its a 2 man job to get the box back in due to some wiggling required.

I'd probably drop the subframe if doing it again, not to make it easier but to clean the rust and make sure the subframe is still in one piece and not holed or paper thin anywhere!!
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(Post Link) post #5 of 8 Old 06-01-16 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. It looks like I'll bite the bullet and pay for a mechanic to do it. The DMF makes this a crazy expensive repair. All the quotes around me have been for 2000 euro (or the equivalent in CHF) which is not what I expected for a clutch (I also didn't expect it to go after 85K miles).

As for elearn, I think I tried it but in the end I didn't get it to work on my mac. No PDFs, Bentley manuals, or even wonderful shop manuals?

I'll guess I'll save a bunch of money on the next fix: the timing belt/waterpump is due for a change at ~85K miles (this would be the second change).
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I'd be very surprised if the DMF has failed at 85K. Mine was still fine, no ticks, noises, looseness at 120K.

Most mechanics will want to replace it all so there is no comeback later, good business sense from a warranty or return basis. It's why I replaced mine, just in case, as I don't want to do all that again. There'd be less than ten minutes more additional labour involved in removing and fitting a new DMF for a competent workshop if everything else is removed.
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Just to add a little something, the 36mm socket needed to undo the hub nuts need to be a thin walled socket, i turned mine down myself but i believe they can be bought.

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Do that in an afternoon, no air tools! But a blow torch, gear oil, and a set of Ribe drives would be nice? I usually put my own grease in the release bears, factory grease can be hit or miss I find. Glad it worked out for you.
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