Quite pleased with the result really – took about 3 hours in total due to some minor complications.
I meant to take some photos, but got a bit carried away on the day so forgot to – sorry.
Anyway, I’ll go through what I did …
First of all the speakers – Hertz DSK 165.3 (£56). The crossovers came ‘hardwired’ (moulded in) with two wires from each output – no connectors etc, so I soldered a pair of speaker adaptors (PC2-800 - £1.49) to the input, then crimped spade connectors to the woofer wires (and a drop of solder to keep them in place) and to the tweeter wires, and the wires coming from the tweeters … I still don’t understand why they didn’t provide connectors to make life easier!
One quick tip - make sure your tweeter grille fits back over the new tweeter before you fix it in place in the holder - my driver's side was fine, but I have to un-attach and re-do the passenger side tweeter as it didn't fit flush.
Took the door card off and removed most of the membrane – I was careful with it as I was planning on putting it back in place after I’d finished the work. I then removed the old speakers, tucked the wire away from the old woofers, and free’d up the tweeter wires by cutting away the small nylon tie holding them in place.
I decided to use the speaker wire which goes to the tweeter to connect the new speakers, as it fits the speaker adaptor I’d soldered on, and on closer inspection it looks like there’s four wires going to the tweeter – two for the tweeter, then two piggy backing down to the woofer. Best to go from as close to the source as possible IMO.
Now, for the sound deadening. I bought a bulk pack of Silent Coat 2mm – essentially a pack of 20 sheets. These are the larger sheets - roughly 380x250mm. It cost around £45 from eBay (Sound Deadening Shop).
The idea of this is to deaden vibrations, not to soundproof the doors. I used around three sheets for the each of the outer skins of the doors, and around three on each inner skin.
For the outer skin (closest to the exterior) I cut the sheets in half, and laid them across the entire panel. I used my hands to press the sheets down firmly (cutting my fingers in the process) – didn’t find that I needed a roller at all.
I then used thinner strips below the bar in the door (you’ll see what I mean) and covered a large part of the surface area.
Really easy to apply and work with – all you need really is a good sharp Stanley knife and no fear of cutting your fingers (cut mine a lot on the aluminium). Also found it easier to hold the strips up and cut down them rather than attempt to cut them on the floor.
Next I cut some small strips of the silent coat, and stuck them around where the speaker rings (SAK-1007 - £9.99) are going to sit.
I used a double sided tape patch supplied with the tweeter to stick it to the door panel just to the left and below the inner release handle – If you hold the door card up you’ll see there’s an enormous amount of free space there. Ran the woofer speakers through the inside of the door (could be done externally) to where the woofers are going to sit.
Screwed the speaker rings into place with the screws I took out of the speakers, and started adding patches of silent coat to the door. The most important thing here is to cover all the service holes. I applied the deadening in patches rather than huge areas, as I believe you only need about a 50% coverage to be effective. I think I covered about 60-70% in the end which was proably overkill.
Attached the connectors to the woofer, then fitted it in place with the screws provided – it needed to be rotated 90 degrees to fit in properly. Then connected the input connectors, the tweeters, the all important window switch and tested the speakers and window movement. All ok!
Disconnected the tweeters, moved the input connectors out the way, and put the door card on, pulling the tweeter connection wires out of the hole where the handle surround sits.
Connected the new tweeter up again and voila! All done! Looks 100% OEM.
First impressions of the speakers were good, though I know they’re going to need some time to bed in. They already sound much better than the original cardboard cone rubbish.
I should think they’ll sound even better with a better head unit, I’ve got a Sony MEX-N6001BD to fit shortly when I’ve bought the steering adaptor (CTSAR003.2 - £40), I took the opportunity to run the cables for the mic and the DAB aerial down the A-Pillars while I was at it … and added a few meaty strips of silent coat to the bare metal on the pillars.
As I was already cut and dirty, I decided in my infinite wisdom to deaden the boot lid too. Has worked a treat as knocking on the doors and the boot lid now has a deep thud rather than a tinny ping! Not sure if there's any real benefit, but I had sheets spare.
Next job : rear speakers having the same treatment in the new year. I have 5 sheets of Silent Coat left which looking at the size of the panels might not be enough!
Any questions etc, please fire away!
Last edited by stuart83; 02-11-15 at 12:33.