When I had window troubles I finally traced the fault to the connector block to the window ecu. The connector from the switch to the ecu (the white socket in the ecu with twelve pins) has a permanent live input from the switch (so the windows can be operated without the ignition) in this permanently "on" circuit the earth pin/socket became fouled with brown rust, because this corrosion was deep inside a tiny socket it was virtually impossible to spot it. I believe the design of this set up means that corrosion inside that pin socket is almost inevitable and is the cause of many intermittent or erratic faults with the system.
Since I sorted mine I've never had a problem and never needed to reset the windows.
How did you sort that? Just spraying contact cleaner?
Last night the drivers window stuck down. I got out of the car (ignition key in hand), closed the door and the window went up.
Got back in, everything seemed fine for a couple of attempts then stopped down again.
Same thing, out of car, close door, window goes up.
I sprayed WD40 down the guides, it then worked several times before staying down again - but this time didn't go up when door closed.
After a bit of thought I slammed the door a couple of times and hey presto everything works fine !
So it could be too much friction in the guides as suggested but is starting to 'feel' like a connection problem that is fixed when door is open / closed.
It could even be that the battery disconnect thing was only working because I had to open / close the door to do it !
So tell me how you sorted your poor connection, it may well be the same thing.